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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Avoca Victoria
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    Posts
    10,501

    Default Smoothing Plane question

    G'day,
    I had my first play with a smoothing plane yesterday.....fun......no ear muffs required...very pleasurable.
    I have a Bailey's No 3 which is a long term refurbishment WIP, and I know nothing about the set-up etc except what I can glean from the forum. So in my local hardware I find a smoothing plane already without rust that I could use to find out how they work.
    I Paid $14:95 for a No 4 Medallist Smoothing Plane ( Made in China by Illegal Mexican Immigrants smuggled across the North Korean Border) Bad!!!!
    But using notes from the forum, I set it up as well as I could and it takes off curly bits of wood. Lovely!
    Then it started to play up a bit, and I noticed some slivers of wood stuck between the back of the blade and the body of the plane.
    The question:
    Should I move the blade back towards the rear of the body aperture??
    Total Plane novice.....(please do not quote this as a Darkside Conversion)

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
    Posts
    544

    Default Cheap planes

    Watson, If you are a machinest/toolmaker you could with a lot of work make a half decent plane out of the medalist.

    My advice is to buy a decent plane (lie nielson, veratis,stanley etc) or buy The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee.

    Chapter 7 gives teriffic advise on tuning a plane.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Avoca Victoria
    Age
    81
    Posts
    10,501

    Default

    Thanks Rats,
    I will probably send the thing to scrap heaven, once I work out what all the knobs do.
    But until I get the Bailey fixed up, this is the only assembled plane I have, and I'm really chuffed that I got it to work at all!
    Thanks for the book advice....I'll have a look at it ( as though I need another book He Hee)
    The finish on the wood I was mucking about with was great for a bit of manual "swish swish!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    .
    Posts
    10,482

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by watson View Post
    Should I move the blade back towards the rear of the body aperture??
    If you do the mouth of the plane will open up an not cut correctly.

    Al, Also not a darksider.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Avoca Victoria
    Age
    81
    Posts
    10,501

    Default

    Thanks AL,
    Does that mean I should have less of an opening, (in other words move the blade closer to the front of the slot) and raise the blade a little??
    I've searched the forum posts, but I think I'm being too specific in my search.
    I was having real amounts of fun until it clogged up too!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by watson View Post
    Then it started to play up a bit, and I noticed some slivers of wood stuck between the back of the blade and the body of the plane.
    Are you sure the slivers were behind the blade and not the lever cap? Most unusual to get what you described.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Default

    From what Ive read a small plane mouth is ideal in getting fine shavings, all the gooder planes come with an adjustable mouth.

    Al

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Avoca Victoria
    Age
    81
    Posts
    10,501

    Default

    G'day Groggy,
    I'll take a photo in the cold light of day with the stuff still stuck there. That may explain it better.
    For AL,
    As for the adjustable mouth.......I bet that's what those two screws are for.
    Told you I was a complete plane novice.
    Sorry to be such a nerd, but the 1/2 hour it cut well were very pleasing and almost bloody peaceful........hope she doesn't find out about it!!
    Will post a photo of what I mean in the AM

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