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2nd August 2021, 01:48 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Fairly large set of 26c3 (White steel equivalent) chisels
A planemaker here in the states (not steve voigt and not larry williams) asked if I would make them chisels - to be used with a wooden handle and no ferrule. i like the idea of making tools that will be used more than making tools that will be "had" without being used. So I agreed. I thought he might like 3 or 4. He asked for a set of 8 (!).
If I were a real maker, this would be no big deal, but each of these is hammered freehand and made entirely by eye after forging with a belt grinder and a pair of calipers. That's it. The pattern for each toward the tang is just a rough trace from anything nearby and then the rest is by eye.
I was glad to make them, though.
They are made of a steel that's got a spec similar in pureness to white steel (the maker publishes the results of each batch, and despite their spec, they're actually very easily under the purity specs for hitachi white steel), and the carbon level is between white 1 and white 2. You might think that this would make them brittle if they're solid steel, which I suppose it could if they were 67 hardness, but I temper them back some, and they are full hardness only up to an inch or so short of the bolster, so they can be adjusted for straightness when the handles is on and nothing will break. They're probably 62 or 63 hardness, but it really doesn't matter what hardness they are as I test them to make sure they have good edge strength without chippiness. I know everyone likes hardness numbers - I have to guess based on how they respond on a stone. They're hard (harder than I probably like to use day to day for most things, but I'm always happy to tell someone what temperature to set the kitchen oven (checked by a thermometer, of course) to bring them back a click or two.
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2nd August 2021 01:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd August 2021, 01:50 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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no clue what went wrong with the attachments. The .jpg links are the actual working links.
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8th August 2021, 09:21 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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they look nicely made.
Whats your process for forming the shoulder?
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8th August 2021, 10:44 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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8th August 2021, 11:36 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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umm, the shoulder near the tang, to go up against the handle (not the bevels).
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9th August 2021, 06:27 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Ahh...it starts as a separate piece of steel with a hole that's heated and driven onto the tang. After that, it's heated with a brazing torch to high temperature at the junction and forge welded, then ground to rough shape and facets filed like the three in this picture. The bolster steel is mild 1018 steel.
20210808_132109.jpg
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9th August 2021, 09:00 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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so simple. thats a great way to do it.
cheers
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9th August 2021, 10:24 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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The forge weld is the key to making it permanent and strong, but pretty much everything needs to be simple. I binge watched forged in fire this weekend. There's a lot of overheating and coarse grain on there and none of that can be afforded on chisels, so the work is "smaller", mostly at lower heat other than the forge weld and I see more while the steel heats in the forge and have more control.
Anyone could make chisels like these, though, it just takes some repetition and knowing what not to do.
I want them to look good, but they also should have finer grain than most commercial chisels.
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