Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 34
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,501

    Default

    Looks good, are you taking orders?

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,576

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    Looks good, are you taking orders?
    Yes, but I’m planning on doing it at cost so I’ll get a batch of ferrules quoted and sell them loose for people who prefer to turn their own handles and get a quote for a batch of handles for people to mix and match?
    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,095

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fletty View Post
    ........ a further question that could vie with sharpening for controversy, which way do most fit their coping/fret saw blades? I prefer to have the blade mounted to cut on the pull stroke which is a throw back to my weak, old saw frames because cutting on the pull stroke kept the blade in tension and hence straighter? Maybe I don’t need to now that I have a much stronger frame?.....
    Depends, Fletty. I mount blades either way on my jewellers' saw to suit what I'm doing. If cutting using a 'bird-mouth', then cutting on the pull stroke is more logical to me because it pulls the work down onto the surface as you cut. I think you'd have a bit of difficulty cutting with the upstroke in that situation. Oth, if I'm using it on the metal lathe as a fine parting tool for small parts (as I frequently do), the blade goes in the other way. Ditto if I'm cutting something which is clamped (upright) in a vise. The saw cuts just as well push or pull in the latter instance, it just seems more natural to me to saw that way, having been raised on 'push' saws.

    I use a small bowsaw rather than a fretsaw for cutting waste out of dovetails (with the piece clamped in a vise); the blade is always oriented to cut on the push stroke. That's a case of custom & habit, I think, no compelling reason why it should go either way when I think about it!

    So as far as I'm concerned, the rule for which way the teeth should be orientated in any 'frame' saw is: "put 'em whichever way suits you & whatever it is you're doing".....

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    West Chermside
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Hi Fletty,
    I'm no expert on saws but I still use both fret and coping saws on the pull stroke probably more from habit and convention than for any real reason. The conventional wisdom was that a fine blade could be pulled straight through a cut as it was under tension and only under compression on the return stroke when it was not cutting. The advent of these high tension saw frames has probably made that convention less important than it was. A little lateral thinking and a cautious approach with these new frames may change what was the "correct " way to use fret and coping saws.

    In a reprint of Woodworking Theory and Practice by John Walton an old school book first published in 1947 he says "the saw blade is USUALLY fitted to cut on the pull stroke", so even back then is was not an absolute.

    All the best

    Jeff

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    With much sadness, I heard yesterday about the passing of Lee Marshall, inventor of the Knew Concepts saws.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,501

    Default

    There were a few articles online about Lee back in July. The Barn on White Run | The Tool World Loses An Innovative Giant

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Thanks for that. Lee was a good friend. A generous and warm man. I collaborated with him on the design for the original woodworker's fretsaw. Every now-and-then a pizza box would appear in the post with an updated version.

    The email I received was from Lee's partner, Sheryl, mentioning his memorial ..

    LEE'S MEMORIAL
    Sunday, November 5th from 1:30 PM to 4:00 PM
    Dream Inn Santa Cruz - Surf View Room
    175 W Cliff Dr, Santa Cruz, CA


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

    Default

    Sorry to hear that Derek.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    West Chermside
    Posts
    119

    Default

    It is sad to hear of the passing of Mr Marshall, there are very few people capable of original thought and even fewer people can claim to have had such a big impact on the manufacturing of an item that changed the way people did various tasks in wood work and jewellery making. Fret and coping saws had seen only small improvements over the last century until the Knew saw appeared and took the design to a completely different level.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,576

    Default

    It’s only since his passing that I’ve looked at his website. I was aware of the coping and fret saws but I’m now also taken with his ‘manual scroll saw’ .... which is my description of his saws that are set into a frame to saw vertically? This would be perfect for the occasions when I cut mother-of-pearl for inlays? I hope they are still available because I would like to get one as a sign of respect for the man, to save my own sanity AND to preserve the World’s supply of mother-of-pearl because I am currently wasting far too much when I cut!

    Ive ordered a batch of 10 of the brass ferrules/counterweights for those who may be interested and, for the handles, I hope to supply turned handles from sheoak, turn handles from your timber and/or supply a sketch of the handle mounting details so you can turn your own? All work will be done by fellow forumites
    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Fletty, Knew Concepts will continue. The company was sold a short while before Lee's passing (I was not aware of this until recently). I have not asked, but I suspect it was bought by his offsider, Brian. He will continue the good work.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    Thanks Fletty for pursuing this passion of ours. The prototype brass ferrule/ insert resolves the weight issue well. The initial piece grabs the frame quite tightly.
    Still deciding on the perfect handle. We were looking at a larger version of the blue spruce design or a gents saw type handle with a bead to reference the thumb against. But I guess these will need to be tried and tested also.

    I would suggest that if you don’t like your current handle then make contact with Fletty

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,576

    Default

    Once the prototypes have been proven by a few different hands and the handle design has been refined, handle changeover kits for anodised aluminium framed Knew Concept saws will be offered as below;
    • turned brass ferrule/counterweight and fitting instructions, $AU40 plus p+p
    • turned standard handle (probably sheoak), $AU20 plus p+p
    • handle turned from 160 x 50 x 50 blank supplied by you, $AU15 plus p+p


    AB56C36E-7862-42E8-BF9C-8AE59E6E071D.jpg 77E5FD38-DB94-46FF-A4C9-D2B0B4484381.jpg C4507049-CFF8-428F-8C00-00C90468A199.jpeg

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,576

    Default

    Many thanks to ADMIN for the approval to sell the batch of 10 changeover kits as described above. These will be sold on the market forum......

    Replacement handle kits for Knew Concept saws

    .... and are subject to the normal market place rules. Please make any enquiries and confirm orders on the public forum but all personal contact details via PM

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,576

    Default Fitting instructions for the handle changover kit to your Knew Concept saw/s

    As noted above (and for sale on the forum market place at Replacement handle kits for Knew Concept saws), the handle changover kit for Knew Concept saws has been developed to give more balance and control especially for woodworking applications. There is also another unintended benefit which will be discussed below.
    The changover kit consists of a brass ferrule to both add weight and balance.....

    26DDEE68-E561-4983-B579-051E6A7D7A16.jpg FE1DC2C4-D91C-4352-89F5-3A61E0086D48.jpg

    ..... and a new larger handle to improve control and reduce fatigue during long sessions.

    7B527DE2-D9D7-4FCB-BEC7-C56C1D90B2AC.jpg ECD5D27E-1D60-4E9D-A37B-49318C39D55F.jpg
    The original handle is 110 mm long with min/max diameters 22/28 whereas the new standard handle that can be purchased as part of the kit, is 130 and 26/35 mm respectively.

    STEP 1, REMOVE THE OLD HANDLE
    The original handle is held in place with a rolled pin driven in from one side. Tap the exposed end of the pin to leave a witness mark on the opposite side, drill on the witness mark to make a clearance hole and drive the rolled pin out. The handle can then be tapped off the tang.

    83B455A4-4FBA-4C99-8E21-D574E1920304.jpg

    STEP 2, FIT THE NEW BRASS FERRULE
    The new ferrule is slotted to fit over the frame. In a few cases the slot may need to be widened with a few strokes from an appropriate file. The depth of slot allows the ferrule to fit over the existing blade-holding spindle, and up to the set screws that hold the spindle in place.

    BAD10E0F-0557-4AE5-90F7-6537A2EF6B97.jpg

    PLEASE NOTE, The original handle does not fit over the spindle and so, on several of the saws that have already been changed over, the set screws have been driven in so far that the ends of the spindle have splayed wide open to the point that a crack has started! Undo the set screws, GENTLY close up the slot in the spindle, tap the new brass ferrule over the spindle as far as the slot in the ferrule will permit and then retighten the set screws in the spindle. This has the double (although unintended!) benefit of locking the spindle and ferrule in place and reducing the spreading force on the aluminium spindle.

    STEP 3, FIT THE NEW HANDLE
    Slide the handle on to the ferrule and check that it is aligned with the frame.

    49A34679-DD8A-451E-96C9-017887732F85.jpg

    If not, adjust the opposing set screws in the blade-holding spindle until the saw frame, ferrule and handle are in line. Once they are in line, the new handle can simply be glued onto the ferrule by cleaning the surface of the brass (I use isopropanol) and by applying thick ‘super glue’ to the recess in the handle.

    STEP 4, ENJOY YOUR NEW KNEW CONCEPTS SAW!

    A279C6D6-E53D-4278-8731-70D36D76223F.jpg 8A88A4EF-1F45-4D70-AFE0-CA898E800066.jpg
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. I knew it, I knew it....
    By Sebastiaan56 in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12th February 2010, 12:26 PM
  2. If I knew then what I know now...
    By ElizaLeahy in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 22nd February 2009, 12:56 PM
  3. If you knew then what you know now
    By havenoideaatall in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 40
    Last Post: 21st September 2006, 10:44 PM
  4. Well, I never knew that!
    By Eddie Jones in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 26th July 2006, 03:51 PM
  5. If I Only Knew Then What I Know Now
    By DPB in forum ROGUES GALLERY
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 18th March 2005, 04:37 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •