Thread: Sore Points about Saws

What type of handle are you after WR?

There are *many* scanned-in handles to be viewed and downloaded online.
Most of them I'm guessing will be the upto 1920/40 sort of period.

If you want to find out that particular sawblade, to find out the 'proper' original handle, then you could clean down through the black oxide coating that is on it now to see about finding an etch underneath. There is every chance of finding good info there.

Cheers,
Paul

The unknown red handle is quite similar to a Toledo I have a couple, one of which i sharpened up and is a very handy saw. Haven't got to the other one yet (photo below)... it is in the growing collection of To Be Sharpened Saws. First one was free and this was a very good buy at $2 from the rubbish dump shop, Tiny's Shed (for those Canberra viewers).

image.jpg

Cheers

Saw Crack

Yep, step one will be to find out the breed, then the collective (well, PMcGee, most likely) will quickly find you a pattern for an 'original', or one that's close enough for all intents & purposes. You'll need a piece of suitable wood about 24mm thick (dressed). Getting hold of a bit of Apple or Beech might be tricky in your neck of the woods, so I'd recommend something that is not too hard to work with, but will give you a nice finish - Qld Maple, Qld Walnut, maybe Coachwood, or anything in that line. You will have to put out a call for some replacement saw bolts, too, by the looks.

I'm sure there'll be plenty of advice & encouragement coming from the audience, as you go along.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by pmcgee

What type of handle are you after WR?

There are *many* scanned-in handles to be viewed and downloaded online.
Most of them I'm guessing will be the upto 1920/40 sort of period.

If you want to find out that particular sawblade, to find out the 'proper' original handle, then you could clean down through the black oxide coating that is on it now to see about finding an etch underneath. There is every chance of finding good info there.

Cheers,
Paul

Paul I started a reply last night but got interrupted liked the original handle shape for my hands it was ideal the one fitted was as I said a rough copy back then. Your comment on types scans reminded me I have some of those posted on here already in my archives. I will double check those first over the next few days while we are having weather not fit for shed time.

Almost all the saws need TLC some more than others looking at the backsaw it appears to be Spear & Jackson and as it was part of the kit I guess they would have all been the same. Will double check.

Originally Posted by Saw Crack

The unknown red handle is quite similar to a Toledo I have a couple, one of which i sharpened up and is a very handy saw. Haven't got to the other one yet (photo below)... it is in the growing collection of To Be Sharpened Saws. First one was free and this was a very good buy at $2 from the rubbish dump shop, Tiny's Shed (for those Canberra viewers).

image.jpg

Cheers

Saw Crack

Thanks SC a closer investigation required on that one on my part unlike your no label/logo seen straight off.

Originally Posted by IanW

Yep, step one will be to find out the breed, then the collective (well, PMcGee, most likely) will quickly find you a pattern for an 'original', or one that's close enough for all intents & purposes. You'll need a piece of suitable wood about 24mm thick (dressed). Getting hold of a bit of Apple or Beech might be tricky in your neck of the woods, so I'd recommend something that is not too hard to work with, but will give you a nice finish - Qld Maple, Qld Walnut, maybe Coachwood, or anything in that line. You will have to put out a call for some replacement saw bolts, too, by the looks.

I'm sure there'll be plenty of advice & encouragement coming from the audience, as you go along.

Cheers,

Ian I have QLD Beech sent down to me by a forum member long gone from here I am hoping the 2 pieces I didn't cut up for bowl blanks one might be just right size already know thick enough. QLD Maple or Walnut not a fan of Coachwood . If I don't have size Greg Ward is my first port of call.

I have a small collection of Dittson scews or should I use the metal lathe and make some to suit I have to do that for the other saw missing parts or whole screws. (oh its nice to be able to even think about jumping onto the Myford)

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Paul I started a reply last night but got interrupted liked the original handle shape for my hands it was ideal the one fitted was as I said a rough copy back then.

A few things. First can we have a photo of that whole saw from square on ... occasionally the profile can look familiar or suggest something. Actually - with your handle removed if possible. I can see there is a clean section underneath - and the shape of that, and the number and position of the original bolt holes can all be a help. Also there is the infrequent stamp under the handle.

Do you remember a medallion from back whenever? Disston has the Keystone (apparently Philadelphia is the "Keystone state") ... Atkins the linked AAA's ... a coat of arms for a UK saw ... eagle for the US ...

Do you know where and/or when it might have been acquired?

Pardon me if this is stuff you know, but ... I was forensically investigating a saw this morning. It looked very nice with a uniform, smooth dark-brown/black oxide on the whole plate ... but I wanted to get down past that to see if there was an etch underneath ... the jury is still out on that.

I was trying to think of an analogy to the process ... I imagined eg aluminium deposited in a layer onto glass. You want to take off the thin layer without disturbing the 'glass' just underneath. I was using P80 and old P80, and P120 and old P120, and P2000. I need to get some more grits.
I find the 2000 is really good when the black is starting to clear away from a sensitive area.

Also only rub with the grain - ie along the length of the saw - and use a board to support the blade so it can sit flat with the handle hanging off the side (or remove the handle). I use WD40 as a lubricant and clean it off and re-apply frequently. I have a LED light shining down on the blade from about 10". You can see most faint etches better with WD40 or similar pooled over the surface and move the light about to different angles. Sometimes it helps to go out into sunlight ... or switch off the light inside and just use a torch.

Cheers,
Paul

Originally Posted by pmcgee

A few things. First can we have a photo of that whole saw from square on ... occasionally the profile can look familiar or suggest something. Actually - with your handle removed if possible. I can see there is a clean section underneath - and the shape of that, and the number and position of the original bolt holes can all be a help. Also there is the infrequent stamp under the handle.

Do you remember a medallion from back whenever? Disston has the Keystone (apparently Philadelphia is the "Keystone state") ... Atkins the linked AAA's ... a coat of arms for a UK saw ... eagle for the US ...

Do you know where and/or when it might have been acquired?

Pardon me if this is stuff you know, but ... I was forensically investigating a saw this morning. It looked very nice with a uniform, smooth dark-brown/black oxide on the whole plate ... but I wanted to get down past that to see if there was an etch underneath ... the jury is still out on that.

I was trying to think of an analogy to the process ... I imagined eg aluminium deposited in a layer onto glass. You want to take off the thin layer without disturbing the 'glass' just underneath. I was using P80 and old P80, and P120 and old P120, and P2000. I need to get some more grits.
I find the 2000 is really good when the black is starting to clear away from a sensitive area.

Also only rub with the grain - ie along the length of the saw - and use a board to support the blade so it can sit flat with the handle hanging off the side (or remove the handle). I use WD40 as a lubricant and clean it off and re-apply frequently. I have a LED light shining down on the blade from about 10". You can see most faint etches better with WD40 or similar pooled over the surface and move the light about to different angles. Sometimes it helps to go out into sunlight ... or switch off the light inside and just use a torch.

Cheers,
Paul

Paul will try get full photo today and might even remove that crap handle cleaning up will be a side line thing when weather is so crap I can't do other stuff.
Clean up method is what I have used in the past.

Oh saw part of a whole tool box kit purchased in the UK pre-1960 out of one of the UK catalouges can't recall which one to long ago I would have been 4 at the time. All the saw which there were 4 in all are the same maker so if I can clearly see one I'll photograph that logo. I think that the others show Spear & Jackson amongst the grime.

That sounds like a good point for investigation too. S&J would be a strong contender.

This is 1916 Qld - Boxing Day sale??? - but UK papers are probably viewable online too for an idea of what was about for the 60s.

RayG might maybe have tool catalogues from around then? or Melbourne Matty?

Paul

1916 - tool boxes.JPG

Originally Posted by pmcgee

That sounds like a good point for investigation too. S&J would be a strong contender.

This is 1916 Qld - Boxing Day sale??? - but UK papers are probably viewable online too for an idea of what was about for the 60s.

RayG might maybe have tool catalogues from around then? or Melbourne Matty?

Paul

1916 - tool boxes.JPG

Ah Paul me thinks a missunderstanding

The Box kit off tools was bought prior us coming to Australia in the UK via a store booklet/catalouge these were not as we see today but like those days when David Jones here sent out booklets. I can not ask either parent as they both have passed on.

I didn't venture into he freezing cold today 11C here and by 10am my hands were like ice just sitting at the desk. Photos as soon as possible as requested.

Yep - I understand - but you can bet your booties that sooner or later someone will be able to produce a catalogue page with some good suggestions.

Do you know where there would have been when they got it? Rural - City - Town - north - south ?

Cheers,
Paul

11C ? ... pfft We get to drive around in the dark with our window open.

Originally Posted by pmcgee

Yep - I understand - but you can bet your booties that sooner or later someone will be able to produce a catalogue page with some good suggestions.

Do you know where there would have been when they got it? Rural - City - Town - north - south ?

Cheers,
Paul

11C ? ... pfft We get to drive around in the dark with our window open.

Paul I think your right there I believe some obscure ones have already been put up on the net but I never even considered saving the links back then.

We lived north east Durham area Dipton/Stanley to be more precises so I guess the major store would have been Newcastle.

I'll see if I can come up with a name of store which it may have come out of.

Here you go Paul a full length 500mm blade shot and with handle removed. In doing so I recall drilling out brass rivet type studs screws I can't recall a medallion.

Does this one have screw nuts? ... it looks a bit like the shadow of your other one at this angle ...
Can we see the two of them next to each other?