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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    New England
    Age
    60
    Posts
    307

    Smile Combination squares

    I am looking around for a new combination square since I dropped my old square so it isn't anymore, square that is.

    Can anyone offer me any advise on the best brand to go for. I have an adversion to Stanley products after having a bad experience with one of their "handyman" hand drills.

    Is the best necessarily the most expensive?

    Thanks

    Ivor

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Mallabula, NSW
    Posts
    163

    Unhappy

    The best combination square is Starrett and, yes, it's really expensive!
    RFNK

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Box Hill
    Age
    66
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Mitutoyo and yes even more expensive than Starret. Look very hard as the prices vary greatly.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,120

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ivor View Post
    I am looking around for a new combination square since I dropped my old square so it isn't anymore, square that is.

    Can anyone offer me any advise on the best brand to go for. I have an adversion to Stanley products after having a bad experience with one of their "handyman" hand drills.

    Is the best necessarily the most expensive?

    Thanks

    Ivor
    go to ebay and look for an older hardened head combination square. Should be about $50 and if it appears in even reasonable shape in the listing, it'll be square.

    George Wilson here in the states suggested this to me long ago, as well as others ("stop buying unhardened squares -they wear to quickly).

    I've gotten two hardened head squares from ebay, one lufkin ($35) and one browne and sharpe ($50) and both are very square.

    The other bonus is when both surfaces are hardened, the sliding action of the square is FAR better. Theres' no great need to buy these in new and certified condition for woodworking.

    I was curious the other day to see if there were still one or two available here at any given time and ended up buying a starrett hardened head and rule (older in very good shape) for $40 on ebay -it had just been listed.

    One caveat - confirm in the pictures that the head itself has the word "hardened" on it. There are often listings of hardened combination squares where the seller is confused and thinks that the whole setup is hardened if the rule says it is, but you can see by the coarse grind marks on the side of the head that it's not a hardened head.

    I've bought mid grade US made squares (the ones that sell for about $75 or $90 now) and heads, none have been as square or worked as smoothly as the older hardened squares.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    335

    Default

    After 20 years hopefully Ivor has sorted it out.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,120

    Default

    oh my!...fooled by a necroposter.

    Hopefully someone heeds my advice, though. If they don't, I've refreshed it in my head and won't forget it as soon as I would've otherwise.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Age
    77
    Posts
    649

    Default

    Mind you, some people take longer than others !!!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    944

    Default

    DW,

    Your information on combination squares was a good read regardless of any date consideration.
    Always good to get user reviews etc.

    I hope your all OK over there re C19

    Cheers
    Keith

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    409

    Default

    What's the consensus on fitting new rules with old stocks? I have a vintage Mitutoyo stock with a new metric Stanley rule. I've tried to find a new Mitutoyo rule but no luck.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,888

    Default

    I would say if it has been checked as being square and is doing the job intended then no problem.
    Regards
    John

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

    Default

    Have to admit this thread has been useful to me. Bought a 300mm iGaging combination about a year ago but realised recently it goes out of square if I bottom the ruler out. Been looking for something more accurate, never realised 4 piece Starrett sets could be had so cheaply from the US. Even a 2 piece set can be had for around half the new price. I do worry about paying that kind of money for precision tools without being able to inspect though.

    Tempted to just go find another iGaging one that's accurate, should have checked it was square when I bought it. I have an adjustable Colen Clenton square which is dead accurate so really just need something half decent that I can keep in my tote for every day use.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,888

    Default

    Before you buy a new one try this.
    Squaring a Combinaton Square - YouTube
    Regards
    John

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,120

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by verawood View Post
    DW,

    Your information on combination squares was a good read regardless of any date consideration.
    Always good to get user reviews etc.

    I hope your all OK over there re C19

    Cheers
    Keith
    Thanks, Keith - the news about COVID here is a bit oversensationalized. We're kind of rolling along dealing with it and lowering risk level each time numbers go up. Outside is still safe, and it's summer, so we're all just outside (lots of people walking, biking and fishing since they can't sit in a bar), and still plenty of takeout.

    I work in an office with 25 people and have to admit that I don't personally know anyone who has tested positive for covid yet (but it sounds likely that some of us have had it without knowing it).

    Did just receive my third hardened old square (it's got a couple of dings on the rule, etc) and checked it vs. my reference starrett engineer's square and it's still dead square.

    Perhaps it's the height of laziness, but I do my rough hand work (sawing, marking, etc) away from my bench and like to have one of the squares over in my sawbench area and one at my bench so that I don't have to walk back and forth.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,120

    Default

    (don't want to make it out like the covid thing is no big deal here, it just doesn't have the on-the-ground hysteria that it does elsewhere. I think the fear of it when it's not around is often worse than how we are by nature when it *is* around. That is, when you have a problem right in front of you, you deal with it and continue on. When you dread it and fear what ifs, then it can really drive you up a wall. How can you get relief from something that isn't even physically there to deal with.

    The news doesn't help. If there's ever a break in it, they lose the ability to attract views and clicks, so they're always inclined to really drum it up and to keep beating that drum over and over).

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,791

    Default

    This is something I have been meaning to do for some time and this thread triggered me to giving it a go.

    I have had for some time two surface plates and a squareness reference block for my MW activities.

    Surfaceplates.jpg

    The granite surface plate on the left is new and comes with a cert so its very useful to check against.
    The brown cast iron plate on the right is an old plate from Anorak Bob (thanks Bob) that I have checked against the granite plate and while it has some issues, especially at the edges, the inner 2/3rds is still good for these sorts of measurements.
    The small dark grey cast iron plate in the middle is one I made at a scraping class organised through the MW forum in Melbourne in 2014. The surfaces on this plate are flat and square to one thou' across all 6 surfaces so it is useful for assessing the inside squareness of "Squares"

    The first thing that is done is to test straightness of a square's edges - both inside and outside edges
    Here is the testing for the outside.
    The Silex square is just being supported vertically by the small reference block and I'm examine the outside long edge in contact with the large surface plate.
    TestingFLatness.jpg

    A 0.038 mm (1.5 thou) feeler gage is then used to gently probe for gaps under the contacting surfaces.
    Sorry about the poor photo but this shows that the old Silex does have a shallow dint at this point.
    FeelerGuage.jpg

    Below shows testing the inside squareness of a Toledo machinist square - only the small reference block is used for the inside assessment
    The square is held flat up against one side and the same feeler gage approach is used to measure gaps on the other edge, and a ruler measures where the gaps are and basic geometry is used to determined the final deviation from squareness.

    Inside.jpg

    To measure the outside squareness the small reference block is placed on the large surface plate and the outside of the square is held up against one fo the contact surfaces and again probed for gaps with the feeler gauge.
    Outside.jpg

    I can't claim to have performed thorough testing ie complete flatness testing, or having probed every mm of every square I tested but quick and dirty tests shows the following out of square in degrees. The other stupid thing I did not do was register if the angle was greater or less than 90º

    1) Old Silex square I found in a skip: Outside 0.047º , Inside 0.050º

    2) Very old brass and wooden square: Outside 0.18º , Inside 0.085º

    3) Newish Toledo Square: Inside <0.038º, outside <0.038º

    4) Cheap and cheerful combo square from Timbecon. <0.038º , 0.050º

    The largish outside value for the brass and wooden square is understandable give the handle surface is just timber.

    The limit of the measurement is the thickness of the 1.5 thou' (0.038mm) feeler gauge which across 150 mm translates ~0.02º - a thinner gauges would be better

    Unfortunately I could not find my 1 thou' feeler gauge so had to settle for a 1.5 thou' but I have ordered another one so I will repeat this when it arrives.
    Hopefully I will remember to measure whether it's + or - from 90º.

    This method is especially useful for checking the squareness of small squares.

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