Thread: Stanley #45 question.

CRC and all those others are nice as lubes - but you need a serious thread unlocker

I am not going down the shed at this time and 2 degrees to find out the brand on my can - around 15 to 20 dollars and this is my second can in about 30 years

You will have to find an engineering or similar supplies place to get it

Lock your wallet in the glovebox cos when you see what they stock in the shops the pros go to - its Aladdins cave

Neil

I'm not sure if it's a thread issue. All of the threads seem pretty good and there is not a significant amount of rust on the plane. I think that maybe the little rod may have been overtightened.
I've not used or set-up a #45 before and if some force is required to loosen the blade, I'd like to know where and in what direction.

Just been here and a big thank-you to the people that got this up on the interwebs.

http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/st...anes/45man.pdf

The part I'm talking about is called the cutter bolt.

Originally Posted by seanz

I'm not sure if it's a thread issue. All of the threads seem pretty good and there is not a significant amount of rust on the plane. I think that maybe the little rod may have been overtightened.
I've not used or set-up a #45 before and if some force is required to loosen the blade, I'd like to know where and in what direction.

Just been here and a big thank-you to the people that got this up on the interwebs.

http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/st...anes/45man.pdf

The part I'm talking about is called the cutter bolt.

seanz,
that threaded bolt holds the blade with a wedge type action that is similar to an old pushbike crank cotter pin. the flat on the head is tapered to hold the blade as the bolt is drawn into the body of the plane.
It will need to be driven out from the threaded end towards the blade. A copper or hardwood drift might be needed. (hard brass might ruin the thread)
If you ruin the bolt, I have more than a couple of spares.
The clip that engages a groove in the screw is expected to hold the butterfly nut as the wedge is released. In your plane it seems the screw was over tightened, and the wedge FULLY engaged on the blade.
There is a small steel pin that runs in a slot in the bolt that keeps the bolt from turning in the body.
Regards,
Peter
Attachment 172687

There is a small steel pin that runs in a slot in the bolt that keeps the bolt from turning in the body.

And that was the culprit. Bit of rust or gunge or roughness on it and it makes the cutter bolt stick like it's seized. Tap cutter bolt with a timber drift and out it comes, first blow.
Set up plane with a little beading cutter and place timber drift (oak) in vise make a little bead on the drift. Cutter bolt moves freely now.
Sweet.


Thanks Peter.

Also, thanks Neil......I'll be on the look-out for a better freeing agent than CRC. I've got a stuck mouth adjuster screw on a #92 and it's not a crucial job (works fine as is) but I'd like to get it moving.

cheers
Sean

As for freeing agents has anyone in this great brown land tried any of the Kroil products? Liquid Wrench I think was how one was described. From the US and supposedly the go-to product for loosening rusty stuck things. One forum I was reading had one chap saying he had the same results using a 50/50 combo of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Cheaper too. I've not tried it yet.

Any comments?

Cheerio,
Virg.