Thread: Stanley No 5 repair

Originally Posted by Huon pine fan

.......Nobody has commented on the stud length. Does that mean that it is correct? Should I loctite it in place?......

Hpf, the stud length is correct when enough comes through the knob to give the nut a good grip, but not so much you can't tighten it firmly. I aim for at least three full turns of thread in the nut before it seats. Given that knobs get switched around a lot, it's not uncommon to find studs that are a bit short so you only get one turn or so of thread in the barrel nut, which is prety skimpy. Perhaps the most common problem is that the bottom of the countersink is crushed and the nut bottoms out on the stud before it tightens on the knob. A couple of washers will fix that, but it's difficult to find washers with 7/16 OD & 7/32 ID. Before I had a small metal lathe I would find a couple of washers with the right ID (~6mm), lock them on a 6mm bolt for a mandrel, chuck in a drill & file the outside until they are a comfortable fit in the 7/16 hole...
Cheers,

Woops I was thinking studs for knobs & totes & forgot you'd asked about the adjuster wheel stud - just ignore my inane ramblings...

I guess the proof's in the pudding - if everything works properly, the stud must be ok. If you can put in the blade assembly with the adjuster wheel at the half way mark & extend & retract the blade sufficiently,then you have enough for purpose. I can't imagine why anyone would shorten that stud unless they had very large hands & kept damaging themselves on the exposed end of the stud??

Cheers,

I also checked a USA 5 wheel stud still in the frog and it’s 26.4 sticking out .

How deep is the hole for the stud ? Measure that and add 26 or 27 mm and that should be close to a stud length ?

Rob

Thanks Rob
I don't have the plane with me but the thread depth would be in the 5-6mm range i would think. That makes about 20mm exposed. However the stud end that screws in does seem like it has been tampered with.
However to Ian's point I guess that if I can get sufficient adjustment then it should be OK.

See how it goes, Hpf, & if you do have problems, I think I've got a spare stud rattling around in a drawer. Not sure what breed of plane it's from, but I can check it against an English Stanley that I have. I won't be able to check it for a few days, but I'll do so as soon as I can....
Cheers,

Thanks for your very kind offer Ian.
There is no rush as I am about to head off for a few weeks. When I get back I will give it a better investigation.

This may be of interest

RexMill.com Hand Planes 101 The Resource

Rick

Originally Posted by warrick

This may be of interest

RexMill.com Hand Planes 101 The Resource

Of interest, but not of use, as it applies only to USA Stanleys, and the OPs is English.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Vann

Of interest, but not of use, as it applies only to USA Stanleys, and the OPs is English....

Vann, I think warrick was directing us to the handle repair bit, which as far as I know wouldn't be affected by nationality....

Using a bit of 1/4" all-thread & shaped cauls would be a handy tip to remember if you are ever faced with repairing a mid-grip break. They're not an easy thing to clamp with regular clamps...

Cheers,

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Vann, I think warrick was directing us to the handle repair bit, which as far as I know wouldn't be affected by nationality....

Using a bit of 1/4" all-thread & shaped cauls would be a handy tip to remember if you are ever faced with repairing a mid-grip break. They're not an easy thing to clamp with regular clamps...

Cheers,

Cheers,

You thought right Ian.

Rick

I thought that I would report on the progress of the repair. I stripped the plane completely down and gave it a good clean with degreaser. Then I flattened the sole and sides which were a little pitted but came up reasonably good. I decided that the tote wasn't worth trying to repair so made a new one out of jarrah using the downloaded pattern. I sanded the front handle and after sealing will fill the cracks with wax. I then flattened the frog and cleaned up the lateral adjuster as best I could. The blade was very pitted so I checked my late grandfathers plane goodies that I have and found a brand new blade which cost him 8/6, a long time ago! I cleaned off the light rust, flattened the back and gave it a bit of a hone. Now I just need to get some BLO to seal the handle and tote, fill the handle cracks and complete the assembly before giving it a test run.
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Thanks Grandpa!

I am calling it finished. I think that it looks pretty good now and seems to perform very well. I am sure that my son will be very happy and hope he will get many years of satisfaction from it. As he lives in the UK though it might be a while before we can get over to see him. Plenty of time to work on his chisels and a few other goodies!
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Originally Posted by Huon pine fan

I am calling it finished. I think that it looks pretty good now and seems to perform very well. I am sure that my son will be very happy and hope he will get many years of satisfaction from it. As he lives in the UK though it might be a while before we can get over to see him. Plenty of time to work on his chisels and a few other goodies!
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Looks amazingly different to when I saw it last,
Tho I do think son, has had some fun stolen from him!.

Cheers Matt