Thread: Stanley No 5 repair

PVA would hold it if properly done

If a repair doesn't work out very well Lee Valley have patterns and instructions of how to make replacement totes for Stanley planes. The No 5 pattern is here:

https://assets.leevalley.com/Origina...ote-c-06-e.pdf

I agree with Fuzzie. If the plane will be a user and not a collectable, and the knob is rosewood, I have used Jarrah to get a close match. Not much has contrasting grain like the original but the dark pink parts of Jarrah and BLO finish (plus some grime from use) tie it in. The plans available are great - even if imperial.

Thanks Mountain Ash
The plane is definitely intended to be a user. One of my sons has picked up an interest in woodworking so I want to refurbish it and give it to him as a starter. I have some jarrah offcuts so with Fuzzie's links to the plans that could be a great option. I have plenty of imperial measuring devices because my late father refused to use metric!

Originally Posted by China

PVA would hold it if properly done

I agree
I would scrub the break with a cleaner Acerton? an brush maybe a brass brush ,check the fit of the break,
If it’s a good fit,glue an clamp an leave for as long as possible,
Worst result is you have a plan B or ready.

Cheers Matt.

Best of luck in getting a PVA glue to adhere to an old break, I've never had much success. An epoxy glue might have a bit more chance, but a really sound bond is most likely with a fresh break, & you clearly don't have that here!

As suggested, making a new knob & tote is far & away the most satisfactory cure, you'll be like a dog chasing its tail trying to fix the existing mess. It's a pity they aren't recoverable, those old Rosewood fittings were so much nicer in the hand, but with a bit of care & perseverance, you can make new ones that are as good.....

Cheers,

PVA will not stick to PVA.

You have to remove any residual glue on the timber to get a strong bond. I have found that the solvent used to clean PVC pipe fittings before joining will soften even waterproof PVA enabling it to be removed with a wire brush.

As I said properly done I have repaired many plane totes and front nobs with PVA and never had a problem

Its an English Stanley . The early ones did have Rosewood knob and Handles . I only found that out here on forum reading some discussion not to long ago , and I have one as well with BRW. It had me scratching my head because Id never seen one before and it looked original and right for the plane .

That rear handle looks a bit sus with the fit of it , the way it overhangs at its front bottom and not much room at the back has me wondering if its a later fit in .

Most are Beech and the restorer in me can see medullary rays in that front knob, I think its Beech and I think I can see it in the rear of that handle . But the break looks darker and not typically beech looking . That could be from glue ? or it could be a darker wood . I still reckon Beech .

As a restorer for the fastest fix I'd be glueing them up with two pack and bogging any cracks with Plasti bond and colours added . Then touching out the repairs with colours and some shellac with a pencil brush .

If I was re making Id first go for Beech if it originally came that way . But I wouldn't go driving for a plank just for that.

And if I wanted to dandy it up a bit Id go with a nice bit of Blackwood on both .

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

.... I think its Beech and I think I can see it in the rear of that handle . But the break looks darker and not typically beech looking . That could be from glue ? or it could be a darker wood . I still reckon Beech........

Rob, I'm usually not keen to stick my neck out with an id from a photo, but I reckon that's Beech too. I'd still be happy to say "Beech" for the broken surface.

Originally Posted by auscab

.... As a restorer for the fastest fix I'd be glueing them up with two pack and bogging any cracks with Plasti bond and colours

And if I wanted to dandy it up a bit Id go with a nice bit of Blackwood on both......

Given the plane is not an heirloom and the woodwork is far from special, I can't see why you'd bother trying to repair it. The front knob is a mess, & while I don't doubt you could bring it back to life if you spent the time on it, it would take me 10 minutes to turn a new one, so no contest.

Some nice Blackwood or any of several other dense Acacias would certainly make excellent handles, but there are literally dozens of woods to choose from that will give you that nice tactile finish that makes a handle so comfy to use. My most recent 'discovery' is Solomon Island Ebony (Xanthostemon melanoxylon). It's not that bad to work with despite its density & takes a superb finish: SIE woodwork.jpg

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Given the plane is not an heirloom and the woodwork is far from special, I can't see why you'd bother trying to repair it.

Just because I'd have it finished with an hours work Ian .

Making the front and rear would be a nice project though . Your woodwork looks great .

I like these English Stanley's. They would be a good common plane to hot rod with woodwork and any other modification tweaks we could think of .
The only thing I don't like, comparing them to older US Stanley, is the extra weight it the body . Maybe that could be one of the tweaks . Lightening them with a grinder by removing some of the extra cast iron. Nicely done though.

I Took the slop out of the adjustment of one of mine by peening the brass adjustment wheel yoke slot in a bit . It worked but the adjustment now has an indexed feel to it . I dont mind it . And its better than seven turns to remove the slack before the blade starts to shift .

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

Just because I'd have it finished with an hours work Ian ......

Can't argue with that, Rob.

The knob is a doddle once you've made a few, & as long as you have the right bits to bore the boss hole & the nut countersink (5/8 & 7/16" respectively), but I'll admit the tote is another matter. By the time I find the right piece of wood, hand-thickness it ('cos it's far too short a piece to put through the planer), find the template I like to use which is lost in the drawer-full of the dozens of templates I keep (most which I'll never use again!), cut it out & bore the stud hole & barrel-nut countersink, a good hour has been used up. About half an hour of rasping to establish the basic shape, then anything up to another two hours spent refining & finishing it. I must've missed something there because it never takes me less than a full morning to re-wood an old plane.

So yeah, I can see why you might favour repair over replacement......

Cheers,

Just some interesting related pics Ian .

I based these knobs on Stanley Plane knobs . There a rough quick thing and sort of close looking with a wider base. Great for clamping things down . There's a big bugle screw coming up from the underside of this finger board for each knob . Its a set up that fits the table saw by locating in a slot for holding drawer bottoms against a fence.

Ive never turned one for a plane though . I would like to .

IMG_3446.JPG

And hows this for a fast way of making the Tote / Handle.
The Wadkin RS overhead router. Those things can really spin fast. I know a bloke who lost the good part of three fingers on such a thing .

A bin full of Beech'ns in the UK.

IMG_3448.JPG

Rob

Thanks for all the thoughts on the tote. I think that I will try a repair as well as making one for a spare. That way my son is covered if the repair fails.
Nobody has commented on the stud length. Does that mean that it is correct? Should I loctite it in place?