Needs Pictures: 0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
Thread: Stanley #50 as Kerfing Plane
-
17th January 2021, 12:14 PM #1
Stanley #50 as Kerfing Plane
I found myself recently more and more often to resaw small boards for making boxes and others. I could do that on a table saw, but mine is too crappy and I just don't like the noise, etc.
So, I do the resawing more by hand. My sawing skills are not quite there yet so I make a kerf around the board for the hand saw to run in first.
My first approach was to use this jig to establish a kerf.
It is simply a board with two slots to screw an other board onto it. This allows to adjust a ledge underneath the top board of the distance you want the kerf to be from the edge of your board. The jig is then clamped into the vice together with the board to be resawn. I use a back saw to then run along the edge of the top board to cut the kerf.
It works ok and was easy and quick to put together. But with the small teeth it takes a while to make a nice deep kerf. I was always playing with the idea of a kerfing plane. In my scrap metal box I found a cut off from the toe of a hand saw. And I still had a #50, which I restored a while back, but without cutter.
I saw some people used #45s and alike to make a kerfing plane, so I thought why not with the #50 as well.
First I drilled the holes for the rods and clamping screw with my Lazarus drill. It really works so well for saw plates. I have drilled quite a few saw plates now with it without any issues. I use some inexpensive HSS Cobalt drill bits and they just eat their way through. I think with the lower speed and constant downpressure they do not overheat easily. Anyway, I love it.
After having all the holes right I shaped the blade to clear the handle, cleaned and sharpend it. The blade sits in the plane body to give a max of 16mm deep kerf.
For the fence I had to drill and tap two M4 holes to screw a bigger wooden fence onto it. This is to give a better reference area and also the smaller fence would not reference at the beginning of the cut as it sits too high. This was the only permanent alteration to the plane.
It worked very well right away. On the wood I used to test however it tended to clog and I had to frequently brush out the dust. For me that is a minor issue for now. I did not change the TPI in the plate and kept it at the original 6TPI.
Kerf was now cut fast and my big hand saw tracked well in the kerf.
A frame saw for resawing is still on my list as I see myself doing more resawing of small to mid size stock in the future.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
-
17th January 2021 12:14 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
17th January 2021, 01:19 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,892
Hi CK. Great idea. But what about all the extra planing to size that you're missing out on?
Seriously, really clever
-
17th January 2021, 01:52 PM #3
Thanks MA
Don't worry there is still lots of planing to do. One to remove the saw marks and second I set the kerfing plane so the board comes out slightly thicker than I want. I don't trust my accuracy so I can dial in more careful [emoji6]
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
-
18th January 2021, 09:53 PM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2019
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 141
Clever idea, CK. The saw blade actually looks the part.
Will be watching your frame saw build with great interest.
I really like the Lazarus drill (and the associated restoration progress posts), you did a stellar job resurrecting it.
-
3rd August 2022, 09:14 PM #5
Finally got around to make that frame saw. But I thought to give it its own thread.
I framed my saw
Anyway, I also needed to make a new kerfing blade for my #50. The one I made above works, but clogs up easily. And the saw dust gets compacted and stick to the teeth.
I remembered Bushmiller's Post for making a blade just like the Blackburn kerfing saw blade.
Anyone built a roubo frame saw?
That was very helpful in working the same steps to make mine. I used up an old cheap handsaw blade.
My file guide came in handy there and it did not take too long. I decided to first cut the teeth and then cut the blade to the right shape to fit into the #50.
I also replicated the leading and trailing edge from Blackburn. I am not sure if they do much. I can always cut them off.
I can say this teeth pattern works much better. It hardly clogs up. The saw dust is not getting compacted in the gullets like at the other blade. Hence it drops right out.
First it was a bit aggressive. Especially when coming out of the cut the nose tends to dive and the teeth dig in. I relaxed the rake of the first 5 teeth by 5 degrees and now she goes pretty smooth.
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
Similar Threads
-
Kerfing Plane
By 62woollybugger in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 5Last Post: 28th April 2021, 12:57 PM -
Dual Record 405/ Stanley 55 kerfing blade
By jimhanna in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 1Last Post: 14th August 2019, 07:34 AM -
Frame saw to complete a kerfing plane cut
By jimhanna in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 1Last Post: 28th July 2019, 07:50 PM -
Using a Record 405 as a kerfing plane
By jimhanna in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 8Last Post: 2nd January 2019, 01:30 PM -
Has anyone made the kerfing plane described by Tim Fidgen in the Unplugged Workshop
By starr in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 18Last Post: 1st May 2016, 03:45 PM