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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    48
    Posts
    157

    Default Stanley No. 71 router plane - request for advice

    I just bought a NOS No. 71 from Gumtree ($150 including postage) . It has not been used and includes all parts - fence, fence screw and washer, adjustable foot and three cutters (1/2",1/4" and spear point). Even the cutters look brand new and still have the factory grind marks on them, never been sharpened. Nickel plating complete, even the nickel plating looks brand new on the sole.

    However there is the tiniest rocking (about 0.25mm) from front to back from the sole being placed on a flat surface.

    I was wondering if I should bother flattening the sole (removing the nickel plating) or just attach a wooden base? And if I attach a wooden base, what timber should I use (preferably from Tasmanian timbers as it's easier to get a hold of for me). Would Tasmanian Blackwood be suitable?

    Made in England and from the 60s I'm guessing, so not collectible but will be a user.

    Edited to add: I also have the Veritas version, closed throat and no base attached.

    Regards Adam

    20191023_170811.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Look up Paul Sellers on YouTube, he has a video about the router plane in which *I think* he says not to flatten it, they’re made that way on purpose.
    You boys like Mexico ?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    48
    Posts
    157

    Default

    Thanks Sam. I've watched a few Paul Sellers router plane videos but can't remember seeing that but I'll review them again. I know he pretty much always uses a wooden base though. He says that the wood should be stable so I'm hoping something like Tasmanian Blackwood would suit.


    Regards Adam

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    73
    Posts
    9,057

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stratman View Post
    Thanks Sam. I've watched a few Paul Sellers router plane videos but can't remember seeing that but I'll review them again. I know he pretty much always uses a wooden base though. He says that the wood should be stable so I'm hoping something like Tasmanian Blackwood would suit.


    Regards Adam
    Adam, a wider base might help make it more stable. I had a 71 for a while, but we just didn't get on, I found the handles put the effort too high & I never enjoyed using it. Maybe it was just me, others seem to find them ok, though I will add that one of Veritas's boasts for their version is their lower handles make it more user-friendly.

    So my worry would be that raising it further with an add-on base might exacerbate that tipsy-topsy effect. It will also increase the length of shaft between the retaining yoke & the work, which might introduce more chatter on heavy cuts. If you've got a good dense bit of BW you can keep the base reasonably thin. It's always worth a try...

    Some yeas ago, I made a wooden router, based on an example Derek Cohen posted. I liked it waaay better than the 71, which soon found a new home. The original has since been replaced by this fancier version with a screw adjuster, which doesn't actually do anything better than vers 1 (but it does have more brass knobs ). 5 Done.jpg

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    48
    Posts
    157

    Default

    Thanks Ian

    I saw another post where you collaborated with Derek (?) when searching for info on this 71. All of them are beautiful looking tools! And a great collaboration too, it seems. Can never have too many brass knobs!

    I think I'll go for Blackwood then as I have quite a bit, and will use a 1/2" thick piece as Paul Sellers does. He uses Sapele. I was just tossing up whether or not to flatten the sole. It's almost as if there's a tiny, tiny bulge where each of the handles sit in the base, as it rocks forward and back (but not side to side). As long as I can seat the sole on the wooden base so that the cutting edge is parallel to the bottom of the base then it should be good. I'll probably be able to see some indentations if I press the sole hard down onto the base, that'll help work out how to seat the sole on the base properly I'm guessing. I'll flip the depth adjusting screw upside down too to reclaim some of the depth lost from the base so hopefully won't lose too much.

    At least I won't have to abrade all of the nickel plating off if I use a base.

    Thanks again for the advice, Ian.

    Regards Adam

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