Thread: A few Stanley 78 tips.

Nice post, thanks apricotripper!

I use my 78 often, but never took the time to put the spur to work. Insipred by your post, I'll give it a try now! Also, good point about "skeweing" the blade a bit!

Thanks!
Mariano

It's me again! Hi!

I kept thinking about adding a very little "skew" to the blade. Sometimes, I use my 78 on the opposite side. This is... putting the fence on the other side (right side of the plane), for doing the rebate on the left side of the plane. The few times I did this, it was only because of the grain orientation. For example, If I need to do a rebate on both sides of a 5" wide board, and one side goes perfectly smooth.. probably the other one will produce tear out.

So I was thinking that if I skew the blade, I wouldn't be able to do use the plane on the left side any more. Am I right, or I'm missing something?

Thanks a ton!
Mariano

Originally Posted by mbirnios

It's me again! Hi!

I kept thinking about adding a very little "skew" to the blade. Sometimes, I use my 78 on the opposite side. This is... putting the fence on the other side (right side of the plane), for doing the rebate on the left side of the plane. The few times I did this, it was only because of the grain orientation. For example, If I need to do a rebate on both sides of a 5" wide board, and one side goes perfectly smooth.. probably the other one will produce tear out.

So I was thinking that if I skew the blade, I wouldn't be able to do use the plane on the left side any more. Am I right, or I'm missing something?

Thanks a ton!
Mariano

Mariano

I think that you are right. Indeed, I think that Jake's thoughts on this point (or the similar one when using plough planes) have moved on from when he first posted these tips. I probably should let Jake answer for himself, but I think that rather than grinding a skewed cutting edge, he would now advise grinding the sides of the blade so that they flare slightly (ie are slightly wider at the edge than higher up). At least that is what I have assumed from this thread. This will enable you to line the corner of the edge accurately with either side of the mouth.

I dealt with the issue before by having two #78s, one skewed for use on the right edge and one on the left (remember to mark the plane so you know which is which!! - I used a permanaent marker to write L and R on them)!!! I suppose if you only have one plane, you could get a spare blade and set it up for use on the other side - mark the blades left and right!!

Good luck

First, credit where due: I found your article froma link at "http://lumberjocks.com/WayneC/blog/1422".

Thank you for the tips & time to provide them. They will provide most useful if I ever use my 78 to cut cabinet grade rabbets.

Alas, I am a barbarian - I use mine in the bullnose only position, for planing door jambs & stops (big rabbets), and doors where removal is not pactical. That is why I bought it.

One of the things I like about this forum is that six years after the original post, the topic is still useful. Yesterday I fettled my 78, and this forum provided a lot of the finer tips for ensuring that I got even better results than I was expecting.

Was there any outcome to the question abut 25 or a 35 degree angle for sharpening the blade?

Thanks to everyone here that contributed.

Craig

Does anyone here know if Hock or IBC have made blades for the Stanley 78?

Originally Posted by Morbius

Does anyone here know if Hock or IBC have made blades for the Stanley 78?

Don't think so, but Jim Davey will know.
Cheers
SG

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

Don't think so, but Jim Davey will know.
Cheers
SG

I haven't paid as much attention to the custom plane blade orders as I should have. Has there been any discussion about 78 blades? (I will look, but I might miss it, and there is a LOT of reading there )

I'll also ask Jim next time I email him.

Craig

Originally Posted by Morbius

I haven't paid as much attention to the custom plane blade orders as I should have. Has there been any discussion about 78 blades?

There were no No.78 irons in either of the "Stanley Replacement Blades" group buys.

I don't know about Hock or IBC, but Lie-Nielsen make replacement No.78 irons.

Cheers, Vann.

Vann,

Thanks for telling me about the L-N replacement blades. L-N always seem to make great stuff, so I won't hesitate to grab one of these.

Craig

I found another place to get a replacement blade. St James Bay Tool Co. ! $9.00 US on their Stanley Spare Parts page. A bit cheaper than L-N, but still generally pretty darned good quality if the rumours are true.

Can anyone confirm the quality of the St. James By Tool Co.'s blades?

Thanks!

Craig

I don't have any, but Derek might.
There is some discussion here:
St. James Bay Tool Co.

I have heard positives among the dispatches on the forums, but have never seen a review. My guess is that they would be at least as good as the original if not an improvement.
Cheers
SG

Originally Posted by Morbius

I found another place to get a replacement blade. St James Bay Tool Co. ! $9.00 US on their Stanley Spare Parts page. A bit cheaper than L-N, but still generally pretty darned good quality if the rumours are true.

Can anyone confirm the quality of the St. James By Tool Co.'s blades?

Thanks!

Craig

I have some St James Bay Tool Co blades for my Stanley #46 and they are quite good enough. Whether they are up to the quality of LN, I don't know, but I can get a good edge on them that lasts long enough. So I would say that you get value for money for their blades

I sharpen mine at 30 degrees.

SG,

Thanks for putting me onto that. One fellow speaks highly of their replacement blades for his 112.

Craig