Thread: Stanley Bailey No. 5 Restoration

Totally forgot, this plane was also missing the front screw on the tote when I found it so I'll need to source one of those too.

Some more pics will probably help with dating it but I'm pretty sure it's wartime or close after as the screws in the handles and tote are both one piece construction and lack the usual brass screws.

If your wanting to date a Stanley USA Hand Plane, the search starts with whats stamped on the iron.

Originally Posted by planemaker

If your wanting to date a Stanley USA Hand Plane, the search starts with whats stamped on the iron.

Good point. I originally thought the blade was blank but I just double checked and faintly made out a Pope marking. Not much help I'm afraid!

According to the Rex Mill type study it is likely to be a WW2 era type 17, see here.

That missing washer on the lateral adjuster is not going to be an easy fix; I've never seen one come adrift before and to re-rivet a replacement will require the whole lever to be removed anyway and re-riveted back into place. Your washer solution is probably the best, just add a drop of superglue to lock it in place. It doesn't need to rotate, just needs to fit in the blade slot.

As an alternative to trying to recreate the japanning high temperature engine enamel works well, it's not an amazing high gloss which screams "repaint" and once cured is a very robust finish.

I agree with the Chief, just find a washer that is thick enough to comfortably engage the blade slot and tack it in place with some superglue or epoxy, so it doesn't fall on the floor every time you remove the blade for sharpening. I would probably try very lightly peining the spigot to hold the washer rather than use glue, which is likely to crack & let-go sooner or later. However, to do that easily & safely, it would be wise to take the lever off. Then you have to re-rivet when you've got it fixed, of course. It's not difficult to do that, a soft nail of the right diameter makes a handy rivet, but you've got to pein carefully so as not to make the lever over-tight. Probably more fussing than necessary - I'm sure the glued washer would work....

Incidentally, the blade slots on older (pre-WW2) planes are a bit wider than on post-WW2 planes, but it really doesn't matter, just find (or make) a washer that fits your blade slot.

Cheers,

I would try to re-rivet first before epoxy as one wants some durability.

The priority is to use a disk/washer that fits snuggly inside the blade slot. Next, the rivet hole needs to be slightly narrower than the rivet at present.

The washer hub is in fact peened and, to do this, the washer hub (I cannot think of a correct term) needs to be slimmer than at present, which is its post-peened state. The question is "how to return it to pre-peened state"? I would try squeezing the metal with a vise grip or, failing this, try and tap it with a hammer against a backing. The latter is tricky as there is little space.

The second issue is to find a washer that fits the slot but is smaller than the hub. Some careful drilling may be needed. Use screws into scrap wood to clamp the edges before drilling.

An alternative to the above is to tap the hub for a domed screw, and use that to hold the washer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for all the recommendations everyone. I think I'm going to get some engineers steel rod, cut it to the correct thickness and then drill it out slightly undersized for the hub. Hopefully I can then press fit it onto the hub.