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Thread: Stanley block plane problems
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10th August 2014, 04:23 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Stanley block plane problems
I have an old Stanley block plane with adjustable mouth. The dimensions of the base are 160 x 150 , and the blade is 41 mm wide. It is made in England and has the numbers Q3X1 in the block under the blade.
Unfortunately I cannot align the blade horizontally with the base. It does not sit properly, with only 1/3 of the blade width cutting ( to one side). There does not seem to be any way of filing that part of the body that meets the blade just immediately adjacent to the throat.
Can anyone advise if this is repairable, and if not, can you please recommend a nice block plane not too expensiveregards,
Dengy
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10th August 2014 04:23 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th August 2014, 05:12 PM #2
Is the blade ground square? I can't quite picture what you're saying. Photos would help.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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10th August 2014, 06:44 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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thanks for this reply, NCArcher. Basically, if you hold the plane upside down, and look along the sole from the front, you will only see 1/3 of the blade sticking up on the LH side.
With the sole upside down still, look straight down on the mouth from above, and you see the blade sitting squarely in the mouth, as you should, with a uniform gap from the front of the mouth to the sharp cutting edge of the blade.
The blade is ground square with a Veritas Mk II guide, and checked with a small Engineer's square.
I think the problem is the rough finish of the casting where the blade sits on the casting just before the mouth. That surface is obviously not in the same plane as the sole, but tilted slightly. There is no room to get a flat file on it.
I hope this explains the problem. If not, will get some pics tomorrow.regards,
Dengy
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10th August 2014, 07:00 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Think I had tha problem with my blue USA made Stanley LAB plane however I could get a file on mine- with all the mouth plate and other bits removed.
Maybe just grind the blade out of square to suit the mouth and be done withit.
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11th August 2014, 03:04 AM #5
FF had an issue like this probably about a year ago ... he might see this ...
Ahah ... https://www.woodworkforums.com/168905...plane-dilemma/
Cheers,
Paul
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11th August 2014, 08:05 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for this link Paul. As usual, Derek Cohen summarises the problem and the solution nice and succinctly here
Interesting to know that it is a problem that is not uncommon, with a steel cutter trying to sit flat on a rough casting which has been poorly machined.
Putting feelers out to the family to get a WoodRiver black plane from Jim Davy for Father's Day. He fettles and tunes them prior to delivery - a huge plusregards,
Dengy
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11th August 2014, 08:47 PM #7
Have a look at Jim's refurbished Stanleys with an IBC blade. similar price to the WoodRiver. I can recommend the Stanley No.65 LAB with a knuckle cap. My favourite block plane. (I have 2 Actually, my second favourite. I really like the No.140. Have 4 of those)
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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11th August 2014, 10:57 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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The dimensions of the base are 160 x 150 , and the blade is 41 mm wide. It is made in England and has the numbers Q3X1 in the block under the bladeregards,
Dengy
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13th August 2014, 06:54 AM #9
Stanley 60-1/2 I think ...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STANLEY-6...01159998&rt=nc
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stanley-l...412b13e&_uhb=1
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19th August 2014, 08:38 PM #10Member
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19th August 2014, 09:03 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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The blade is definitely ground square, as measured on a little Engineers square. Too late for pics, I have sent it off to Jim Davy to fix, if it is possible. Anyway, pics don't show the problem.
Tip your plane upside down, and you should see a uniform gap between the sharp edge of the blade and the front edge of the mouth if you have set it properly. That is what my block plane looks like.
Now, adjust the blade so it protrudes through the mouth and a thin sliver of shaving is taken off a scrap piece of wood. Next, with the plane upside down, look along the sole of the plane at eye level from the front. If the blade is set properly, the blade will protrude uniformly out of the mouth and the sharp edge will be parallel to the sole.
In my case, only a 1/3 of the blade protrudes for a fine sliver setting, even though there is a uniform gap in the mouth. It is all to do with the bed that the blade sits on at the rear of the mouth not being machined properly.
Hope this explains the problem for you
Can be fixed, but takes a fair bit of skill with a file. I don't have this required level of skill with hand tools.regards,
Dengy
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29th August 2014, 08:51 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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GREAT JOY !!!
My little old Stanley block plane arrived back from Jim Davey this week, complete with new IBC blade. What a joy to use, sharp as, and the blade is dead level with the sole of the plane and the sharp edge is parallel to the mouth. What a craftsman Jim is to get this set up and tuned properly !
Only problem is the top end of the new IBC blade is cut at an angle, and that corner digs into the ball of the thumb on either hand, most uncomfortable. Will have to grind that end to match the old Stanley blade curved profile, I think.
I am confident enough now to use it on some stringing, as it just whisks super-thin shavings, and will then finish with the scraper to get it dead level with the surrounding timber as suggested above
Thanks to everyone for their contribution, very much appreciatedregards,
Dengy
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3rd October 2014, 09:18 AM #13Senior Member
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Old block pains vs new one single block plane.
My restoration experience is "most" old block pains were mass produced cheap and are too thin and not worth the effort to modify.
I struggled trying to repair a couple block pains as well. I personally stick to restoring #2, 3, 4 ect on up they are worth the effort.
After pricing and researching block planes online...
I finally went to the local store the demo in my large hand was very comfortable for a block plane.
I chose a new low angle Stanley sweetheart 60 1/2 that performed great out of the box.
Was there any tuning? A light honing and I'm currently reading news print through the shavings.
The machining is so precise and square its almost sharp where the cheeks meet the sole.
A gentle rub with a super fine silicone carbide stone took care of that.
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