Stanley Plane #7 Should I cut it into a #6? or fill the pits somehow?

**woodhog** · 26th January 2011, 09:02 AM

I purchased an approx 100 yr old Stanley #7 severely neglected plane $25.00
Suprisingly after prewarming the metal the plane body, it survived mild propane torch heat. The frog and tote, and bailey machine screw were all rusted solid and needed extra help and leverage using a socket screwdriver. Nerve wrecking just waiting for the snap of metal.
The plane body sole is approx 3/16" thick at both ends. The sole has a 3 1/2" patch of deep 1/16" or more rust pitting the width of the plane at the very end behind the rear tote handle.
Very little 1/32" deep pitting near the narrow mouth can be lapped out.
Surface grinding will be too much expense for a plane in such poor condition.
The frog still has a frozen screw holding a bailey guide that is good functional shape. The blade and cap iron are most likely trashed.
The rosewood knob is a beauty and the rear tote handle needs glued typical.
Can I fill the pitting with solder or brazing or should I simply cut the pitted waste metal off then grind the end to shape making it an odd size #6 with an extra 1 1/2" or so extra metal beyond the front tote knob when measured near a #6
I plan to sandblast the paint left off and leave the patina that the brass wire wheel and buffer left me on the cheeks.

**seanz** · 26th January 2011, 10:28 AM

Is the pitting worse than this?
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/s...-abuse-127544/

**Vann** · 26th January 2011, 11:34 AM

Originally Posted by woodhog

I purchased an approx 100 yr old Stanley #7 severely neglected plane $25.00
Can I fill the pitting with solder or brazing or should I simply cut the pitted waste metal off then grind the end to shape...

A) I wouldn't bother trying to fill the pitting. IMO you're more likely to cause more damage, possibly making it unusable.

B) I wouldn't cut the end off either. It won't do any harm (unless it won't fit in your toolbox

). Just leave it and see how well it performs for you. You can always cut it off at a later date, but you can't ever put it back on.

Just my 2c worth.

Cheers, Vann.

**woodhog** · 26th January 2011, 03:53 PM

Not pitted that bad or deep.

**Mr Brush** · 26th January 2011, 04:00 PM

Put the time and effort into getting the sole nice and flat - some pitting where you describe is unlikely to affect the function of the plane

I wouldn't go hacking any lumps off it either !!

**Scribbly Gum** · 26th January 2011, 04:18 PM

Can it possibly be any worse than this one:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/s...-abuse-127544/

You can see that even planes that look beyond help can be brought back from the grave.
They don't look pretty, but they can work
Cheers
SG

**Mr Brush** · 26th January 2011, 04:26 PM

SG - your example just shows that, as long as the sole is flat, pitting is a useful alternative to a corrugated sole for reducing friction.....

Particularly useful on a No. 7 !

Its not a fault...its an enhancement !!

**Woodlee** · 26th January 2011, 06:42 PM

I would not cut it off ,just leave the pitting where it is, it's not going to affect the plane at all .
I wouldnt spend too much time flattening it either ,just make sure it's ok around the mouth area ,No 7 is for planing large lumpy boards and a perfectly flat sole is not really neccesary.

Kev.

**jimbur** · 26th January 2011, 07:09 PM

Remember some people like corrugated soles.
Cheers,
Jim

**Woodlee** · 26th January 2011, 08:19 PM

I used to wear ripple soles once ,along time ago.

Kev.

**Zsteve** · 26th January 2011, 10:31 PM

hows that stuck screw going? some soaking can help, various liquids can be used.

But some carefully appllied heat can work wonders. you could heat a rod red hot and apply it to the screw head, even a couple of times. let it cool a good while and give it a try with a well sized screw driver.

**msiemsen** · 27th January 2011, 10:03 AM

I wouldn't worry about the pitting. You could probably fill it with JB weld if it bothers you.
Sorry Mr. Brush but corrugated soles do not reduce friction. They do make it easier to flatten a plane sole as there is less metal to remove.
Mike

**GazPal** · 27th January 2011, 11:22 AM

Originally Posted by msiemsen

I wouldn't worry about the pitting. You could probably fill it with JB weld if it bothers you.
Sorry Mr. Brush but corrugated soles do not reduce friction. They do make it easier to flatten a plane sole as there is less metal to remove.
Mike

Corrugation can and does tend to help when planing Teak and other resinous (Sticky) timbers due to reduced surface area.

**woodhog** · 27th January 2011, 11:36 AM

The bailey screw that has a groove or dado came out reluctantly. The small slotted pan or cap head screw holding the adjusting clip shaped like the letter H is there for another 100 yrs. The slot is distorted and I dont fancy drilling the little machine screw out and extracting it. The adjusting H shape bailey clip seems fine and functional. If it aint broke dont fix it.

**Ian Wells** · 30th January 2011, 05:38 PM

Originally Posted by woodhog

The bailey screw that has a groove or dado came out reluctantly. The small slotted pan or cap head screw holding the adjusting clip shaped like the letter H is there for another 100 yrs. The slot is distorted and I dont fancy drilling the little machine screw out and extracting it. The adjusting H shape bailey clip seems fine and functional. If it aint broke dont fix it.

I use a brace with a slot headed bit to remove screws like that, I can put my 95+ kgs of weight onto the screw and the brace gives huge leverage and torque
Ian

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