Thread: The Second Stanley Plane Blade Order

The blades arrived on Friday and I tried them on my planes last night. As some have already mentioned the slot on the blade is too narrow (by ~1 mm). It looks like the slot is not centred on the blade and the ~1 mm needs to be taken off one side only. This looks like a machining fault to me. I compared the blades to the hock blades that I ended up getting (for the same price - 2nds from woodworkers supply). The hocks are fine.

Also the the slot on the cap iron for advancing the blade is too narrow as already mentioned. What is the point of giving people headaches like this? Anyway, I will try to use the cap irons with the hock blades by filing the small slot for the advancer.

What a complete stuff up - we waited 2 years and they are not fit for purpose. Better off paying double the price - getting them within weeks and working perfectly.

There was an Austpost Christmas weekend delivery today and my blades arrived this morning.

One of the cap irons suffered a chip during transit, the edge having bumped against one of the other cap screws.

It looks like the leading edges of the cap irons might be a tad brittle, they are quite blued at the bevel and I'm not sure if that is a result of the grinding process or were they heat treated someway after grinding? I guess it will be a relatively easy matter to regrind the edge?

....(Update)
I've now tried mix and match with the blades across my available plane bodies and I haven't got an as supplied fit for a single plane. All will need the lateral adjust slot tweaked and it also looks like the depth adjuster holes will also need to be opened up a touch, but can't be certain until the adjuster goes in the slot.

Originally Posted by aju

The blades arrived on Friday and I tried them on my planes last night. As some have already mentioned the slot on the blade is too narrow (by ~1 mm). It looks like the slot is not centred on the blade and the ~1 mm needs to be taken off one side only. This looks like a machining fault to me. I compared the blades to the hock blades that I ended up getting (for the same price - 2nds from woodworkers supply). The hocks are fine.

Also the the slot on the cap iron for advancing the blade is too narrow as already mentioned. What is the point of giving people headaches like this? Anyway, I will try to use the cap irons with the hock blades by filing the small slot for the advancer.

What a complete stuff up - we waited 2 years and they are not fit for purpose. Better off paying double the price - getting them within weeks and working perfectly.

I do not know what you are going on about, it took me a couple of minutes to widen the slot for the side way adjustment, infact the difference from my original blade was no more than 1/2 mm. To widen the gap a couple of seconds on each side of the opening with a emery disk in a angle grinder and it fitted like a glove with out any side slop as occured on the fist batch order. If you try to file it you will be wasting your time as the steel is so hard the file wont tough it. You could try rotary emery bits in a drill.
There is no comparison on the quality of the steel with the Stanley blades you buy over the counter, this is the point of this enterprise.
Regards
Mac

Originally Posted by Malcolm Eaton

I do not know what you are going on about, it took me a couple of minutes to widen the slot for the side way adjustment, infact the difference from my original blade was no more than 1/2 mm. To widen the gap a couple of seconds on each side of the opening with a emery disk in a angle grinder and it fitted like a glove with out any side slop as occured on the fist batch order. If you try to file it you will be wasting your time as the steel is so hard the file wont tough it. You could try rotary emery bits in a drill.
There is no comparison on the quality of the steel with the Stanley blades you buy over the counter, this is the point of this enterprise.
Regards
Mac

I have Hock blades not stanley and they very thick and have no slop in the slot. I got these for about $30 each instead of the normal $50-60. In any case I will whip out my grinder or try my foredom with the sanding attachment on these blades. I managed to widen the slot on the cap iron with a diamond file. They are OK now and work fine with the hock blades.

Originally Posted by Malcolm Eaton

..... To widen the gap a couple of seconds on each side of the opening with a emery disk in a angle grinder and it fitted like a glove with out any side slop ...
Regards
Mac

Hi Mac,
Care to elaborate on this technique for the less metalhead inclined among us. I've got a 120mm ozito angle grinder that I've previously used mostly on masonry. Do you mean to use the solid metal grinding discs or to get a sanding type disk that backs thin paper disks?

Is it hard to control a disk fitting into the slot? I'd hate to see it jamb in the blade and send it careerring around the room. It would seem a solid disk would be easier to control, but I wonder about being able to handle it safely in a thin slot.

(update edit)
I bought a stainless steel metal grinding disk for the angle grinder this morning. I have now used it to open up the blade slot on my 2"blade and things fit together a bit better but more work is required. A steady hand is needed to guide the grinder into the slot before cutting and then only a light touch is needed to make a couple of passes on the slot sides. I held the blade horizontally in the bench front vise which was at a good height for doing the deed and I flipped the blade over between sides so I only applied down pressure when grinding the slot. The slot edges were left a bit ragged and needed a bit of a cleanup, for that I used the little grinder head that came with the aldi dremel clone.

The slot in the cap iron for the adjuster only needs a tiny tweak. Because of the thicker blade the tounge of the adjuster doesn't poke through as far as in a standard blade and cap combo. If the slot is opened up to the size in the standard cap iron there will be a lot of play because the tounge is thinnest at the tip which is now just engaging the cap iron.

I havent taken a test cut yet as I now need to open up the plane mouth. Adjusting the frog back didn't seem to make enough room to get the blade to work on any of the 4 plane bodies I tried, two each of a 4 and 5.

I would advise strongly against using an angle grinder for opening up the blade slot. If the blade catches or digs in you will not be able to control it, & could be decorated with bits of disc or wear a blade.

I had a closer inspection of the Spokeshave blade this afternoon, as I wanted to try & fit this, & discovered a nick in the edge which was triangular in shape & around 1mm deep. The grinding on the bevel was also a bit agricultural with a fair burr on the back of the blade. So I set too and reground the bevel and honed and lapped. I suspect the nick in the blade has been caused either by a collision with another blade or during the grinding . the blades were well packed for delivery & there was no evidence of mishandling.

I tried to open up the two slots in the blades with a very small diamond burr in the Dremel but this just stripped the diamonds off the burr, and had little or no effect on the blade. So I resorted to thinning the collars on the adjusting nuts with a file, and put a fine dome on one side to allow the blade to tilt.

Unfortunately this will mean there is a lot more backlash if a standard blade is used.

Regards

Originally Posted by Basilg

I would advise strongly against using an angle grinder for opening up the blade slot. If the blade catches or digs in you will not be able to control it, & could be decorated with bits of disc or wear a blade.

1 down 2 to go.

I was somewhat apprehensive about trying the grinder. Clamping the blade was my biggest concern. I first tried my little metal vice but didn't think there was enough support. The bench front vice seemed the better option as the blade is supported for the full length.

The problem is trying to find a cost effective solution to the slot widening. As far as I'm concerned there is no point in an expensive solution that requires $$$ of diamond plates or files, I'd prefer at this stage to spend that much money on more Hock blades to be quite honest. Like AJU I had already bought a couple last year while waiting for this order to happen.

$3 for a grinding disc designed for stainless seems OK. It''s not trying to plunge cut or do anything out of design spec as I understand it. I'm not a metalhead though and would be concerned to find out that these grinding disks are not designed for this type of use. There is no need to jamb it in the slot, at a minimum it only really needs widening from the screw hole to about half way back. The 115mm flexovit disk is 6mm thick and the original slot is 11mm wide. There is room to move there.

Fuzzie

It is your decision. I suggest you give thought to what may happen if the blade catches and how you will or won't control it. I have seen, and worked with lots of tradesmen with bits missing,caused by a range of industrial accidents, who thought they were in control of a situation. With the benefit of hindsight, without exception they would not do the same again.

In my opinion the best test for doing anything is " would I be comfortable in having my child do this ?"

Regards

Time to add my 2c worth, after maintaining extreme tolerance and great restraint for the past 2 years.

Is it that the further away from Melbourne you are the less likely you are of having your order filled ? From an original order of 2 plane blades, 2 spokeshave blades and 2 cap irons + $11 postage + DJ $5 = $223, I only had 2 spokeshave blades delivered ($94 + $1.80 postage) and from previous postings, they're unsuitable without modification

I have a perfectly good Hock blade and thought I would take a punt on this order to give myself some spare blades that I could experiment with. Sometimes a gamble doesn't pay off and leaves a bitter taste in ones mouth. Thankfully I can absorb the financial loss and I'll put this down to experience and will only ever deal with reliable sources.

Derek

Pagie, past on a list of people who were short items. Your name was not on the list. I have sent him a email to ask why.

I am getting RayG to manufacture blades that are missing. If Pagie confirms that he did not send you your two 2 3/8” Blade & Cap Iron, I will have them manufactured at my cost and sent to you.

You will get what your ordered.

If anyone did not get all the items you ordered send me a PM and I will add those items to the list that RayG is making up.

I too have to report missing items- a 2 5/8" blade and chipbreaker. Whilst it may still be in the post as a seperate item, I think I need to be added to the list of those who have missed out recieving all their items.

I had a large order and received most of the plane blades and chip breakers on Thursday followed by 2 spokeshave blades on Friday in a seperate package. I am missing a 1 5/8' blade and matching chip breaker. I am still hoping that they may be coming on Monday or Tuesday. I also cant give any good news to others as I have not received any extra blades by accident.

Andy keep an eye out in the post, and if nothing comes in a week, PM me.

Do you mean 1 3/4"?

Originally Posted by Andy T

I am missing a 1 5/8' blade and matching chip breaker.

Originally Posted by Groggy

Pagie should in no way be disadvantaged for stepping up here.

Peter, please provide me with a list of people who had goods posted by you, along with your bank details and I will forward that to all members on the list.

Regarding Bulk Buys, read this post by the Forum Administrator

Did this message ever eventuate as I didn't receive a PM or email? Or is it back to each of us contacting Peter individually?

Originally Posted by Basilg

In my opinion the best test for doing anything is " would I be comfortable in having my child do this ?"

Wow, that must limit things for you a fair bit. I wouldn't be comfortable letting my kids use a table saw, yet I use one regularly.

I reckon the best test is "do I feel comfortable doing this?" And if the answer is no, then it's probably best you don't because the last thing you need to be when using an angle grinder is nervous. Cautious, yes.

A 100mm grinder is perfect for the job. Just take note of which way the blade rotates, cut against the rotation same as you do with any power tool, and don't position any meat in the direction it will travel if it grabs. Make sure you fit the auxiliary handle for extra control and wear safety glasses.