Thread: (Stanley) planes questions, please

Hi behai, welcome to the forum.

Originally Posted by behai

1. Does it mean that mine one is Stanley #5?

Yes.

Originally Posted by behai

2. There is Stanley #220 too. So does that mean there are actually 220 types of Stanley planes?

Almost . The Stanley system of numbering was a bit haphazard, but some bits make sense. Google Patrick's Blood & Gore for an entertaining few hours of trawling Stanley plane types

Originally Posted by behai

3. Do the numbers, #5, #4 etc have the same meaning between different planes manufacturers such as Stanley, Lie Nielsen, Veritas, etc?

Generally yes. Clifton, Lie-Nielsen use the same numbers for bench planes. Others vary a little e.g. a Record #4 is No.04; Rapier called theirs a 400; VB a 704; WS an A4; Woden a W4. Though some manufacturers used different systems, such as the length of their planes (in inches)

Originally Posted by behai

4. I tried mine out, on small surfaces, 15mm to 40mm wide, I cannot yet make even smoothing. I have not worked out what I have done wrong yet.

Now you've opened a can of worms. Generally modern Stanleys are of poor quality and require fettling before they perform well. Search that both on this site and via Google. Then you need to get your iron (blade) sharp and be able to keep it sharpened. Again, search this site and Google.

Originally Posted by behai

So what the primary different between block planes, jack planes and bench planes

Block planes are smaller and usually able to be held in one hand. They usually have a low bed angle, and have the iron fitted with the bevel up.
Bench planes are usually larger and have a rear handle as well as a front knob. Their irons are fitted with the bevel down. Bench planes come in a number of different types: No.3, No.4 & No.4 1/2 are smoothers; No.5 & No.5 1/2 are jacks; No.6 is a fore; No.7 & No.8 are try planes or jointers. But the function can to a degree be changed to suit you own preferences. The camber (or lack thereof) on the blade probably has more to do with the function than the size. For example: some people prefer a No. 5 1/2 as a smoother, and some use a huge No.7 for almost everything.

HTH.

Cheers, Vann.

Nice work Vann.

Stewie.

Hi Vann,

Thank you very much for the explanations. Quite a few new words (jargons) for me to learn and understand.

I will do more readings and practices, and hopefully I will have some more questions, and improve my skills

Thank you again and best regards.

...behai.

Hey Behai. Check out Lie- Nielson Aust. site, head for the DVD page, spend a little money on DVDs by David Charlesworth and Rob Cosman. If you grab a couple of them about how to use hand planes, I think you will find it money well spent. You are not only told the best way to do things, but are shown as well. Brent,.

Behai, I suggest that you will need to sharpen the blade of your plane if you have had trouble taking a shaving, as it will not be sharp straight from the shop where you bought it.

Sharp enough generally means sharpe enough to shave with, but depending on the wood you can get away with it a little blunter. then set it for a very very thin cut. Dont be fooled by what you previously thought was sharp, generally difficulties in taking a shaving come from a blunt blade.

Hi devils wood,

Thank you for your suggestion. I will look around first and see what available. I am thinking of getting chisels from them as well. So I might do it at the same time.

Hi Zsteve,

I have bought the Stanley honing kit: 14-050. I have sharpened the blade. I feel on in my fingers that it is sharper.

To set it for thin cut, should I just set the blade a tiny bit out of the mouth?

Thank you and best regards.

Hey Behai, to set a plane for a thin cut, you must start out with a razor sharp blade. Have it protrude slightly from the mouth and sighting down the sole, use the lateral adjustment lever to get the blade even from side to side. Then with the depth adjusting wheel draw the blade back until it is just below the sole. Place the plane on your work piece and start to plane the wood without any cutting .As you stroke the plane down the work, start to turn the wheel slowly to extend the blade. As the blade starts to come in contact with the wood, you will take off dust like shavings, but as you continue to turn out more blade you will get some loverly fine shavings. More blade out, heaver the shaving. With a very sharp blade, you should be able to take a shaving you can read through. There are different ways to see if the blade is sharp or not, from shaving hair off your arm with no effort, to slicing paper. I found out how sharp my blade was by watching the blood pour from my finger tips, after accidentally brushing against it. NOT recommended!!!!
Brent.