Stanley Planes & Woodworking Beginner (me)

**ank** · 23rd December 2012, 06:15 PM

Hi!

This is my first post here. I love the site and have been lurking for a while until the woodworking bug bit me and now I just can't be a spectator anymore!
I have zero experience with woodworking and I'm slowly learning. As part of my learning process I was lucky enough to acquire at a garage sale a set of five planes - two of which look ready to be used, and three that are quite rusty.

Now, this is the cringe-worthy part... When I got those planes I had no idea that a plane could be valuable... so I saw the rusty ones and pulled them apart and submerged them in a commercial rust converter solution. They seem to be fine, and mostly I'm interested in just using them.
Anyway, here's a photo of one of the planes as I was taking it apart. You can see the overall state/etc. All the rust is now gone and I'm looking to give them a chrome look. For that, I assume I can just sand the sole and sides of the plane until it gets 'chromey' enough, and then polish it (I'm guessing that's what they looked like when new). Would that be an acceptable way of proceeding? The guides I've seen around here are not very clear on the matter.
Also, is it harmful to your skin or health if you touch the dust you get when sanding a plane?

Finally, one of the planes has a screw on its base that is completely stuck. I don't have a picture of it right now, so I took one photo off the internet and marked in a red circle where the screw is. Now, I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that, or if it's just stuck from rust.

Thanks for your help and I'm very happy to be here!!!

Cheers,
-- ank

**Pac man** · 23rd December 2012, 06:47 PM

1st things first. Can you tell us the numbers and makers on the planes.

Next thing is i would recommend that you read at least one site that has a plane rehabbing page

Jim Davey Planes & Sharpening - Plane Fettling Notes

or
www.rexmill.com

Not sure from your post that u are aware that it is the base of the plane that is a reference surface which aids in flattening or smoothing the timber. It is important that the sole be flat(ish) more than shiny.

Please ask some more questions as well. Also more photos please

**Pac man** · 23rd December 2012, 06:56 PM

Also this one is a good thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/re...d-planes-8243/

This site is good too Hand Plane Restoration PAGE 1

**ank** · 24th December 2012, 03:02 PM

OK, first things first then!

Let me post photos of all of them.

First plane images:

**ank** · 24th December 2012, 03:46 PM

Second plane.

**jimbur** · 24th December 2012, 05:59 PM

Don't you dare tell us that you paid the labelled price - three pounds 40pence.

**Vann** · 24th December 2012, 06:13 PM

Originally Posted by jimbur

...the labelled price - three pounds 40pence.

68/- = three pounds, eight shillings (40 pence would be UK money) = $6.80 - a bargain, I paid $7.92 for mine* 4 years later and got a steel plated depth adjustment wheel for my troubles

.

* I've still got the box with the price tag.

Cheers, Vann

Merry Christmas all

**ank** · 24th December 2012, 06:18 PM

There you go! I'm already learning

Had no idea 68/- was the price - what's the name of that pricing system? I really want to learn more about that! Will post the rest of the photos asap.

**ank** · 24th December 2012, 07:11 PM

And here is the photos for the last 3 planes, which were very rusty and I had in a rust converter.

1.jpg
2.JPG
3.JPG
4.JPG
5.JPG
6.JPG
7.JPG

**jimbur** · 24th December 2012, 07:11 PM

Originally Posted by Vann

68/- = three pounds, eight shillings (40 pence would be UK money) = $6.80 - a bargain, I paid $7.92 for mine* 4 years later and got a steel plated depth adjustment wheel for my troubles

.

* I've still got the box with the price tag.

Cheers, Vann

Merry Christmas all

OMG I'm in the wrong country. Saw Sheffield and didn't think further.

Happy Christmas all.

**ank** · 25th December 2012, 09:12 AM

I looked it up (after asking around) and the "/-" bit means shillings - that is, a twentieth of a pound. So 20/- is one pound, 60/- is three pounds and 68/- is 3.40 pounds.
What I'm wondering now is how old the plane is, considering how much inflation there seems to have been accrued meanwhile. Maybe 1969 as it says on the box?

**ank** · 25th December 2012, 09:22 AM

Some other updates: been cleaning up the sole of the disassembled planes using a sander. I can almost see the metal now. Once it's a bit cleaner I will measure it carefully and make sure it's true

. I don't know what to do with the inside, though - I know nothing about jappaning and to be honest would much rather not touch the inside finish, if possible.
As for the screw, it seems like it won't budge, but I'm fairly sure it should be adjustable (please correct me if I'm wrong.)
If you guys were looking for more numbers/etc from them, I cant' see anything else that is not pictured in the photos - but I'll take a closer look anyway.
Any and all help very appreciated.

I've downloaded the ebook of Hack's 'The Handplane Book' which seems to be the de rigueur reference for these tools, but I would much rather get practical information from real people who know what they are doing

Should I bother appraising any of these items? I probably already killed any value they had

**Vann** · 25th December 2012, 04:54 PM

Originally Posted by jimbur

OMG I'm in the wrong country. Saw Sheffield and didn't think further.

Happy Christmas all.

Actually you may have been correct. We (in New Zealand) changed from pounds, shillings and pence in 1967, and in Australia in 1966. In 1969 only the UK still had the old currency (they changed in in 1969 or 1971 - can't remember which).

So, though now in Australia, the plane may have been originally purchased in UK, at that price.

Sorry to be off topic.

Cheers, Vann.

**jimbur** · 25th December 2012, 05:03 PM

Thanks Vann. A very welcome act of charity this Christmas.

**pmcgee** · 25th December 2012, 05:42 PM

Originally Posted by ank

As for the screw, it seems like it won't budge, but I'm fairly sure it should be adjustable (please correct me if I'm wrong.)

Best not to be in a hurry to loosen it ... spray with CRC - WD40 - etc ... and make sure you have a screwdriver with a head that matches the bolt well.

Try a little bit to both tighten and loosen the bolt ... but not too much ... then squirt it and leave it for a day or a few hours. Then repeat.

Once it's loose it'll be fine. Then you can remove the bolt and clean the hole.

Cheers,
Paul

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