Thread: Old Stanley's to tune up

Andy good score

They should look spot on when cleaned up. Soaking everything but the wood and brass is ok.

There are a number of electrolysis threads on here which should fill you in sorry don't have the links.

Will you be Japaning or painting?

Andy I've seen Jim Davey put the blade and chip breaker in.

I usually use and underbed container (long and flat). You can loop the parts together on an old coat hanger and do them at once. For example take the tote rod out and put it in the knob hole. Secure both ends of the wire loop with the frog, blade and chip breaker looped thru various holes. The tote bolt will be your negative terminal.
next go up the street to the building site and find some of the black strapping that they tie bricks together with. Rub the black off to expose the steel with sandpaper.this can be used as the positive terminal.
the soda is at Coles in the detergent isle.
fill her up, hook it up and off you go.

whats you plan re power supply?

Also majorpanic has an easy to follow electrolysis method both on the web and the forum

Thanks Paul.
I was wondering what I was going to use on the positive terminal, your idea sounds great.

I'm going to find a cheap battery charger for the power source, any ideas where I can find one? I've looked on eBay but thats about it. I've also read MP's, it's excellent with great tips!

I might have to call you up to come around Paul before I go ahead to make sure I'm doing it right.

Cheers

BobL has posted a number of times that " The problem with most new 12V vehicle battery chargers is they won't supply any juice unless there is something like a 12V battery in parallel."
Something to do with load sensing in charger.

You could use this

or a PC power supply. BobL's post explains his process for the PC power supply driven electrolysis here

Let me know if you need a hand

Also here is Bob Kaunes bedrock type study I'd say a type 8 due to the raised ring on the front. Do you have a big or small adjustment wheel? As this may indicate that earlier parts may have been used.

And a HPTAA article on electrolysis

Thanks for the help.
I've done some further research and I believe it's either a type 5, 6 or 6a (1911-1922). The square design was introduced with the type 5 and the patent dates changed in the type 7.

It's hard to know exactly what type it is because the main difference between the 5, 6 and 6a is markings on the iron, the iron I have is a SW so it's not the original.


Edit- according to the below website it's a 6a as the SW logo matches mine. These were made in 1922 and 1923.

Stanley Bed Rock Plane Types - Bob Kaune - Antique & Used Tools

After some research and comments in this thread there seems to be better options than using a car battery charger. Done anyone have suggestions and links to these options?

Paul- the product that you linked, how does that work? Does it have a positive/negative terminal and work just like a car battery charger?


Thanks,
Andy

Unit works by mains power.You need two leads to attach to the unit at the points on the front. One for positive, one for negative. Then screw to plane and metal or use alligator clips being wary of making sparks. This unit is similiar to the unit in majorpanics post but i dont think Dick Smith sell them anymore.

I did try a spare computer power supply for you with no luck. BobL's post is easily followed on how to do it.

I rather misfired putting this in the citric acid thread: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/r...ml#post1590501

It has a good link on electrolysis and making a current-limited power supply.

Cheers,
Paul