Thread: Storage of hand tools (warning - lots of tool !)

Originally Posted by derekcohen

BC

yes, a 1957 356 "A" coupe. I've been working on it, on-and-off for about 6 years now. It's in reasonably good condition, runs well, but off the road at this time until I repair a bearing. Looked like hell when I got it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

very nice Derek

Is that the speedster or the cabrio and if yes do you happen to live in Mt Pleasant? I saw what I thought was one the other day in someones garage as I was riding past.

how long did the restoration take?

Clint

Hi Clint

I think I know the speedster you refer to - silver with a cowl. Simply stunning. Mine is a lowly (by comparison) coupe, but I think the "A" coupe has the sweetest lines of them all. Did you know that this is the car that inspired the design of the Audi TT? I have been in love with this model for over 25 years and, when the opportunity came up to buy this one very cheaply, I just jumped at it. Little did I know just how much work it would require! I have spent about 6 years restoring the car to date - I've done all the panel beating and painting and a fair bit of the mechanicals. A full on pro paint job lies in the future when I can justify the expense. Ditto the upholstry (in reasonably good nick but old and tired). The motor has been rebuilt, as have all the electrics. Nothing says dedication more than 2 weeks flat on your back scraping rusty flakes off the underside while breathing in dust and crap. The car now runs quite well, and I drive it when I can. But currently it languishes in the garage .. uh.. workshop .. until I can repair a worn bearing.

Regards

Derek

Derek

The coupe is still a stunner, like pretty much every porsche model. But the old classics are still a favourite.

Great to see you did the work yourself, I think you would get more satisfaction that way.

I'm looking at starting out on a 1956 VW beetle my fiance's father has had since new, just have to find the time. The car is in ok condition at the moment, still gets driven occasionally. but needs a bit of body work and a new interior. Plus it is 6 volt, so i am considering converting it to 12 volt to make it a bit more user friendly. the engine and gearbox are still original and it still runs well so again it is a question of how far I want to go with it in terms of rebuilds.

Clint

Hi Clint

I know this is a bit off topic here, but if you want some info how making the VW user-friendly and still keeping the original 6 volt system (it is a BIG to do to change over to 12 volt), then ping me a PM and we can chat. I've been down that road (stayed with 6v).

Regards

Derek

Derek & Clint,
my brother and his mates used to play with VWs for quite some time years ago and they used to change everything to 12V except the starter motor. This made the changeover easier as well as starting on cold mornings. None of them ever burnt out a starter motor either.

Mick

Mick and Clint

Here are a few observations about a 6 to 12 volt conversion. This is what would be necessary for a Porsche 356. I assume it would be the same for a VW. Bottom line = expensive.

You will need:
1) 12 volt generator.
2) 12 volt voltage regulator.
3) The 6 volt starter will work electrically in the 12 volt car but it starts with so much force that over time it will chew up the flywheel gear.
4) 12 volt coil.
5) 12 volt wiper motor or rheostat/voltage reducer.
6) voltage reducers for instruments.
7) 12 volt light bulbs for the whole car.
8) 12 volt turn signal flasher.
9) 12 volt relays.
10) re-wire horns from parallel to series. To do this, run the ground wire from one horn to the power supply of the other horn, disconnecting its power supply wire and taping it off.
11) 12 volt battery.
12) Radio. Many radios of this era were designed to switch from 6 to 12 volts. If not, you will need a step down converter.

The alternative to the above, that is if you wish to keep you 6 v system, is to
1) Clean all connections. Very clean.
2) Get an Optima battery. More cranking power than most 12 volt batteries!! Car will start instantly.
3) Add a relay system for your lights - 50% brighter on the same bulbs.
4) Clean all connections (I said that already, but it is the single-most important feature).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks guys

Yeh I thought I was up for a bit of change over. But I figured with VWs I shouldn’t have too much trouble finding generators, starters and the like, and probably fairly cheaply. From my experience they all seem to be fairly interchangeable. I used to have a taipan beach buggy with the 1600 motor and was able to use parts from other models, to some degree anyway. I actually used a fair few extra parts off the 1956 1200 that my partners dad had accumulated over the years. So I had thought that while it would be a pain it would be doable.

My concerns were of course in keeping it original. I by no means want a show car, more just something reliable that can be driven around. Also there is the sentimental value for my partner, as her dad had it from new and then she had it for about 10 years after she got her license. She still tells me it is nicer to drive than my nissan diesel 4wd, but i think she is just anti 4wd.

But with keeping it at 6 v I was concerned with the dim headlights and the slow wipers. It still starts ok, but I had always noticed a difference in the way the 6v starter motor turned over compared to my 12v. However given there was 16 years difference in age it could be expected. The other problem I have is that the mechanical fuel pump packed it in a while ago. We had tried to source another one but not with a lot of luck. Although we probably could have looked a bit harder. Presently it has a 12volt electric fuel pump wired up to a 12 volt battery.

But given your comments above, I think I might give the 6 volt option a bit more consideration, and try and source a mechanical fuel pump, or perhaps a 6 volt one. I hadn’t really considered adding a relay but might give that a try and give the connectors a clean.

two points, firstly envious of the tool collection, and layout. Maybe one day i will not be ashamed to show my collection.

Secondly, I think it would be a shame to convert the VW to 12v. These cars are quickly becoming classics, and I mean REAL classics. I would strive to keep it as original as I could. Thats my 2c worth anyhow.

Outback

I agree with you whole-heartedly. Any modifications should be (1) reversable, and (2) to make the car more useable but within the spirit of the era. A man once called me up to enquire if he could buy my 356. He said he had plans to "make it look more like a 911". You can guess what I said to him

This goes for classic hand tools as well. Don't do anything that can't be reversed to collectable tools (e.g. it is OK to change blades in a plane but not OK to repaint). If you have a yen to modify (as I often do!) then do so to the commonly available items.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Meanwhile back to the main topic.

Do you have one of these in them there cupboards.
Another plane

(If yes, please advise of when your'e not at home and any security I need to made aware of)

Outback

I've never actually seen a #1 in the flesh. I've been told that it is like using a black plane, only you can't get you fingers into the handle to grip it. Lie Nielsen actually sell one, and you can find it on their website:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html...74646305326766

I have handled a #2, and this was small enough.

Who buys then? I cannot imagine that they are for anyone other than a collector since there are so many other planes around that would do a better job, and the cost of one is enough to equip an entire workshop. But if you think that is expensive, how about a Stanley #164 for $2361 USD (that's US dollars): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...101020888&rd=1

You could buy 10 new LN equivalents for that price: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html...74646305326766

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have a No2 and I use it quite a bit mainly on smaller pieces. No2's are small and I can only imagine how small a No1 would be. My No2 gets a good workout regularly.

It is one of my favourite planes and it is quite often the one I reach for firstly especially for jobs such as when making drawers in the last fiddly stages of fine tuning. I have also used it when making small thin solid panels for the bottoms of boxes.

I agree that perhaps some people may buy tools purely for visual appreciation but I appreciate my tools for their looks and performance - each to their own. If my No2 was stolen or lost I would not hesitate buying another one.

- Wood Borer

Wood Borer

Very interesting to read your opinion regarding the #2. I don't think I would go out and buy the LN #2 (which I suspect you have), certainly not spend big $$$ on a Stanley. I would not say no to one if it were a pressie (the LN is a stunner) or I came across one at a garage sale cheaply (fat chance!). It is just that I struggle to visualise myself actually using one on a practical level. Besides, I have alternatives - as a small high angle smoother I would turn to my Mugingfang mini smoother. And for a standard 45 degreer I would use a Stanley #18 block plane. Or a Stanley #3.

How do you hold the #2. Can you get your mitts around the handle? One-handed or two?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

I use both hands on my LN No 2 however I don't always wrap my hand around the rear handle - just across it.

Next time I am in Perth I will bring it across with me.

- Wood Borer