Thread: Storing tools on whiteboard without rusting

While I can't answer that as well as I'd like, here are the results of some testing I (ok, daughter too, school assignment etc etc) have been doing:

The pics below show the effects of various anti-rust treatments on brand-name 100mm zinc passivated bugle head batten screws. The screws were all (except for the controls) stripped of their zinc plate by dunking in hydrochloric acid for three minutes, then rinsed in boiling caustic soda solution to neutralise any acid and make sure there was nothing organic left on them. They were then given a final rinse in boiling water, followed by a quick drying in an oven at 150 degrees C.

The (still warm from the oven) screws were then treated with some of the (possible) anti rust agents I had on hand - G15 Rust Preventative, CRC Soft Seal, Black epoxy Spray Enamel, Lanotech, Clear Acrylic Automotive spray paint, Paraffin oil, U-Beaut Traditional Wax and Petroleum Jelly.

The last 10mm or so of each screw was untreated (gotta hold it somewhere!!)

The products used:

rust3.JPG

After treating the screws with their chosen preventative, they were popped into holes in a pine roofing batten, and left outside over the shallow tray that still had the hydrochloric acid used to strip the zinc - theory being that the acid fume would speed up rusting. After a week, rain had washed the acid away, so I gave them all a misting with salt water solution as an added invitation to the rust gods.

The pics show how they looked after four weeks outside. (they were all dark grey/black after the acid bath; I'm presuming this is smutting from - possibly - the carbon content in the steel, but I'm really just guessing. I'd like to do it again but wire brush them to get back to a more metallic finish).

(NB - original idea pinched from another thread here, which I can't find at the moment!)

Thanks for this MS, very interesting. The G15 looks the best from the pics, is that how it turned out in real life? Where do you buy it from?

I was surprised the Traditional Wax didn't fare as well. I would have liked to see the results with SilverGlide and Becketts Wax, which is supposed to be the best

I have only used Carmellia Oil and G-15 as my rust prevention routine. I found the G-15 to be better in the long term.

Not a very complex test but I do not have a school project to hand in.

I purchased my cans of G-15 from the tool sales in Sydney about 2 years ago. Here is some more information on the product, Home .

MS's test is perhap a bit more severe than your tool storage situation, Jill, though tropical climates, especially if you are within a bull's roaar of the sea would be about as bad as it can get! Here in Brisbane I've found hanging ferrous metals on the wall is just inviting trouble, most of the year. But since I've had a decent shed and stored my tools in drawers within cupboards, I've had fewer problems. I use pastewax on saw blades & the like, but I reckon simply limiting air-exchange is one of the easiest & most effective means of minimising rusting. I would get all ferrous tools off those peg boards and into containers. Using a barrier like paste wax won't affect glue & finishes, and helps, but nothing will be 100%. Any barrier needs replenishing when you put the tool away, and if you are really fussy, use a dessicant in the tool box, but they are of limited value in high humidity, as they soon lose effectiveness, unless you replenish almost daily...

Edit: Also be careful what the tools are in contact with. Many of our woods are full of tannins and other nasties, and can really do a number on clean steel! I have a saw with an ugly mark caused by sitting against Northern Silky Oak. So now I also spray any wood surfaces the tools rest on with Lanotec, or slather them with a good dose of paste wax, which seems to help.

My 2c,

The way I look at it, tools on the wall are about halfway between being outside, and being put up. An enclosed storage place is always better. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on everything, and it has never let me down. And I live in a hot and humid environment, with a swamp behind me, a lake in front, and a salt marsh less than 100 yards to one side. Clean, wax, and put away, and they will stay rust free and ready to use, with no pre-cleaning required.

Toby

Good works MS and daughter.

In the second photo with the 6 screws, what protectant was used on the screw with no label?

I'd like to do it again but wire brush them to get back to a more metallic finish)

This is a good idea, the cycle you have put the bugle heads through is effectively a cycle used for metal blueing and the black will be FeO which is a weak protectant so starting from bare metal would be more representative.

I'd also be interested in getting some G15, any WA-ites know where one can get it here?

Carba Tec Melbourne - Osbourne Ave, Springvale, VIC.
Frankston Bearings - Hartnett Drive, Seaford, VIC.
K&K Steel - Frankston Flinders Rd, Hastings. VIC.
Carrolls Woodcraft Supplies - Murradoc Rd, Drysdale, VIC.
Carba Tec Brisbane - Ingleston Rd, Wakerley, QLD.
Beyond Tools - Malaga, Perth, WA.

From here.

Toby

The unlabeled screw is the lanotec coated screw (again) - I was too lazy to crop it out of that pic...they are all on the one piece of wood, but it doesn't lend itself to being photographed close up in one pic.

I'm quite impressed with how the petroleum jelly is holding up - but the G15 is the clear winner in the non-paint stakes. I'll see how its sunlight and salt spray proof claims hold up! I can't see any rust on the G15 sample, there's no sign of it cissing (the way the Traditional Wax did) or succumbing to warmth and gravity (the way the paraffin oil did). Only drawback (like the petrolem jelly, soft seal and wax coatings) is that it does pick up airborne dust and grit. I'll be interested to see if this grit forms nuclei for corrosion over time.

PROTIP: Buy the G15 at the woodworking show, as it can't be shipped economically! (flammable product).

Having said all that - for tools that don't get a lot of 'rub over a surface' use there's something to be said for a coat of clear acrylic spray paint!

Thanks guys.

Buy the G15 at the woodworking show, as it can't be shipped economically! (flammable product).

How would you buy it if you are living in North Qld?

By paying $40 for hazardous goods road freight....

Did you see FWW (I think) did a test like this on metal plates ... only 2 or 3 weeks I think.

WD40 did (surprisingly?) well - 2nd I think.
I like it on old cast iron, but the shiny metal lathe/mill guys don't like it for their equipment.

Nice test. Maybe Dr Karl will come visit
Paul.

Hi Jill, can't really suggest a particular brew as being the best as everyone appears to have a favourite.

However, I can possibly help with the application of whatever you choose.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/ch...t-rust-103526/

Just a thought.

And a follow up...three months later (outside, full sun/rain)....

rust.JPGrust2.JPG

In a surprising result, it looks like the petroleum jelly is holding up better than any of the proper anti rust coatings, followed by the epoxy paint!!!!