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Thread: Straightening a saw blade
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10th June 2013, 05:02 PM #1Senior Member
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Straightening a saw blade
I need some advice on how to get a vintage saw blade straight. The saw is an old Disston D8 dated between 1896-1917. I think it's a D8 Lightweight because it's only 26" long and the blade is quite thin compared to my old Spear & Jackson. Its not kinked or anything, just curving slightly to the left at the tip. I've tried the old boiling water trick but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
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10th June 2013, 09:10 PM #2
John, I think the best advice I could offer is to read what Bob Smalser has to say on the topic. He is the acknowledged guru...
I've been moderately successful following his method, though one badly kinked saw defeated me. I managed to make it useable, but could not get it perfect. I would suggest that it pays to take it carefully at first, until you get the feel of how hard you can hit without making marks on your sawblade (you can hit pretty hard if you are using the right sort of hammer). Hitting too lightly won't achieve much, or at best gets you there very slowly, but you are better off with many lighter hits than a few too heavy. I have a saw that was worked over by an enthusiastic but unskilled person & I can tell you it's nearly impossible to remove the marks!
Cheers,IW
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10th June 2013, 11:20 PM #3Senior Member
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I actually read that article this morning and thought hey maybe I should give this a try.
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11th June 2013, 07:58 AM #4
Other than an annoying clatter or vibration during your stroke, what is it like to use at the moment?
Cheers,
Paul
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11th June 2013, 10:39 AM #5Jim
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Sometimes the problem can be nothing more than the set.
Cheers,
Jim
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11th June 2013, 04:49 PM #6Senior Member
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I haven't tried sawing with it yet, still busy cleaning it. Teeth needs sharpening and a set.
The blade is actually in really good condition considering it's age, almost no rust pitting and I can still very faintly see the etching.
Here are two photos of it I took in the second hand store:
I'll post better pics when I'm done restoring it.
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11th June 2013, 06:09 PM #7
Ron Herman's video (2nd one?) talks about hammering a bit.
The largest (but small) amount of info is probably regarding CROSSCUT saws ... there's a 1hr or 2hr free video online that talks about straightening in that context as part of it.
http://www.bchw.org/Tech%20tips/Cros...Sharpening.htm
I've tried the old boiling water trick but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
Please describe!
Cheers,
Paul
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11th June 2013, 06:49 PM #8Senior Member
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27th August 2013, 06:08 AM #9Senior Member
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has to be frustrating doesn't it
sure i have some off beam, answers. to get your saws straight it might mean you all have to go play on the railway tracks though!
cheers
chippy
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27th August 2013, 12:28 PM #10
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27th August 2013, 03:14 PM #11Senior Member
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28th August 2013, 12:32 AM #12
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28th August 2013, 06:43 PM #13Senior Member
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sheeeze i hate you....got me again
back to the saw, Paul lists all the available online info, so there it is, not much more to be said, boiling water or any heat treatment is ultimately a bad thing, not recommended .
once you start mucking about with saws it can be a bugger, as most ppl want a quick fix and it can once started take a LOT of work thats never completed properly, easy enough but a lot of work is all. cut corners and it never really works like it should
is it worth doing, learning or paying to have done...i think so, they just dont make saws saws like they used to so good ground steel and good tension are nice to have, not that all steel is bad these days but the tensioning and grinding of saws isnt the same....can be done with a lot of work though
cheers
chippy
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28th August 2013, 06:57 PM #14Jim
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As Chippy says, it's no use looking for a quick fix with a hammer. Get it cleaned first then sharpened and set. As I said earlier it could be no more than an uneven set that's causing the curve.
Cheers,
Jim
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