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  1. #1
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    Default How do you strengthen your mitres ?

    What do you thinks good enough for solid timber mitres ? ....strength wise.

    uno...

    dowels, keys, just butt em with expoxy maybe.....

    I was taught to use dowels....but keys look stronger.

    A Tongue and grooved joint is essentially like a key so I'm thinking that be up there with strength too.

    thinking about it because I've got a new idea going on Tonguing and grooven the things after sticking the moulding just using woodie planes etc.....appealing because the cuts should be fast since its a strong with grain cut.

    gota go.

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  3. #2
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    How do I strengthen mitres? Glue and Pray!

    Am still trying to figure out how to cut a spline slot (neatly) without a table saw so am really interested in this ensuring discussion.

    Thanks Apricot!!

    cheers
    Wendy

  4. #3
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    Default

    [quote=apricotripper;420431]What do you thinks good enough for solid timber mitres ? ....strength wise.

    quote]

    I use splines, but I use a TS to cut the slot.

    Quote Originally Posted by rufflyrustic View Post
    How do I strengthen mitres? Glue and Pray!

    Am still trying to figure out how to cut a spline slot (neatly) without a table saw so am really interested in this ensuring discussion.
    I don't know for certain how I would do it by hand, but I would start experimenting by using an Anglemag (having conviinced the FIL to let me borrow it) with a Japanese saw to make the outside cuts and then use a 3mm (or 1/8th) chisel to remove the waste. No guarantees, but that's what I would do to start off.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  5. #4
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    Default

    Hi Jake,

    Would depend on the size of the joint. If it was large enough, I would probably use a biscuit jointer and biscuits - very fast, very strong and more accurate than dowels. If it was a small joint, like a picture frame for example, I would probably glue it and when dry make a saw cut and glue in veneers across the joint.

    Cheers

    Paul

  6. #5
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    Default

    Slipfeathers made from veneer in handsaw cuts. Cut the slots after its all glued up and dry. Any stress is along the grain of the veneer, so it doesn't need to be very thick.
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  7. #6
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    Default Splines Work Well

    Gidday Jake

    I'm a real fan of using splines as per taige frids (Famous yank woodworker) technique. He reckons his technique is stronger than using dovetails (I'm yet to be convinced BUT is certainly a solid joint)

    If your interested I'll do a sketchup drawing of how he goes about it.

    David MArks from Woodworks often uses biscuits in his mitre joinery. As always lots of options once you start getting creative.

    I'd guess that biscuits or dominos would be the quickest and most efficient methods offering more than adequate strength particularly in production run type situations.

    For high end showcase type joinery I would use a combination of methods both for strength and asthetics eg: A combination of splines and mitre keys.

    Regards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  8. #7
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    Default

    I've used biscuits on mitres and find the very strong.

  9. #8
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    Hi, Never used a biscuit jointer before....deary me.

    Alex..... How do you clamp up ? ..... I've read of a few ways....I quite like just using tape.

  10. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by apricotripper View Post
    Alex..... How do you clamp up ? ..... I've read of a few ways....I quite like just using tape.
    Mitre clamp or a jury rig using clamps at 90 degrees holding pieces of timber to the workpiece then then clamping them together with a third clamp.
    (need a piccy really but can't find one)
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

  11. #10
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    What about a mitred halflap joint... or a mitred bridle joint.
    IMHO Both be stronger than biscuits and dowels.
    ....................................................................

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry72 View Post
    What about a mitred halflap joint.
    The half lap mitre gives plenty of surface for gluing and can be additionally strengthened with contrasting dowels for effect.

    A housed rabbet mitre can also use dowels to strengthen and effect but has limited gluing surface.

    Locked mitre will add strength but has little gluing surface.

    Cheers
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

  13. #12
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    Thumbs up

    I have tried both splines & biscuits, prefer the biscuits, much less fuss and plenty strong so far. As for clamping, those heavy duty steel strap clamps with approx 4 metres of strap which usually suffices for most of my projects.
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

  14. #13
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    Default

    The mitres on the picture below are reinforced inside with biscuits, and outside with dovetail keys. A pretty simple jig for a router will make these fairly easily.

    Corbs


    It's only a mistake if you don't learn from it.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by apricotripper View Post
    Alex..... How do you clamp up ? ..... I've read of a few ways....I quite like just using tape.
    Yep, just use masking tape.

    Get the good quality stuff that will stretch. Lay the job out on the bench & stretch several pieces across three of the corners (if your box is rectangular) then put glue on all mitres. Because it's basically end grain, I put a 50/50 glue/water size on before the main glue application. Then, fold it together (don't forget to put the base and top in ) and put tape across the last corner. If you like you can stretch a rubber band cut from an old inner tube around to add a bit more pressure, but you really don't need to. Check for square by measuring the diagonals, and also check that it's sitting flat on the deck.
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  16. #15
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    Default

    Looks good Corbs...

    I do pretty much the same as you Alex....except I usually buy the cheap tape and double it up.

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