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2nd December 2006, 08:05 AM #1
How do you strengthen your mitres ?
What do you thinks good enough for solid timber mitres ? ....strength wise.
uno...
dowels, keys, just butt em with expoxy maybe.....
I was taught to use dowels....but keys look stronger.
A Tongue and grooved joint is essentially like a key so I'm thinking that be up there with strength too.
thinking about it because I've got a new idea going on Tonguing and grooven the things after sticking the moulding just using woodie planes etc.....appealing because the cuts should be fast since its a strong with grain cut.
gota go.
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2nd December 2006, 09:17 AM #2
How do I strengthen mitres? Glue and Pray!
Am still trying to figure out how to cut a spline slot (neatly) without a table saw so am really interested in this ensuring discussion.
Thanks Apricot!!
cheers
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2nd December 2006, 09:34 AM #3
[quote=apricotripper;420431]What do you thinks good enough for solid timber mitres ? ....strength wise.
quote]
I use splines, but I use a TS to cut the slot.
I don't know for certain how I would do it by hand, but I would start experimenting by using an Anglemag (having conviinced the FIL to let me borrow it) with a Japanese saw to make the outside cuts and then use a 3mm (or 1/8th) chisel to remove the waste. No guarantees, but that's what I would do to start off.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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2nd December 2006, 10:04 AM #4Senior Member
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Hi Jake,
Would depend on the size of the joint. If it was large enough, I would probably use a biscuit jointer and biscuits - very fast, very strong and more accurate than dowels. If it was a small joint, like a picture frame for example, I would probably glue it and when dry make a saw cut and glue in veneers across the joint.
Cheers
Paul
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2nd December 2006, 06:32 PM #5
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2nd December 2006, 07:36 PM #6
Splines Work Well
Gidday Jake
I'm a real fan of using splines as per taige frids (Famous yank woodworker) technique. He reckons his technique is stronger than using dovetails (I'm yet to be convinced BUT is certainly a solid joint)
If your interested I'll do a sketchup drawing of how he goes about it.
David MArks from Woodworks often uses biscuits in his mitre joinery. As always lots of options once you start getting creative.
I'd guess that biscuits or dominos would be the quickest and most efficient methods offering more than adequate strength particularly in production run type situations.
For high end showcase type joinery I would use a combination of methods both for strength and asthetics eg: A combination of splines and mitre keys.
Regards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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2nd December 2006, 07:40 PM #7
I've used biscuits on mitres and find the very strong.
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2nd December 2006, 08:20 PM #8
Hi, Never used a biscuit jointer before....deary me.
Alex..... How do you clamp up ? ..... I've read of a few ways....I quite like just using tape.
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2nd December 2006, 08:36 PM #9
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2nd December 2006, 08:40 PM #10
What about a mitred halflap joint... or a mitred bridle joint.
IMHO Both be stronger than biscuits and dowels.....................................................................
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2nd December 2006, 09:35 PM #11
The half lap mitre gives plenty of surface for gluing and can be additionally strengthened with contrasting dowels for effect.
A housed rabbet mitre can also use dowels to strengthen and effect but has limited gluing surface.
Locked mitre will add strength but has little gluing surface.
CheersJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
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2nd December 2006, 10:20 PM #12
I have tried both splines & biscuits, prefer the biscuits, much less fuss and plenty strong so far. As for clamping, those heavy duty steel strap clamps with approx 4 metres of strap which usually suffices for most of my projects.
Bruce C.
catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .
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3rd December 2006, 08:57 AM #13
The mitres on the picture below are reinforced inside with biscuits, and outside with dovetail keys. A pretty simple jig for a router will make these fairly easily.
Corbs
It's only a mistake if you don't learn from it.
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3rd December 2006, 01:22 PM #14
Yep, just use masking tape.
Get the good quality stuff that will stretch. Lay the job out on the bench & stretch several pieces across three of the corners (if your box is rectangular) then put glue on all mitres. Because it's basically end grain, I put a 50/50 glue/water size on before the main glue application. Then, fold it together (don't forget to put the base and top in ) and put tape across the last corner. If you like you can stretch a rubber band cut from an old inner tube around to add a bit more pressure, but you really don't need to. Check for square by measuring the diagonals, and also check that it's sitting flat on the deck.
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4th December 2006, 05:07 PM #15
Looks good Corbs...
I do pretty much the same as you Alex....except I usually buy the cheap tape and double it up.
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