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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,096

    Default system - rehabber

    hey all,
    after recently (ok, once againg turtning old rusted, pitted blades into stupidly sharp users), rehabbing some old chisels and plane blades from rusty to mirror back (and slicing off part of my thumb on the final stone!) I am motivated to finding a way to 'hasten' the polishing of chisel (and plane) backs.

    I currently use 120,300,700 then 6000 grit Japenese water stones. (yes, i know I am skiping a few grits , but its been working for me)
    I know that there will be many opinions... but what are the options for polising chisel backs to mirror finish that do not include 1/2 hou,r per blade, stepping through my stones?

    Is there such a thing as a wet, diamond, powered wheel?

    as always, all replies gratefully appreciated.....
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    925

    Default

    I would like to know this too. I have 250 1000 6000 and 13000 stones and I strop the blades with honing paste a the end but it takes a lot if time. I was thinking of getting a diamond plate to remove material more speedily.
    My age is still less than my number of posts

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,134

    Default

    I'm afraid sharpening is another situation of reward for effort, Clinton. Rehabbing old, wide blades is a special form of torture, and I wish I knew an easy way, too! I'm not sure diamond plates cut any faster than a good water stone of equal grit size (I've got both, as well as a drawer full of oil stones). The advantage of diamond plates lies as much in their ability to remain flat as to cut quickly. Whatever system you use, there are compromises. I've recently started using a water stone for final polishing, because it's quicker and leaves a better surface than my white translucent Arkansas stone, on hard steels. I could not get a decent edge on a PMV11 blade with the Arkansas, but the water stone does it easily. But it's taking me a while to adapt to the softness of water stones after years of honing with oil stones - I've nicked it several times in the few months I've had it!

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    3,191

    Default

    IanW is spot on. If you find a way let us know. Otherwise just look upon it as nature's way of controlling the number of chisels we have.
    Cheers,
    Jim

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Alstonville NSW 2477
    Posts
    85

    Default

    I have one way but it has only worked once I gave my lot to a mate to sharpen in return he got 2 cartons . ( But it only took him 3 days later for about 100 chisels & 30 planes ) going from 240 - 12000 Now I do have nice chisels & planes though. But now I have to do them bugger .

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,260

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dan.001 View Post
    ....I gave my lot to a mate to sharpen in return he got 2 cartons....
    Geez, I'd want substantially more than a coupla cartons for that lot! I'd still be suffering from RSI a month later....

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Master Splinter View Post
    If anyone ever put the back of any of my chisels to something like this, MS, they'd be walking bow-legged for 2 weeks, & singing soprano in the choir for ever after.......

    IW

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,015

    Default

    You need to watch karate kid the first one
    Sharping is mediation for woodworkers lol

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

    Default


    note my signature
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Clinton1 View Post
    hey all,
    after recently (ok, once againg turtning old rusted, pitted blades into stupidly sharp users), rehabbing some old chisels and plane blades from rusty to mirror back (and slicing off part of my thumb on the final stone!) I am motivated to finding a way to 'hasten' the polishing of chisel (and plane) backs.

    I currently use 120,300,700 then 6000 grit Japenese water stones. (yes, i know I am skiping a few grits , but its been working for me)
    I know that there will be many opinions... but what are the options for polising chisel backs to mirror finish that do not include 1/2 hou,r per blade, stepping through my stones?

    Is there such a thing as a wet, diamond, powered wheel?

    as always, all replies gratefully appreciated.....
    surface grinder (and some skill in using it) plus a jig to hold the back of the blade level
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    surface grinder (and some skill in using it) plus a jig to hold the back of the blade level
    Now you're talking labour-saving! A surface grinder & a magnetic holder, or better still a decent milling machine could be adapted to do the job, plus lots of other jobs as well. Nothing stopping us, I suppose, apart from about 6 (plus) grand.......

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Alstonville NSW 2477
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Geez, I'd want substantially more than a coupla cartons for that lot! I'd still be suffering from RSI a month later....

    Cheers,
    Don't worry I still help him out in landscaping I now have a have a few more ( around double in my chisels & a total of about 50 - 60 hand Planes give or take some ) for him to do I wonder if 3 cartons will be ok & $100 that may sweeten the deal & I will give him a hand ( may be )

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,096

    Default

    I'd need a few cartons to keep me going to do "about 100 chisels & 30 planes"... tough work.

    MS, I'd cringe if my chisels/plane blade came near something like that, I'd not be able to control the 'grind'.

    Ian - a surface grinder is not an option for me, unfortunately, but I'd like either your shed or network if you can get access to a surface grinder.

    I take it that the absence of raves about the bench mounted rotary wet stone machines (likethis), or better, a vertically mounted stone one, speaks volumes?

    I do the back and top on the rougher grits (unless I go the electrolysis route) when I first get a new 'old' chisel, then only polish the first cm or so on the back of edge tools. Each time I re-sharpen, I do the backs a little more... progressively polishing more along the back.

    I was hoping that someone would know of a powered, slow, grinder machine which is worth its salt... but maybe I should be in the market for a large diamond plate. ?
    Although, Dans mate suits the ticket for a powered, slow, grinder machine, any one offering?
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    79
    Posts
    647

    Default

    Backs on old chisels seem to rarely be flat. My approach is to grind out a wide shallow divot on the back with a Dremel sort of cone shaped grinder bit. This means I am only flattening, then, polishing a small area (like Japanese chisels). Might not be pretty, but works. For plane blades I just resort to the 'ruler trick'.

    I am not one of those who can successfully use coarse abrasive paper to flatten backs without rounding over edges. Believe me I have tried.

    Cheers
    Peter

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