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Thread: system - rehabber
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25th November 2013, 12:02 AM #1
system - rehabber
hey all,
after recently (ok, once againg turtning old rusted, pitted blades into stupidly sharp users), rehabbing some old chisels and plane blades from rusty to mirror back (and slicing off part of my thumb on the final stone!) I am motivated to finding a way to 'hasten' the polishing of chisel (and plane) backs.
I currently use 120,300,700 then 6000 grit Japenese water stones. (yes, i know I am skiping a few grits , but its been working for me)
I know that there will be many opinions... but what are the options for polising chisel backs to mirror finish that do not include 1/2 hou,r per blade, stepping through my stones?
Is there such a thing as a wet, diamond, powered wheel?
as always, all replies gratefully appreciated.....
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25th November 2013 12:02 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th November 2013, 07:30 AM #2well aged but not old
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I would like to know this too. I have 250 1000 6000 and 13000 stones and I strop the blades with honing paste a the end but it takes a lot if time. I was thinking of getting a diamond plate to remove material more speedily.
My age is still less than my number of posts
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25th November 2013, 09:14 AM #3
I'm afraid sharpening is another situation of reward for effort, Clinton. Rehabbing old, wide blades is a special form of torture, and I wish I knew an easy way, too! I'm not sure diamond plates cut any faster than a good water stone of equal grit size (I've got both, as well as a drawer full of oil stones). The advantage of diamond plates lies as much in their ability to remain flat as to cut quickly. Whatever system you use, there are compromises. I've recently started using a water stone for final polishing, because it's quicker and leaves a better surface than my white translucent Arkansas stone, on hard steels. I could not get a decent edge on a PMV11 blade with the Arkansas, but the water stone does it easily. But it's taking me a while to adapt to the softness of water stones after years of honing with oil stones - I've nicked it several times in the few months I've had it!
Cheers,IW
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25th November 2013, 09:55 AM #4Jim
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- Feb 2008
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- Victoria
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IanW is spot on. If you find a way let us know. Otherwise just look upon it as nature's way of controlling the number of chisels we have.
Cheers,
Jim
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25th November 2013, 10:17 AM #5
I have one way but it has only worked once I gave my lot to a mate to sharpen in return he got 2 cartons . ( But it only took him 3 days later for about 100 chisels & 30 planes ) going from 240 - 12000 Now I do have nice chisels & planes though. But now I have to do them bugger .
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25th November 2013, 07:24 PM #6
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25th November 2013, 07:25 PM #7
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25th November 2013, 07:34 PM #8
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25th November 2013, 08:02 PM #9
You need to watch karate kid the first one
Sharping is mediation for woodworkers lol
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25th November 2013, 08:23 PM #10
note my signature
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25th November 2013, 08:28 PM #11
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25th November 2013, 09:38 PM #12
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25th November 2013, 11:03 PM #13
Don't worry I still help him out in landscaping I now have a have a few more ( around double in my chisels & a total of about 50 - 60 hand Planes give or take some ) for him to do I wonder if 3 cartons will be ok & $100 that may sweeten the deal & I will give him a hand ( may be )
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26th November 2013, 02:45 PM #14
I'd need a few cartons to keep me going to do "about 100 chisels & 30 planes"... tough work.
MS, I'd cringe if my chisels/plane blade came near something like that, I'd not be able to control the 'grind'.
Ian - a surface grinder is not an option for me, unfortunately, but I'd like either your shed or network if you can get access to a surface grinder.
I take it that the absence of raves about the bench mounted rotary wet stone machines (likethis), or better, a vertically mounted stone one, speaks volumes?
I do the back and top on the rougher grits (unless I go the electrolysis route) when I first get a new 'old' chisel, then only polish the first cm or so on the back of edge tools. Each time I re-sharpen, I do the backs a little more... progressively polishing more along the back.
I was hoping that someone would know of a powered, slow, grinder machine which is worth its salt... but maybe I should be in the market for a large diamond plate. ?
Although, Dans mate suits the ticket for a powered, slow, grinder machine, any one offering?
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26th November 2013, 03:55 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Backs on old chisels seem to rarely be flat. My approach is to grind out a wide shallow divot on the back with a Dremel sort of cone shaped grinder bit. This means I am only flattening, then, polishing a small area (like Japanese chisels). Might not be pretty, but works. For plane blades I just resort to the 'ruler trick'.
I am not one of those who can successfully use coarse abrasive paper to flatten backs without rounding over edges. Believe me I have tried.
Cheers
Peter
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