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Thread: Tap and dies for wood
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15th March 2011, 12:35 AM #1Intermediate Member
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Tap and dies for wood
Can anyone recommend a source for a wood tap and die set? I need something for 2 1/2 dowels. Thanks.
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15th March 2011 12:35 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th March 2011, 08:20 AM #2
Like this?
Beall's Wood Tapping & Threading Kits - Lee Valley Tools
Or this?
Wood Thread Boxes : CARBA-TEC
You'll have trouble finding anything larger than 1 1/2". Might be easier to get a tap made locally and build your own router thread cutter for the screws. It's not all that difficult...
Cheers,IW
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15th March 2011, 03:15 PM #3Intermediate Member
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Wood Thread Box
Thanks Ian, actually I did mean 1 1/2" size. I live in Thailand, and it seems that it is cheaper to ship stuff from Australia than USA. I can not find anything like this here. I am looking for a manual one, like the one pictured at Carba-Tec. If anyone out there has one that they don't use or want I would be interested.
Thanks
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15th March 2011, 06:04 PM #4
Hi Neilyag,
If you can find someone with a metal lathe, you can get them to make a tap for you, then you use the tap to make a thread box.
I can post a picture of the one I made if that helps.
Regards
Ray
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15th March 2011, 07:00 PM #5Intermediate Member
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Ray, that would be great if you have a picture and a little detail, maybe I can get it done. Thanks a lot.
Neil
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17th March 2011, 03:01 PM #6Senior Member
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Hi Guys, I take it you've looked at some of the previous threads up here about wooden taps and turning threads for completly wooden vices etc?
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/w...59/index3.html
Some of the Router jigs looks very nice, and I think may be more versatile in terms of being able to turn various size threads....
Good Luck, Would love to see pictures of what you decide on in the end.
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17th March 2011, 04:18 PM #7
Hi Neil,
Here is that picture..
The only critical dimension is the root diameter should be made to suit a standard forstner bit, In my case that was 1 3/4. The pitch is 3.4 threads per inch, but anywhere 2-4 threads per inch is ok. The thread profile is 90 degrees. Not the normal metal thread of 60 degrees.
I welded a 25mm 3/4 inch square drive socket on the end, so that I could use a standard bar to turn it.
The male threads I cut on a lathe with a router, but I would suggest have a look at Ian's thread box router setup and work from that.
Regards
Ray
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17th March 2011, 05:57 PM #8
Hi Neil,
I realize that this is probably no help to you unless you have a lathe, but, for interests sake here is a short video of the final pass ( down to 49 mm) on some 2" 3.4 tpi oak threads for a moxon twin screw vise.
If you are at all squeamish about killing electrons look away...
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fdaPFRv5ZY]YouTube - DSCN0072[/ame]
Regards
Ray
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17th March 2011, 08:34 PM #9
Last edited by Pac man; 17th March 2011 at 08:36 PM. Reason: added q.
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18th March 2011, 05:28 PM #10
Hi Pacman,
I'm planning to make a couple more taps, I got some 4140 steel to make a few more that can be heat treated. I will be happy to lend to anyone who wants to borrow them. But I'm religiously avoiding anything that involves money changing hands, that would take away from the fun I get out of it.
Regards
Ray
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18th March 2011, 09:02 PM #11
Ray - I commend your industry, but really, you don't need anything harder than mild steel for wood taps. My 2" tap has done yeomen service for many years (almost 20), tapping nuts for myself & others in some very hard woods, and shows no sign of deterioration. I suppose if you intend loaning it out on a regular basis, it may be prudent to harden it, however, taking the practical view, it's probably easier to just make a new one if it were to be damaged by some ham-fisted user.
Of course, you probably want to do it just to see if you can, in which case, above advice is to be ignored......
Cheers,IW
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18th March 2011, 11:12 PM #12
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18th March 2011, 11:12 PM #13
Hi Ian,
The tap I'm using at the moment is just mild steel, and it works fine, but one of the more laborious operations is to bore the center. So I thought I'd get something with a hole already through the middle.. and came across this stuff, which I think is used in making hydraulic cylinders, and just happened to be 4140, which machines nicely and can be heat treated fairly easily.
So, it wasn't actually a deliberate design choice to not use mild steel, it was more a case of, "What's that bit over there? That looks like the stuff what I need"..
Serendipity... ( So you see, it was a deeply researched and carefully considered choice )
Regards
Ray
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18th March 2011, 11:21 PM #14
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19th March 2011, 11:31 AM #15
Ray - OK, I see your point. And thanks for the info - you're dead right, boring out the guts of a large tap is a PITA, particularly on my little 'toy' lathe (I watched your electron-demolition video, & that lathe of yours is a truly serious bit of machinery!) So I might try & source a bit of similar stuff for the 1.5", 4 tpi tap I want to make. I can then turn up the blank, & take that to my mate's lathe (an old Hercus that can do 4 tpi) to cut the threads (skipping the heat-treatment step.... ).
Cheers,IW
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