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Thread: Tapping out chisel handles
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2nd May 2012, 11:29 AM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Tapping out chisel handles
LN show their standard chisel handles being tapped out and a new longer one being inserted for paring. In practice is this a viable thing to be doing regularly ? Will the handles eventually loosen and not stay in place or is there some mechanics beyond friction doing the trick ?
Of course this relates to the new H&S chisels in the group buy too.
Cheers,
Sam
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2nd May 2012 11:29 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd May 2012, 12:43 PM #2
Sam,
I have only ever removed a chisel handle to replace it with a new one so I tend to agree with your reasoning that constant handle changing is less than ideal. A chisel is fitted with a handle for the job it does and that should be it. The good thing about making your own handles is you can get it the way you want and a nice fit in the hand. Having said that I have never had my hands on a LN chisel so dont know what magic they have going.
Regards
John
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2nd May 2012, 05:27 PM #3
Hi Sam
The long handles for the LN chisels were designed by David Charlesworth, based on Japanese slicks (paring chisels), to convert the LN bench chisel into a pseudo paring chisel.
What constitutes the perfect chisel handle is unlikely to be resolved ever as there are many, many variables, and then there are personal preferences as well. For example, I prefer a longer handle than the standard LN handle, but others may not agree. I bought Blue Spruce instead, one reason was their longer handles. I have Stanley #750 chisels, upon which the LN were based, and made longer handles for mine. The shorter LN handles are best suited for striking than pushing.
If you wish to create a reliable attachment for the LN chisel handles, spray the join with hairspray. This will prevent them falling out (a common complaint) but is still easy enough to tap off.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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2nd May 2012, 08:07 PM #4Senior Member
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what John said, dont go changing the handles like you might change a hacksaw blade for different uses, only change them if you have to, broken, have a shape you prefer, whatever, if you get seasonal changes that affect them or work out of doors where the sun gets on them considerably, then consider glueing them in (maybe hairspray works i've never tried), makes em a bugger to change though, doable but a pita. nothing worse than picking up a socket chisel by the handle and the blade falls to the concrete, makes ya think your tools have leprosy, bits fallin off them everywhere!
socket chisels look the nicest (to me anyway) and are a good design to hit with a mallet, although i have yet to break a good quality firmer chisel with tang and 2 hoops (ferrules) or for that matter some good quality plastic handles in socket or tang design even when hit with tremendous force with a steel hammer, the steel in the chisel breaks before the handle does lol, usually!(speaking about plastic handles dont think i have ever really abused a wooden handled chisel to that extreme), but they dont look as cool (fashion maybe) or feel as nice for that matter
long handled slicks arnt unique to the japanese, quite common in western framing and boatbuilding etc as well, not a tool that was designed to use at the workbench however, although anyone can develop their creativity as they choose. generally paring technics in cabinet work (etc) might involve placing one (or sometimes both) hand(s) near the cutting edge, generally the leverage and length with this sort of work is fine with a short handle, conversely, sometimes a long blade length is advantageous though. for larger work in the cottage industry or boatbuilding for example a slick with a long handle is handy but the LN or the other bench chisels would be somewhat limiting in that respect, chances are you would require a wider chisel than their range supplies, the wide ones are what i use more regularly anyway
cheers
chippy
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