Thread: Tapping out chisel handles

Sam,
I have only ever removed a chisel handle to replace it with a new one so I tend to agree with your reasoning that constant handle changing is less than ideal. A chisel is fitted with a handle for the job it does and that should be it. The good thing about making your own handles is you can get it the way you want and a nice fit in the hand. Having said that I have never had my hands on a LN chisel so dont know what magic they have going.
Regards
John

Hi Sam

The long handles for the LN chisels were designed by David Charlesworth, based on Japanese slicks (paring chisels), to convert the LN bench chisel into a pseudo paring chisel.

What constitutes the perfect chisel handle is unlikely to be resolved ever as there are many, many variables, and then there are personal preferences as well. For example, I prefer a longer handle than the standard LN handle, but others may not agree. I bought Blue Spruce instead, one reason was their longer handles. I have Stanley #750 chisels, upon which the LN were based, and made longer handles for mine. The shorter LN handles are best suited for striking than pushing.

If you wish to create a reliable attachment for the LN chisel handles, spray the join with hairspray. This will prevent them falling out (a common complaint) but is still easy enough to tap off.

Regards from Perth

Derek

what John said, dont go changing the handles like you might change a hacksaw blade for different uses, only change them if you have to, broken, have a shape you prefer, whatever, if you get seasonal changes that affect them or work out of doors where the sun gets on them considerably, then consider glueing them in (maybe hairspray works i've never tried), makes em a bugger to change though, doable but a pita. nothing worse than picking up a socket chisel by the handle and the blade falls to the concrete, makes ya think your tools have leprosy, bits fallin off them everywhere!

socket chisels look the nicest (to me anyway) and are a good design to hit with a mallet, although i have yet to break a good quality firmer chisel with tang and 2 hoops (ferrules) or for that matter some good quality plastic handles in socket or tang design even when hit with tremendous force with a steel hammer, the steel in the chisel breaks before the handle does lol, usually!(speaking about plastic handles dont think i have ever really abused a wooden handled chisel to that extreme), but they dont look as cool (fashion maybe) or feel as nice for that matter

long handled slicks arnt unique to the japanese, quite common in western framing and boatbuilding etc as well, not a tool that was designed to use at the workbench however, although anyone can develop their creativity as they choose. generally paring technics in cabinet work (etc) might involve placing one (or sometimes both) hand(s) near the cutting edge, generally the leverage and length with this sort of work is fine with a short handle, conversely, sometimes a long blade length is advantageous though. for larger work in the cottage industry or boatbuilding for example a slick with a long handle is handy but the LN or the other bench chisels would be somewhat limiting in that respect, chances are you would require a wider chisel than their range supplies, the wide ones are what i use more regularly anyway

cheers
chippy