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Thread: My "new" tenon saw
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5th January 2020, 02:56 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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My "new" tenon saw
Happy New Year to all. Please have a look at the photo below of my recently restored Disston hand saw. New handle cut out of American White Oak, profile from Blackburn Tools and my first attempt at sharpening (which worked!!) Thank you to Ian or Derek or Paul for a link you put in one of your threads to a really good article on sharpening (although it took me a long time to get my head around the fleam jig described within it!). Quick question, I am claiming the saw as a Disston because the medallion is so cast, but the blade has no markings nor the spine. Is this correct? Also blade is 13 ppi and I used the citric acid bath (75g to 750ml warm water) to clean up. Oh and the saw cuts beautifully and even straighter than previous? And the plane blade mark on the handle has also been removed
20200101_144641.jpg
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5th January 2020, 03:10 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Nice job.
Do you even need fleam on the teeth of a 13ppi tenon saw? I used a similar tenon saw as the basis for my dovetail saw with a Moses Eadons handle template from TGIAG tool works. Had to tighten the set to get it cutting nicely, but like you I couldn't be happier.
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5th January 2020, 03:16 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Hi aldav. Thanks. Not sure about fleam but good practice nonetheless
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6th January 2020, 09:15 AM #4
Not if you are going to use it primarily for ripping, as in cutting the cheeks of tenons....
Well done, MA, the fleam business is a bit confusing at first, but once you've got your head around it, it's pretty basic geometry. I think it's a good idea to experiment & play about with set & fleam angles until you arrive at a place that suits you and you're happy with the performance of each of your saws.
Discussions around fleam pop up on a pretty regular basis. After much not-too-scientific fiddling with saws, I've come to accept Tage Frid's dictum that saws over 15tpi don't benefit sufficiently from fleam to be worth the extra bother. My much-favoured small bowsaw that I use almost every day is 15tpi. I put about -5 degrees of rake on it and a bit more set than I'd put on a dovetail saw of the same pitch to allow it to turn more easily. I really don't notice all that much difference as it goes from rip to crosscut on a circular cut, as long as it's kept sharp.
Certainly, you can spend a lot of time very carefully sharpening a fine-toothed saw as a crosscut to give you lovely clean cuts, but the situations where perfectly clean crosscuts are needed are few & far between in the sort of work I do. I keep a small 18 tpi x-cut on hand for some fine work, but it's an eye-straining chore to sharpen it, so it tends to get a bit dull before I give in & take a file to it, which sort of defeats the purpose. My main dovetailng & small tenon-cutting saw is 15 tpi, filed straight rip. It leaves adequately clean surfaces on dovetails, which are essentially rip cuts, but also crosscuts with little or no blow-out on most woods so I can just cut to the line for non-critical shoulders (like drawer-runner tenons). For any cut that will be highly visible, I still follow the way I was taught as a 12 year-old; cut just shy of the line & trim with a chisel (or shoulder-plane now that I own such things). Rip-pattern saws are easy to resharpen, so I keep them in top form always (well, almost always), but my crosscuts sometimes cry out for attention because I need to be in the mood to tackle those - I can still make a dog's breakfast of a crosscut if I hurry it or don't concentrate sufficiently on what I'm doing!
When I started seriously toothing & sharpening saws, I experimented with all sorts of patterns & profiles, and for a while I favoured a 'hybrid' style for my small dovetail/tenon saws, in the belief it made them crosscut better, but when I did some more careful evaluations, I came to the conclusion that the advantages I thought I was getting were mostly self-delusion. Over the years, I've gravitated to pretty conventional tooth patterns - I guess they evolved over the long-haul for good reasons.
Cheers,IW
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7th January 2020, 12:51 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Ian. Just last night I read one of Paul Sellers' blogs and he was also recommending rip saw toothing for all handsaws above a certain ppi (13 I think). Personally, as a carpenter with 25+ years experience, I am very chuffed with myself for having finally done something that my forebears did regularly without a second thought. So much knowledge is being lost and I thank you and others for passing on yours.
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