Thread: Thankyou

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Thanks Paul. I will have to have another look for the X. I did notice on the Disston website that this length of saw (26") and 6tpi was sold as both crosscut and rip early on but by 1918 only as a rip.

MA

Well picked up. 6ppi is quite coarse for a crosscut handsaw, but equally it is fine for a rip saw, although you do see the occasional 7ppi rip, mainly in smaller panel saws. Interestingly the No.12 continued with a 6ppi crosscut which, with a larger selection of teeth available, seems to suggest it was a better seller than the 112. Perhaps even then the No.12 was iconic despite the trend towards the skewback saw, which Disston themselves had started back in 1874 with the No.80. The 80 very quickly became the ubiquitous D8 and heralded the modern saw shape.

Regards
Paul

Well in the interests of science I tried the boiled water trick but to no avail. I think that I might be best replacing the blade (of the J Taylor and sons saw) or cutting it down in height. Also tried some tensioning with a hammer and lump of steel but nothing appeared to improve.

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Well in the interests of science I tried the boiled water trick but to no avail. I think that I might be best replacing the blade (of the J Taylor and sons saw) or cutting it down in height. Also tried some tensioning with a hammer and lump of steel but nothing appeared to improve.

M,A

What sort of hammer did you use, or more importantly what shape was the crown.
Or so the lump of steel was it flat an clean.

Cheers Matt

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Well in the interests of science I tried the boiled water trick but to no avail. I think that I might be best replacing the blade (of the J Taylor and sons saw) or cutting it down in height. Also tried some tensioning with a hammer and lump of steel but nothing appeared to improve.

Well, you tried. There really isn't much point in persisting if nothing seems to be happening, so I reckon at this stage I'd be putting it aside & moving to option 2. You could maybe revisit it some time in the future, &/or get someone with saw-hammering experience to have a go at it, just to satisfy curiosity. If it was a very rare & precious example of a saw from 1700 or somesuch, then replacing the blade would probably be a bit vandalistic, but for a saw of this vintage & ubiquity, I would have no qualms about replacing a buckled or badly pitted blade. Saw plate is not so precious or rare that you absolutely have to save every scrap. A used-up hardpoint donor of suitable size & gauge would be my choice, rather than using brand-new plate because I reckon a bit of oxidation & scuffing would look more at home on an oldie than bright shiny new plate. However, a few years & regular use would sort it out whichever way you go...

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Simplicity

M,A

What sort of hammer did you use, or more importantly what shape was the crown.
Or so the lump of steel was it flat an clean.

Cheers Matt

Hi Matt. I cleaned up an old hammer with a square shaped head at one end and a round head at the other. I did dome both heads a little on my linisher attachment. My "anvil" was a 6" round 9" long rod of steel. The end was mostly flat. The curve in the blade sort of pops back and forth, as though this semi circular section is now too big . There also appear to be some cracks at the teeth line. I think plan B will be the go

Hi Ian. I now have some old saw plate material I can use. Interstingly I was concerned enough about the damage to the thread on the saw bolts to purchase an adjustable thread restoring cutter (my local bolt bloke had no dies for 22 UNC at around 5/32 diameter!). This didn't work (not enough good thread to start in) but I managed to screw the split nuts back on anyway. Live and learn I guess.

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi Matt. I cleaned up an old hammer with a square shaped head at one end and a round head at the other. I did dome both heads a little on my linisher attachment. My "anvil" was a 6" round 9" long rod of steel. The end was mostly flat. The curve in the blade sort of pops back and forth, as though this semi circular section is now too big . There also appear to be some cracks at the teeth line. I think plan B will be the go

If the curves are popping up and down,
Go straight to plan B do not pass Go.

The curves are stretched metal, contained by either side with non stretched metal,
Hence why it pops up and down,just like the bottom of old oil cans.



That would be very difficult even for a seasoned saw doctor to get straight.
You would need to cold shrink that metal back,
I think like Ian suggested it’s just not worth the pain.

Cheers Matt.