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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyro View Post
    .... I'll drill through the disc and into the wood of the knob and insert a rod or something....
    Just a couple of 19mm nails should do it spyro. That, plus a drop of Loctite on the disc & lock-ring should put an end to your troubles. There should be very little danger of things going sideways if you drill holes in the wood so that the pins are easily driven home. But yeah, making a new knob is only a few minute's worth of work.

    There was another reason I made a new knob, apart from preserving the original. I don't like the wincey narrow-topped knobs fashionable since 1918 or whenever the "high" knob was born. So the replacement is more squat & has a flat LAJ2.jpg

    The flat top gives me a more comfy hold. I find the way most people hold the high knob awkward, you have your arm twisted around and the bottom of your palm invariably rubs on the web of the side of the plane. Many's the time I had blisters after a long planing session.

    I use the flat-topped knob like this (mostly):IMG_8176.jpg
    I use my palm to apply pressure on the toe at the start of the stroke, which holds the plane level for a clean entry. As the plane moves away from you the pressure on the toe is automatically eased. Near the end of the stroke, transfer a little more weight to the handle so the plane runs off the far edge evenly. No sniping. It's a particularly helpful technique when planing short boards - all too easy to create a 'hill' when doing that...

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    5,124

    Default On twisting knobs

    Drill a 1/8" hole through the bottom washer into the knob by ~10mm. Insert 1/8" brass rod, cut and braise/CA in place, sand and polish flat....

    Stops the whole lot from rotating

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Bentleigh East
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    50
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    423

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Just a couple of 19mm nails should do it spyro. That, plus a drop of Loctite on the disc & lock-ring should put an end to your troubles. There should be very little danger of things going sideways if you drill holes in the wood so that the pins are easily driven home. But yeah, making a new knob is only a few minute's worth of work.

    There was another reason I made a new knob, apart from preserving the original. I don't like the wincey narrow-topped knobs fashionable since 1918 or whenever the "high" knob was born. So the replacement is more squat & has a flat LAJ2.jpg

    The flat top gives me a more comfy hold. I find the way most people hold the high knob awkward, you have your arm twisted around and the bottom of your palm invariably rubs on the web of the side of the plane. Many's the time I had blisters after a long planing session.

    I use the flat-topped knob like this (mostly):IMG_8176.jpg
    I use my palm to apply pressure on the toe at the start of the stroke, which holds the plane level for a clean entry. As the plane moves away from you the pressure on the toe is automatically eased. Near the end of the stroke, transfer a little more weight to the handle so the plane runs off the far edge evenly. No sniping. It's a particularly helpful technique when planing short boards - all too easy to create a 'hill' when doing that...

    Cheers,
    I find the whole thing uncomfortable to be honest. The handle is too far back and too small with nowhere to put the index finger as you can see in your photo. And the whole tool is too front heavy (and heavy overall) and feels bad on the wrist if you ever need to lift it single handed, and there's really no other way to do it. And although it's predominantly used as a shooting plane by most people it just doesn't have enough of a side wall for that, or a place to comfortably hold it and push it when it's on its side. I can't say I like using it, quite the opposite.

    But, it works, so I'm not too fussed.

  5. #34
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    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyro View Post
    I find the whole thing uncomfortable to be honest. The handle is too far back and too small with nowhere to put the index finger as you can see in your photo. And the whole tool is too front heavy (and heavy overall) and feels bad on the wrist if you ever need to lift it single handed, and there's really no other way to do it. And although it's predominantly used as a shooting plane by most people it just doesn't have enough of a side wall for that, or a place to comfortably hold it and push it when it's on its side. I can't say I like using it, quite the opposite.

    But, it works, so I'm not too fussed.

    I agree with you on most of those points Spyro. It's a bit of a one-trick pony. I use mine on a shooting board too; it's not ideal, for the reason you mention, but it does a good enough job. I don't use a shooting board much these days so I'm certainly not going to rush out & buy one of those gold-plated shooting planes on offer. Perhaps what I use it for most is for "free-hand" trimming of long ends, like squaring up a carcase side, or trimming long mitres & suchlike. In that role it beats anything else in my arsenal of planes hands down. I have to give the blade top marks too, it takes & holds an edge very well - certainly not PM-V11, but well up with the pack.

    Not having somewhere for my index finger is something I've whinged about myself. When you've been brought up on the standard Bailey planes it feels really weird having one's index finger waving about in the breeze. I notice it immediately on first picking the plane up to use, but after a while I get used to it & it doesn't bother me so much. I thought the rear handle that came with mine was quite decent, a very nice piece of figured (Bubinga?), it had a reasonable shape (unlike those horrid sticks on Veritas planes!) & with a bit of rasp & sandpaper work it looked like a real handle, just a bit on the skinny side. LAJ1.jpg

    But that front knob had to go! I hunted around for something to match the handle, with no luck. I happened to have some suitably-sized pieces of East Indian Rosewood, so that's what it got. LAJ7.jpg

    Perhaps a little too flash for a "second-tier" plane, but Rosewood does feel good in the hands.....

    Cheers,

    Edit: Forgot to mention that I decided I didn't like the two-tone look after a while, so I remade both knob & handle in She-oak. They are well-polished from a few years of use, and almost as nice as Rosewood: S-oak handles.jpg

    yeah, I know - I need to get out more........
    IW

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Dandenong Ranges
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    1,892

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    yeah, I know - I need to get out more........
    Not at all, Ian. By posting this you make those of us who have done the same feel better about ourselves. I only have one mismatched handle/knob to go!!! And in the right light they look almost the same

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    5,121

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    Very interesting evolution of your LAJ, Ian.

    Jackplane - Three.jpg (Photos: IanW)

    Three subtly different shapes and sizes for the knob, and then when you remade the tote you made it slightly more erect and slightly thicker - that never ending quest for something better....

    Also note that neither you nor Spiro are particularly enamoured by this plane. It is my "go to" plane and I use my LN LAJ for virtually everything. Never thought about the distance between the knobs or where to put my index finger until you mentioned it!

    And you are not a fashionista for two tone handles?

  8. #37
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    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    ... Three subtly different shapes and sizes for the knob,....
    Well, two are subtly different, Graeme, but the "tall knob" (which I detest) is hardly a subtle difference..

    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    ... when you remade the tote you made it slightly more erect and slightly thicker - that never ending quest for something better....
    The tote is a very close copy of an old rosewood tote from a 1920s era Stanley #5 or #6 (can't remember which) owned by my best mate's father. I fell in love with that tote the instant I picked the plane up, & promptly made a template from it. So any time I need a new tote I reach for the template! I hadn't noticed 'til I posted the pics, but you're right, the oldie is slightly more 'upright' than the original. The old tote was similar in profile to legions of totes, but it was shaped into more of an oval cross-section along the grip than many others I've seen, even the old ones. But if reproduced at the same thickness & cross-section as the one I copied, it sits in my hand like it was made specially for me...

    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    ... It is my "go to" plane and I use my LN LAJ for virtually everything. Never thought about the distance between the knobs or where to put my index finger until you mentioned it!....
    All good, Graeme - it would be a sad world if we all liked the same thing. My LAJ is a perfectly good plane, but I have my dad's old ~1918 Stanley 5 1/2 which is my go-to for an everyday jack. The old, slightly narrower & lighter-bodied (than a post-1935 model) 5 1/2 is just the perfect combo imo, but I know at least one other person who detests it...

    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    ... And you are not a fashionista for two tone handles?
    My daughters will cheerfully confirm that I could never be considered a fashionista in any sense of the word.
    "Dad, you're not going out dressed like THAT are you?"

    (Anyone who's had teenage daughters can probably empathise...... )

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    5,124

    Default Shooting plane on a budget

    One could try this tricky little bolt-on jig (from the post on instagram: Login • Instagram)

    These are three screen grabs.... the video is more illustrative
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
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    2,209

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    Or just do what Record did with the T5 and drill and tap the cheeks for a handle.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  11. #40
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    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    Interesting you should mention this Clear Out.

    It seems a little odd that the bigger planes don't have M6 (or such) holes pretapped.

    I was considering this for my Jack to use as a shooter....

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    ballarat-ish
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    59

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    bringing this back to the top, cause i noticed those unbranded low angle jacks are back on sale again for easter, and if someone ends up getting one it'd be nice if they saw the thread to let us know their verdict

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