Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
-
18th January 2020, 07:39 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2019
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
- Age
- 43
- Posts
- 519
Tips on re-painting a lever cap? (photos inline)
At the risk of spamming the forum I had a second question to chuck out for any boffins.
Does anyone have any tips for the best way to re-paint a lever cap from an old Bailey style plane? The patients in question are Falcon Pope No 4 and No 5 / 9 inch (doing both). Both originally were painted with a satin-nickel (my best description) paint and red paint in the shadow of the lettering - you will see some remnants in the photo.
I put both lever caps through electrolysis to remove all of the rust including within working parts for the lever, but so much of the red paint in the lettering recessed parts has come off, and enough of the other paint, that I think I should repaint. These planes are intended to be users with some fidelity to original - but not collectors or museum pieces (they are a dime a dozen on ebay).
My question is whether anyone has any tips on paints I could source in Australia (Supercheap, Bunnings, Wattyl stores etc) for priming and finishing and best methods.
I have already repainted the base plate but regret not using a primer. Even after an electrolysis process and scrubbing with acetone (so they are clean as can be), there wasn't great adhesion and I suspect I will have to re-do if I want it fussy-good. The topcoat (Wattyl Killrust) was advertised as not needing a primer - [insert expletive] .
I would prefer a spray-on primer for evenness but can't see any way to get around the risk of getting some in the lever cap working parts and ruining its function. I am thinking that any metal paint primer should be fine, using a throwaway tiny art brush near the lever and backing plate.
For the topcoat, I couldn't see any reason not to use (and have picked up) a satin Dulux metalshield as close to original as I can. I looked around but can't see any other brands with a non-gloss option and I think a gloss on the front part might make the whole thing look like a toy / hipster project.
I am struggling with what to do with the red base around the lettering - I will use a throwaway little art brush. The colour I found at Bunnings was a dark red ("Box Red") but the paint desk said it needs a True Red base. I dont' want to use any gloss or bright red as it will look too far off original and like a hipster vomit project. Specific questions are:
- What metal paint for lettering is out there in tintable red? I want a non-gloss but can't seem to find any from a red base, only gloss (Dulux Metalshield, Killrust and Rustoleum). I could only find tintable white in a satin.
- Do I even need to use a metal paint, for something indoors that shouldn't get knocked around (its in recessed sections, that should never be touching anything unless someone pokes something in there. Can I just use a generic acrylic or art paint over metal primer for that section?
- Any tips in painting the recessed parts of lettering? I was just going to use a tiny brush, when the other section is dead dry, not being too fussed about smudging or smears over the edge as I can just wipe off any that hits the top.
IMG_20200118_181836.jpg
-
18th January 2020 07:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
18th January 2020, 08:26 PM #2
My take on this would be.
1 Too rotary wire brush the remaining paint out
2 Clean it very well with metho
3 Get some Etch primer(this is the first coat too use on bare steel) an a apply a light coat you don’t need a thick coat.
4 Any of the auto stores can mix paint for you too any colour you desire(Acrlic would be best)
5 mix this with some thinners 50/50 will do
6 Paint it in with a brush don’t worry about getting every where.
7 once dry Sand the lever Cap with a block(180 grit or so)
This will leave the painted letters looking fantastic.
Cheers Matt.
-
18th January 2020, 09:01 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2019
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
- Age
- 43
- Posts
- 519
Thanks mate
I was thinking about putting a paint stripper on the untroubled sections as it will be quite a job to move the good sections of paint (I don't have a bench grinder, have a wire brush I could attach to a drill and a Dremel).
Any views on pros or cons? I am aware they're a horrible stink and need gloves but if it saves an hour of grinding... (And I have two to do...)
Also just out of curiosity why not be worried about paint dripping into lever? Because it's thinned shouldn't do much in terms of caking up?
-
19th January 2020, 07:53 AM #4
You could go the paint stripper way , it’s just it’s messy stuff.
A brass wire brush in a drill, or even a small one in Dremal will work, just try not to hit your mating surfaces too much,
You can mask of the lever cap,
I just realised your painting the all of it,my fault I thought you were just touching up the tex in the lever cap.
Cheers Matt
-
19th January 2020, 10:33 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2019
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
- Age
- 43
- Posts
- 519
Thanks again
This morning I coincidentally got out my worksharp sharpener (a little, slack, belt grinder) to sharpen the mower blades. I gave it a bit of a zazz just to see whether it would shift the paint. Did well on the edges (it is particularly good for the curves).
Made me think that my Festool rotek 90 might be good and went at it. 120 grit paper cleaned of all the main surfaces.
However it turns out there is a bit of a hollow in the sides. And given I'm never going to get the gunk out of the lettering recesses I might try and spray-on epoxy primer. Given it has been roughed up to 120 grit I'm hopeful it will turn out okay.
A bit muddled on what to do about the lever itself. At the risk of turning it into a dogs breakfast I might spray prime most of it (I'm leery about brushing primer into the letter recess in case I gum it up), then brush prime the small moving parts at the top carefully. If I then sand it all before topcoating for an even texture, hopefully that should work.
Similar Threads
-
Inline air filters
By WelderMick in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 34Last Post: 2nd March 2013, 10:13 PM -
tips for painting alummiun
By nz_carver in forum FINISHINGReplies: 6Last Post: 28th May 2010, 07:59 AM -
Connect 12v batteries inline how?
By David L in forum MOTOR HOMES, CARAVANS & CAMPINGReplies: 7Last Post: 18th December 2007, 08:09 AM -
Making Lever Caps and Lever Cap Screws in the Backyard
By derekcohen in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 13Last Post: 18th April 2007, 04:08 PM