Thread: My first tool cabinet

My progress today was slow as usual it's slow on purpose since I'm learning, I expect mistakes but I try and avoid them if possible. I examine what I've done and try to learn from my mistakes as you can see there are quite a few like the chip out on the end of the mortise. For whatever reason I was being careless and didn't notice my plow plane isn't flush with the work, I knew it was a stopped groove yet I didn't think when I started making the groove anyway I learned from this mistake. My good old well not so old router plane finished the job alot more precise than chiseling by hand with a chisel.

I finally some blond dewaxed shellac flakes 1kg for $48 cheaper than carba tec, Rite Price Distributors in Molendinar on the Gold Coast. Sorry I bought the last one I'm currently reading a book on finishes written in 1921 and for pine he recommends white shellac which I take it's blonde. I did use that ubeaut sanding sealer but having spoken to the bloke who makes them it takes 24 hours to dry properly so shellac basically takes atleast 20 mins then I can apply the stain.

Veritas router looks like a spaceship

Are you addicted to 'lacky bands? Should we call someone?

Paul

Lacky bands??? What is that?

Elastic/Rubber bands ... on your vice.

Go on then - tell us what a Queenslander'd call 'em.

ok of course how about rubber bands there's not a serious bone in your body and I take it your the only one following this post. Atleast your taking interest.

Originally Posted by section1

ok of course how about rubber bands there's not a serious bone in your body and I take it your the only one following this post. Atleast your taking interest.

748 views of your thread so far ... I think plenty of people are interested.
I forgot to say I like the seat/stool.
Cheers,
Paul

The stool was a much needed addition.

Are you sure you haven't got the blade in upside down?

yes I'm sure

Final progress for the week as it's back to work again.

I grooved the rest of the frame 2/8" depth, I then cut the panel to fit. Then I made a small rabbet about 1/32" on both sides all four sides, the grooves are 3/8" and the panel is 3/8 but it barely fit so I must of been atleast a /32 too thick. This is just a dry fit I plan on mixing some shellac now and will come back to it in a couple of days or if I get time sooner. I'm not sure if I should cut the curves before or after the glue up, clamping will be a lot simpler left square but I'm staining the panel one colour and the frame another

I have just experimented with dewaxed shellac and spirit based stain on Hoop pine, I have gone against what all finishers say that you cannot apply a spirit based stain over shellac. This is confirmed in the expert finishes book written in 1921 and The complete Illustrated guide to finishes by Taunton press. The results are outstanding, never before have I been able to achieve a complete uniform look, no blotches. I have also applied a water based stain over shellac and there was uneveness and some small amounts of blotchiness. This has worked for hoop pine, but I cannot say the same for radiata, ash, cherry, or even maple as those timbers are also porous and accept stain differently. This is a major break through for myself, so far I have used feat and watson prooftin and I will try out the wattyl brand I don't expect there to be a different but one never knows what to expect.

The shellac I made a 2pound cut of about 500ml. So in our charts that mean 113grams of flakes to 450-500ml of methylated spirits (Denatured Alcohol) if you want 1 litre just double the grams. I am yet to experiment with F&W sanding sealer and the wattyl timber grain filler, I expect them to do the same job as shellac but with a lot of sanding, I will also try the lacquer sanding sealer.

My issue with this now is applying those sealer over stain, sanding it just may sand the stain away especially if it hasn't penetrated the wood and applying a second coat of stain over the sealer will over darken the grain and destroy that uniform look.

Any help? ... 128 – Shellac Under Polyurethane | The Wood Whisperer

I've seen that before and he is wrong shellac (waxed version) will not peel away under poly but can crack, this is why dewaxed shellac is used plus it's drying time when thinned is great.

Originally Posted by section1

...... On a happier note I just bought a 2a hand drill like blood knew out of the box all up including shipping $188 I'm still trying to work out how to tell Mrs.

I am not going there.


And I have been following just slow in the replying.