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  1. #16
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    The plan was to use the middle compartment to house the most-used hand planes. Unfortunately I was a bit too generous with the height, wasting precious space.
    IMG_20210508_185319038.jpg

    Decided to make use of the space by making a wide shallow drawer, which would be useful for bits and pieces. The construction is the same as the other four drawers, but the base is made of 1/4" plywood instead of masonite - looks nicer and a bit sturdier. Quite pleased with this unexpected drawer addition, glad that I overestimated the height at the first place!

    IMG_20210516_195708637.jpg

    This is the drawer in place. I've also added internal display doors for the to compartment. They are just over 4" thick with plywood & masonite insert roughly in the middle, providing two surface on each door to hang measuring tools, rasps & DT saws (that's the current plan).
    IMG_20210516_195622038.jpg

    The internal display doors are dovetailed on the sides and bottom frames. The top frame is slotted so that the insert can be readily removed. This is a simple construction but caused me the most (self-inflicted) grieve:

    Firstly, I decided to tame #50 combination plane and persisted in using it to make the grooves for the insert. Unfortunately this plane is still a mystery to me as I couldn't steer it straight hence the grooves look like they've been chewed on. Should've just sticked with the #43 instead.

    IMG_20210516_203001186.jpg IMG_20210516_195544943.jpg

    The second mistake was the positioning of the grooves relative to the dovetails. With a bit more planning and insight, the groove should've been hidden behind the tail...
    IMG_20210402_164811621-2.jpg

    Cheers,
    Andy

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  3. #17
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    Hi Andy. Good to see your progress. I'm envious

  4. #18
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    Mar 2004
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    Ah yes, the old groove in the wrong place thing - can't be many of us who didn't do that once or twice early in our careers. A little square of matching material driven in should hide it from all but the most determined critic, or since it will be out of sight most of the time, just leave it there as a reminder to lay out your tails more carefully in future...

    It's coming along nicely, and you can never have too many drawers in a tool cabinet!

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #19
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    Thanks MA, progress has been slow but unfortunately shop time is hard to come by...

    You read my mind, Ian. I was planning to leave the hole there as a permanent reminder.

  6. #20
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    The tool cabinet project has been abandoned for a while but finally there is a bit of happy progress.

    The door is made of discarded bed frame - presumably pine. Here's a picture of the stiles and rails with the grooves for the panels. Not sure what type of pine it is but it seems to be low in stiffness, light and relatively "spongy".
    IMG_20210703_171219391.jpg

    Not happy with it, I decided to discard the stiles and made a new set from from another bed frame, presumably also pine, but much stiffer and denser.

    The joinery is a standard mortice and tenon. After dry fitting with 6 mm plywood panel, the door is ready for glue up.
    IMG_20220328_213917773.jpg

    I'd like to use the back of the door to store some saws and other tools, so a strip of frame was screwed to the back of the door to give it some depth. I'm basing this design from a vague memory seeing IanW's tool cabinet doors - though he used a much nicer piece of wood for the panels.
    IMG_20220330_204436860.jpg

    The completed doors after attaching the handles, hinges and lock. Unfortunately the hinges cannot be seen from the photo below, but three butt hinges have been attached on each door.
    IMG_20220402_180840276.jpg
    IMG_20220330_204459029.jpg

    The doors are yet to be installed on the carcase. I should've considered it earlier, but the butt hinges will need to be screwed into the edge of the plywood carcase which isn't ideal. The plywood is one inch thick and I did a test by drilling a screw into the edge. No blow out and there's no way I could even budge the screw while trying to pull it out with a locking plier (granted that given my size, the effort would've been rather wimpy).

    I could drill a few holes from the side and slot in hardwood dowels for the screws to bite in, if really necessary. Any thoughts?

    Here's a photo of the carcase after installing the back (particle board with black melamine).
    IMG_20220402_180456524.jpg

    You would have also noticed that some of the drawers have no drawer pulls. Epoxy alone doesn't seem to keep the washer pulls in place, so I'm planning to drill a few holes and fasten the washers with some small nails.

    Cheers,
    Andy
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #21
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    Coming along nicely Andy. Thanks for the update. The weight of the doors may put a bit of stress on the screws into the edge of the plywood. I would use long screws with a coarse thread (65mm ACQ ones, might have to adjust countersink profile in the hinge)

  8. #22
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    Wow MA, you sure like to make things solid! I would certainly use longer screws in plywood than in solid wood (well, depending on just how solid the wood is ), but 65mm seems like a lot - I guess you have far more experience in attaching things to ply, so I will bow to experience.

    IIRC, I used 30mm (brass) screws for the doors on my cabinet (& yep, Andy, your doors are very similar in concept & execution, even to the 3 hinges aside). My doors are NG rosewood so a little heavier than ply/pine, and screwed into NG r'wood as well. Much depends on just how much you want to cram in them. It probably looks like a lot in mine, but there's really not that much weight altogether:
    Main T-box.jpg

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #23
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    sure do Ian. But these are the sort of thing I have around all the time. Thought that if I recommended something and it failed, then my reputation would be in tatters.

  10. #24
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    Thanks MA and Ian.

    Pardon my ignorance, but does ACQ refer to the timber treatment or something else? Went to the BGS for a browse and it seems that particle board screws have the coarsest thread, so that's what I'm planning to use. Based on the recommendations, I'll probably go for somewhere between 30 - 65 mm long. I won't hold you accountable, MA.

    I don't have a lot of stuff to store on the door for now, but if the tools miraculously multiply... who knows.

    Cheers,
    Andy

  11. #25
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    Yes Andy, the ones I know of are also called climacoat. Protection is not required, I just like the coarse thread.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_B View Post
    ......I don't have a lot of stuff to store on the door for now, but if the tools miraculously multiply... who knows.
    Yairs, well, be prepared - tools get up to all sorts of mischief in there in the dark! Before you know it there's a population explosion.....
    IW

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Yairs, well, be prepared - tools get up to all sorts of mischief in there in the dark! Before you know it there's a population explosion.....

    Does that also explain Festool Systainers?

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Does that also explain Festool Systainers?
    Dunno Graeme, I'm not into festering tools.....
    IW

  15. #29
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    The cabinet has now been placed in position with the doors installed. The doors and drawer fronts are finished with a few coats of shellac.

    IMG_20220424_192803525.jpgIMG_20220424_192826395.jpg

    The dovetail saws are finally housed in their permanent home.

    IMG_20220424_192834658.jpg

    Apart from the bench planes and the dovetail saws, I'm still not sure how to organise all the tools inside the cabinet. So I just throw my treasured hand tools in for now, since the cabinet is the only lockable storage in the garage. Here are some pictures:
    IMG_20220424_193238482.jpgIMG_20220424_192926415.jpgIMG_20220424_192911901.jpg

    Still undecided whether to use the partition leaf panels, so I haven't installed them yet. Hmm... decision decision...
    IMG_20220424_193217496.jpg

    Cheers,
    Andy

  16. #30
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    Looking even gooderer Andy. Are those rasps some of the fancy variety? What do you think of them?

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