Thread: Tool handles

There are some very helpful sites out there, and I'm sure google knows about them. Try searching for
"turned chisel handle" or
"fitting chisel handle".

A sample extract is below.

I use a Triton SuperJaws to press my handles on, and gently tap on alternate sides of the ferrule as the tool is pressed in.

Copper pipe from Bunnies works fine for my ferrules.

Cheers,
Andrew

(from http://members.lycos.co.uk/handforged/handles.html)

Tools with tangs.

For these tools it doesn’t much matter which hardwood is used, although it should still be dry. When fitting the handles, do not heat the tang to burn a hole, or the tempering will be spoiled. Drill a hole using a bit the same size as the tang when viewed from the side, then it’ll be a nice tight fit. A perfectionist will use different sized bits, so as to create a tapering hole which fits the tapering tang. Blow the dust out of the hole, and then smear plenty of epoxy glue (such as Araldite) onto the tang before tapping the handle onto it with a mallet. Once the glue has set it will not pull off.

Ferrules will stop the handle from splitting, if this is likely because you will be hitting the end of it. Otherwise they should not be necessary. Some people use them because they haven’t drilled a large enough hole for the tang, so when they hammer the handle on it would be inclined to split; in this case the ferrule can be quite a loose fit as well, as final assembly will expand the wood inside it to fit. Ferrules can be simply made by cutting up copper or steel pipe, remember to file or sand the sharp edges. If you intend doing a lot of hammering on the end of a chisel or gouge it would be better to get those tools made with a socket, or at least a “button” to prevent the tang from being driven deeper and deeper into the handle. A do-it-yourself button can be added to a tanged chisel or gouge by filing out a seat and fitting a washer.