How many tool handles from one board

[Bushmiller]

OK, now back to the actual topic of this thread [emoji6]

You didn't really think the file handle was the main part, did you?

Here is the main reason why I couldn't leave the ugly plastic handle on the files.






And in action



The build itself deserves it's own thread. Like most of my projects it took it's twists and turns and also including some failures.

And the obligatory shrinking board picture



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CK

I love that. I have been trying to obtain the Blackburn Tools version for some time, but failed miserably.

Blackburntools rakemaker 2.jpg

Both the Blackburn Tools rakemaker and the Veritas file guide (I too have one of these)

veritas-saw-file-holder-f-01.jpg


to which Ian refers are either loosely based on or at the very least inspired by the Henry Briggs patent (around the 1920s I think, but would have to check to confirm):

Henry briggs file guide diagram[38727].PNG

I would be very interested in replicating a guide like yours as it looks to be both simple and effective. I eagerly await your dedicated thread. I think you have done particularly well and the choice of timber...so good.

Regards
Paul

[Cklett]

I did not know about the patent. Thanks for adding that. Interestingly in teh patent they get away with only one thumbscrew to lock teh fleam and rake in at once. Whereas Veritas, Blackburn and myself opted for separate screws. It makes the design easier and I think also better to adjust. This way at least you are not risking changing two variables at once.

Anyway here is the built thread now: Making a file guide for saw sharpening

Have fun reading

[Cklett]

OK, I am getting ready now for the next chapter. But I am still missing something.

I want to make the handles for this screwdriver.



This one has a blade of 200mm long.

I would love to make at least two with different size but matching style.

So I was wondering if somebody has a matching smaller blade in his rust bucket?

If so I am sure we can come to agreement. A swap maybe or so. I have some other screwdriver I still want to restore. They are old too, but with round shaft. However, for this project I rather use the flat one. I am happy to fix the round ones up and swap for example.





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[IanW]

Ck, I have a bunch of old files that I have annealed, they would be pretty easy to shape into the pattern you have there. I made a small London pattern driver from a file years ago. As I recall, it didn't become dead soft when I annealed it (in the fireplace), & remained at what I thought was close to the right hardness for a driver. It has stood up well in use, so must be pretty close.
Small turnscrew.jpg

I chucked half a dozen files in the coals when I was burning the rubbish from all my dead pine trees last year. I don't think they are dead-soft, but certainly soft enough to work easily enough. If noone comes up with ready-to-go blades, you are very welcome to try re-purposing a few files, I have no immediate plans for any of them....
Cheers,
Ian

[BobL]

If you have a kitchen oven that can get to 250ºC (not all of them can and even those that say that can, don't necessarily do so) then a couple of hours at that temp will temper files sufficiently to be able to shape and use as screw drivers. They will still be quite hard so grinding won't be as easy as fully annealed/softened file would be - a long wood fire would normal anneal these - but it saves re-hardening and re-tempering.

I've made a few drivers and chisels, and a draw knife this way. The PITA bit is grinding away all the teeth but there's a safety reason for this as they can become a weak point although this is more important for chisels than drivers.

[IanW]

......The PITA bit is grinding away all the teeth but there's a safety reason for this as they can become a weak point although this is more important for chisels than drivers.

Yes, I forgot to mention this, it's the normal "product warning" applied whenever re-purposing old files is mentioned. I think the risk of stress failure at a tooth line is greatest if a) you use the file in its fully-hardened state & b) the blade is used in a way that is likely to concentrate stresses in the teeth grooves.

Fully hard files are like fresh carrots, which I frequently take advantage of when re-purposing dead saw files that I want to keep at maximum hardness - a small nick on the grinder, put the "keep" part in the vise & a light tap with a hammer snaps off the unwanted piece easy-peasy (taking all precautions to preserve your eyes, etc..)

Yet another reason I love my CBN wheel - the flat side is perfect for grinding teeth off or creating straight 'safe' edges with minimum fuss & risk of damaging anything....

Ian

[Cklett]

OK, the screwdriver project is on its way, but this came in between.

My cheap flushcut saw had lost too many teeth. I still had some points left at local tool shop and used them to get a slightly better Dewalt flush cut saw.

At home I realised a problem. The handle was too long to swap places with the old saw in my saw till.

I tool this as an opportunity to make a new shorter handle. And also a nicer handle...



So now it just fits nicely in the little corner where it is supposed to be and is another addition to the challenge of how many tool handles from one board [emoji3]



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[BobL]

Rehandling stuff can be surprisingly satisfying
If you like really tactile tool handles, fruit and nut tree timbers are worth a go.
Even very plain looking apple tree timber somehow feels right for tool handles and Olive is one of the best.
I'm currently making some kitchen implements out of Pistachio wood, very light in colour but the feel is sensational, almost Olive like.

[johknee]

This thread is awesome! I need to find some sheoak!

[IanW]

This thread is awesome! I need to find some sheoak!

Sheoak, Bulloak, Hairy oak - all make excellent tool handles. Hairy oak is a favourite of mine when I can get hold of any. It's the least hard of that group to work, but still buffs up to a lovely tactile finish like the other two. Gidgee & Mulga are nice too - Mulga is the finest-grained of the lot and makes superb handles. You can usually pick up pieces of any of these woods plenty big enough for handles at wood shows (when/if they happen again!).

Keep 'em coming, Ck - I'm impressed by how far that bit of sheoak has stretched - if you get desperate, I might have a handle-sized piece or two in the scrap box, but I need to replenish my own supply soon.....

Cheers,

[Simplicity]

Rehandling stuff can be surprisingly satisfying
If you like really tactile tool handles, fruit and nut tree timbers are worth a go.
Even very plain looking apple tree timber somehow feels right for tool handles and Olive is one of the best.
I'm currently making some kitchen implements out of Pistachio wood, very light in colour but the feel is sensational, almost Olive like.

There use too be this Bloke in American, years ago.

Who used Fruit tree timber for all his Saw handles, think is name was Henry, Henry Disstion from memory.[emoji6]

Cheers Matt.

[Bushmiller]

CK

I think this board of yours could be a close relation of the "everlasting Tim Tam." Will you be on the lookout for another similar board?



Regards
Paul

Like the the handles. BobL is right it is a most satisfying little pastime.

Regards
Paul

[Cklett]

CK

I think this board of yours could be a close relation of the "everlasting Tim Tam." Will you be on the lookout for another similar board?



Regards
Paul

Like the the handles. BobL is right it is a most satisfying little pastime.

Regards
Paul

I wish. But I am sure some day it is used up [emoji20]

I love that timber as well as the hairy oak and river oak. It is so beautiful and very different to what I grew up with in the Fatherland. My folks back home also.love it when I make stuff with this for us exotic timber.

I will probably keep lookout for more of that stuff or alike. Maybe not as warped, but I do like a challenge ;-)

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[Cgcc]

Hairy oak fans represent! Love that stuff!

Sheoak, Bulloak, Hairy oak - all make excellent tool handles. Hairy oak is a favourite of mine when I can get hold of any. It's the least hard of that group to work, but still buffs up to a lovely tactile finish like the other two. Gidgee & Mulga are nice too - Mulga is the finest-grained of the lot and makes superb handles. You can usually pick up pieces of any of these woods plenty big enough for handles at wood shows (when/if they happen again!).

Keep 'em coming, Ck - I'm impressed by how far that bit of sheoak has stretched - if you get desperate, I might have a handle-sized piece or two in the scrap box, but I need to replenish my own supply soon.....

Cheers,

[IanW]

......I will probably keep lookout for more of that stuff or alike. Maybe not as warped, but I do like a challenge .....

With luck, we might have a Maleny wood show next year. There are usually a few sellers with woods like Hairy oak & other less common species like western rosewood (Acacia rhodoxylon). They are mostly catering for turners and small craftwork, so rarely have big pieces, but plenty big enough for handles. If you calculate the prices on a cubic-metre basis you'll blanche, but they're reasonable given what it takes to collect & haul it to the show. I reckon it's a good way to sample a range of woods you wouldn't otherwise come across. It's how I "discovered" several woods like A. rhododendron that have become firm favourites with me for handles & plane infills etc.

If you disscover something & fall in love with it, you can usually find more once you know what you're after - an ad in the 'wanted to buy' section is often a good start.....

Cheers,