Thread: Another tool holder build (spoke shave rack)

Thanks Derek, a picture is, yet again, worth a thousand words !!!

Cheers Yvan

The other day I picked up a Stanley No. 62 reversible spokeshave (dual irons facing opposite sides) and being a type 1 it doesn't have hang holes like the rest in my collection.

So, recalling this thread's excellent storage solution I raided the offcuts bin and whacked together my own spokeshave holder!

Timber unknown, being a roadside find. Probably Tassie Oak.
The drill press and bandsaw did the heavy lifting and also a chisel for the joints and various planes for finishing. A splosh of thinned BLO and now ready to hang on the workshop wall:

IMG_20201029_162217.jpgIMG_20201029_162418.jpgIMG_20201029_162528.jpg

Thanks for the inspiration!

Vaughan

Originally Posted by dubrosa22

The other day I picked up a Stanley No. 62 reversible spokeshave (dual irons facing opposite sides) and being a type 1 it doesn't have hang holes like the rest in my collection.

So, recalling this thread's excellent storage solution I raided the offcuts bin and whacked together my own spokeshave holder!

The drill press and bandsaw did the heavy lifting and also a chisel for the joints and various planes for finishing. A splosh of thinned BLO and now ready to hang on the workshop wall:

IMG_20201029_162418.jpg

I'm counting 10 shaves

Is that "the lot" or do you have a few more "lurking" somewhere?

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The use of a wooden spokeshave, such as the Stanley #84, is a revelation. The Veritas may look the same, but is not. The metal mouth serves to set the depth of cut, however it is unnecessary - this can be done by the wrist.

To understand this, one must use a travisher ...

I was using on to hollow this seat ...







The depth of cut is minimal, however the mouth has a slight curve in front of the blade - this is critical for performance .. rock the mouth forward, and the cut is very fine; rock it back, and the cut is coarser. (EDIT - it could be the other way around - too early in the day to think straight!)

The wooden spokeshave is similar.

Regards from Perth

Derek

OK, I think I'll need one of these babies before I start my next carved mandolin.

Originally Posted by IanW

'Twasn't me sir! I wasn't going to post a pic of my travisher, because it is a shameless plagiarism of Derek's, but since you asked: Attachment 483335 Attachment 483336

And to prove my honest intentions, I was witholding pics of the infill compass plane I made to assist my travisher: Attachment 483333 Attachment 483334

And one of these!!!

Banjopicks, my compass plane & travisher overlap quite a bit in function. I could get by with one or the other as far as scooping out chair seats goes, but there are parts of the process that one always seems to do better than the other, so it's nice to have both (and of course any excuse will do to put a bit more nice wood, brass & sharp metal together! )

Instrument-making was always something that intrigued me & I intended to get involved with it someday, but so many other projects (essential & non-essential) have jostled for priority that it just hasn't happened. I have always been drawn to the little finger-planes instrument makers use - it seems they were among the earliest, if not the earliest metal-bodied planes made. Over the years I've seen so many ways to make them - casting by the lost-wax method is perhaps the "best" way, but they can be fabricated. That's relatively easy for the flat-soled variety, but could be done for radiused soles too.

Over the last couple of years I've indulged my interest in little planes & cranked out a slew of them. At first it was just for fun & to use up some scraps, but then I discovered how handy the things can be for small work, or occasionally even on quite large pieces for easing sharp corners, etc. This is the latest of the batch, a dinky little thing barely 75mm long overall, but it has become one of my favourite toys tools:7 Shavings.jpg

I use M2 tool steel blanks I get from McJings for blades. Grinding a bevel on such tough steel is a tedious job but it holds its edge extremely well & comes nicely ground so it takes very little effort to polish the backs. I can cut 3 blades from a chunk that costs less than $20. I started out using replacement blades for the Stanley 100 but they cost 3 times as much (if you don't include wear & tear on the grinder ) and are as soft as butter by comparison.

Definitely a fun area of plane-making that's well worth exploring....

Cheers,

Scooping chairs is exactly like scooping mandolin tops and backs. I've always had it in my mind to make a wooden plane for this. I think a metal one like yours would be so much better though. Ahh, I'll put it on my list.

Originally Posted by banjopicks

Scooping chairs is exactly like scooping mandolin tops and backs. I've always had it in my mind to make a wooden plane for this. I think a metal one like yours would be so much better though. Ahh, I'll put it on my list.

Wood is ok,bp, but certainly wears faster. My first double-radiused plane was only meant to be a prototype to test size & radii, but it worked well enough that it took me 20 years to make the 'real' one. But the black bean I made it from wasn't a good choice, it's not a very tough wood & the area in front of the mouth, which seems to bear the brunt of the abrasion on this type of plane, wore flat several times & eventually I didn't have enough wood left to re-shape the sole to restore the curve. The mouth doesn't have to be fine, this is more of a scrub plane than a smoother, but the mouth on my first plane had grown huge, so I decided its useful life was over. I would like to have made an all-metal sole on this one, but I could not see how to do that without starting with a huge chunk of brass so I settled for the short strip in front of the mouth, which was a rough-shaped chunk through-pinned to the sides hen refined to the sole curve after assembly.

Apart from that brass cross-piece, it's just a simple laminated plane using metal for the sides of the sandwich. The sides were epoxied to the core pieces and then through-pinned with brass rivets. The construction is pretty easy really - it was not a difficult thing to make.

The bull oak infill is also an order of magnitude tougher than the bean, & this one shows very little wear after some use. I haven't made many chairs these last few yeas so it hasn't had anywhere near the workout #1 got. I reckon this one will see me out easily...

Cheers,

Originally Posted by ian

I'm counting 10 shaves

Is that "the lot" or do you have a few more "lurking" somewhere?

No more metal shaves lurking:
8 x Stanleys (63, 64, 55, 65, 51, 53, 62, 60) a Preston and a Falcon F151.

I do have some woodies lurking but they'll get their own rack someday!

V