Thread: Another tool holder build (spoke shave rack)

Hi Derek. Thanks for those. So the blade pins are still held in place by friction? And the metal stops wear on the timber?

And I can't help myself, your travishers look ravishing!!

MA, by friction I guess you mean held fast by the screwed sides. Then yes. Loosen the screws and slide the blade back-and-forth.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

To understand this, one must use a travisher ...

I was using one to hollow this seat ...





The depth of cut is minimal, however the mouth has a slight curve in front of the blade - this is critical for performance .. rock the mouth forward, and the cut is very fine; rock it back, and the cut is coarser. (EDIT - it could be the other way around - too early in the day to think straight!)

STOP IT !!

there's enough tool pawn on this site already. (IanW, I'm looking at you )




are both those travishers made by you, or were one, or both, made in the US by Peter Galbert or Claire Minihan ?

Ian, I made both. I corresponded with both Pete and Claire. I purchased Claire’s video. It is a little dated. One travisher’s blade/wear (the straight one) follows the early design, and the other blade/wear is the updated version. They both work well, but the newer design gets into corners better.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

How do you sharpen these curved blades?

Originally Posted by ian

STOP IT !!

there's enough tool pawn on this site already. (IanW, I'm looking at you ) ...

'Twasn't me sir! I wasn't going to post a pic of my travisher, because it is a shameless plagiarism of Derek's, but since you asked: T3.jpg T5.jpg

And to prove my honest intentions, I was witholding pics of the infill compass plane I made to assist my travisher: DR 20.jpg DR 19.jpg

Originally Posted by IanW

'Twasn't me sir! I wasn't going to post a pic of my travisher, because it is a shameless plagiarism of Derek's, but since you asked: T3.jpg T5.jpg

And to prove my honest intentions, I was witholding pics of the infill compass plane I made to assist my travisher: DR 20.jpg DR 19.jpg

More She Oak? Very nice!!

Originally Posted by derekcohen

MA, by friction I guess you mean held fast by the screwed sides. Then yes. Loosen the screws and slide the blade back-and-forth.

Regards from Perth

Derek

My experience with wooden bodied spoke shaves is limited to the earliest type with a blade that has two square sectioned pins coming off at right angles to the cutting edge. These are adjusted by tapping closer or further away from the body to open or close the mouth (all of which I'm sure you know - preaching to the choir here). I'm just intrigued by the mechanics of yours and trying to work out the relationship between the metal bits. So much more to discover

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

More She Oak? Very nice!!

Travisher is she-oak, plane is infilled with bull-oak, slightly darker, and a bit denser, so (hopefully) a little more durable. The brass crosspiece in front of the mouth is because the first compass plane I made wore really quickly at the mouth, there must be be a lot of force & abrasion at that point....

Just a little follow-up.

Here's how it wound up with a finish on it, and against the wall.

PXL_20201024_001145319.jpg

(No-need to tell me the cleat-wall itself is a disaster in terms of looks - replacing that is another project!)

Originally Posted by yvan

Derek,

How do you sharpen these curved blades?

The easiest way is to unscrew the blade, and power buff the edge. Alternately, run the hollow ground bevel over stones.

Here are pictures taken when making the blade. First bend the unhardened steel, then use a form to grind the hollow ...





Ian, I imagine you do something similar?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by IanW

Travisher is she-oak, plane is infilled with bull-oak, slightly darker, and a bit denser, so (hopefully) a little more durable. The brass crosspiece in front of the mouth is because the first compass plane I made wore really quickly at the mouth, there must be be a lot of force & abrasion at that point....

More Bull Oak! I love it

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Ian, I imagine you do something similar? .....

TBH, I can't remember which order I did it in Derek, but I have a feeling I ground the edge before I bent my blade - a little easier to grind the straight edge. Final sharpening would've been with stones, for sure.

I've only used mine twice since I made it (how I wish I'd had it when I was making chairs seemingly by the dozen!), and that was for two toddler-sized chairs for grandchildren, so I haven't even re-sharpened the blade yet....

Cg, your wall looks fine to me - it's even painted!

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Cgcc

Just a little follow-up.

Here's how it wound up with a finish on it, and against the wall.

PXL_20201024_001145319.jpg

(No-need to tell me the cleat-wall itself is a disaster in terms of looks - replacing that is another project!)

Chris, actually, your wall is prime for hanging cabinets! .... into one of which will go the fine shave holder you made

Regards from Perth

Derek