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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    519

    Default Made a tote handle for a 5 1/2

    Still at early stages of the journey, but today I had some time and decided to push on with trying to make a tote handle to replace one which I repaired (badly) but was never going to be up to scratch.

    I used a piece of brushbox that I pulled out of an offcut bin at a supplier at Salisbury in Brisbane.

    Towards the end of the day as spare time ran out, decide to just "go with it". I regret it a little now because when I added some shellac then wax some little bumps and imperfections became obvious. However it feels great in the hand. Also, there are little edges at the toe that stick out unnecessarily.

    I thought I would post for - as much as anything - encouragement to any other newbies. Get in there and have a go, and see how rough it started! It is in the plane sole because each photo because in the first photo I wanted to check the screws fit in the sole, and for the latter, I wanted to keep checking how it felt lifting the plane.

    I followed the instructions for the Lee Valley template but not too closely. I did not have imperial drill bits so used the nearest equivalent mm and they were fine. The basic technique is to get a blank of roughly the right specifications, and then drill holes and but it's very important the bottom edge and faces are square and parallel for tapping the hole for the rod.

    A good tip I saw on a Youtube video which I managed to follow was to ensure you cut the hole for the toe before removing any waste other than the wedge at the base. Otherwise you are drilling into a fragile area that might split. Also, I found it very handy to use a handsaw to carefully cut a straight wedge off the base, because then you can use that wedge to clamp the base square and get the toe hole just right.

    A lot of lessons learnt, but feels great having the confidence that the next time I have a good quality offcut I can try again for an improvement! It is certainly not as nice as a posh Veritas handle but for me just as functional.


    Handle 3.jpgHandle 2.jpgHandle 1.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    6,973

    Default

    CGCC.

    There’s nothing like holding, using a tool you have made yourself, or a tool in your instance that you have put your own touch on.
    Well done for getting on with it, an well done on the tote.
    Top stuff.

    Cheers Matt

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
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    Default

    Good job. I would be interested in your impressions after a little while using it. Your handle appears to be wider than standard, as is the one I made. I far prefer the wider handle as it distributes the pressure over a wider area of my hand, so is more comfortable.

  5. #4
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    Oct 2019
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    Default

    Will do, Lance.

    It is slightly narrow compared to the template guide - about 17mm wide and almost nothing taken off the sides. I think it perhaps appears wider because it is left "boxier" and not as rounded-over as factory ones including at the base.

    I was comparing the grip with the original and - as you note - it felt it filled up the hand a bit more. My method towards the end when it was getting close was simply to grab it, and wherever it felt like it was pushing into my hand or there was uneven pressure, work that part back a bit, until it felt like it was distributing pressure roughly evenly.

    I did notice when I put my hand back on the original that the original was much rounder. But I was not bothered as the slightly boxier shape felt good.

  6. #5
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    Thanks Matt - you're right!

    I have been both demoralised but also amazed by learning hand planes. Amazing when they work just right but demoralising when they stop working and you don't know why.

    What I like most I think about setting one up from scratch or repairing is that I know when I've bought it up from junk that I can always restore to wherever I've gotten it to.

    On the other hand, I've taken some Veritas tools home and almost been scared to use them because I won't know how to return them to peak performance.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
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    67
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    Default

    I have watched Terry O'Loughlin make several totes.

    When you get to refining the shape, some 60Grit sand paper, wrapped around a 19mm diameter dowel, does a great job on those inside curves

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
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    Default

    Hi Cgcc. Noice! I remember when I replaced my first one and the sense of satisfaction is great. I used a roundover bit in the router table but never again. The handle still has a little bite in it. I now use rasps, files and sandpaper to finish and it works much better (and is much safer). I also tried orienting the grain longitudinally (because they always seem to split across the handle) and it split across the base. I guess the toolmakers knew what they were doing, hey ��

  9. #8
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    Default

    Thanks, good idea. I used a spindle sanding cylinder in the drill press


    I had initially thought of using a roundover but was worried about was worried about a clamping strategy. I was worried that anything that would clamp the handle firmly enough might damage some narrower parts.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Hobart, Tas
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    Default

    With respect to shaping, I had the most success with carving it with my marking knife.

    Cgcc, if you're interested, you can read about my attempt, which is pretty similar to yours at Making a Veritas style tote for my Stanley #4 plane – Lance's Workbench

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Default

    Cgcc. If you watch much YouTube, Wood by Wright had a good video on shaping totes also

  12. #11
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    First up, good on you for jut getting stuck in. You can't expect a perfect result on your first attempt at most things, but you will nearly always learn some valuable lessons.

    I'll give you an honest critique - you've been a bit too tentative with the shaping, but the good news is you can always take more off, unlike the reverse problem. I reckon you'll find it even more comfy if you round it more where the toe turns up into the grip, it'll let your pinky sit much more comfortably in that rather tight space.

    A rasp is definitely your best friend when shaping totes, and the next best tool is strips of cloth-backed paper.
    Cheers,
    IW

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Default

    A spokeshave can also come in handy.
    Last edited by Mountain Ash; 2nd June 2020 at 07:46 PM. Reason: Spelling mistake

  14. #13
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    A spokeshave can also come in handy.
    P'raps if you have one of those cute little Gordon spokeshaves, MA. but I find little use for my 'regular' size shaves (Veritas) on handles & totes. Too many grain-changes & too-tight circles, which is why rasps are my preferred weapons. And if you have a coarse one for the rough work & a finer one to put a better surface on the wood before switching to paper, so much the better. I would warn that cheap rasps from the hardware chains are next to useless, like files, there's a world of difference in going up-market a little. But you don't have to mortgage the house to buy a set of Liogiers or Aurious (though they are the ultimates if money is no object!), there are some quite decent Italian hand-cut rasps that don't cost the earth.

    I also find narrow strips of saw plate made into scrapers are also a great aid to finishing, particularly on tougher woods like Casarinas & Acacias, most of which scrape nicely...
    Cheers,
    IW

  15. #14
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    Default

    Hi Ian - agreed. I was pleasantly surprised to find that high-end rasps do not cost the world. They seem to be an item that should be in every beginner's kit.

    I think I will eventually go at it again and round over more as you suggest.

  16. #15
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    Default

    Hi Ian. Have you got any more info on the Italian rasps? Also I'm not lucky enough to have any Mr Gordon's planes but get great delight from using the old style wooden bodied ones. I am still coming to grips with their idosyncracies but when they cut well they cut really well.

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