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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sale
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,329

    Smile

    The plastic grips aren't to bad, I took soundy's advice and cleaned up an Aussie #4 I'd bought new in the 70's and was always a bit ordinary. Did much the same with the plastic knob and tote, filed the frog and generally refitted the thing and lightly flattened the sole which was pretty good anyway other than a couple of dings that are still there. It's become a good user and one I'd stick with.

    However I did take a punt on ebay and bought a #ten that had been broken in two through the arch and then bronzed. The description indicated it may not have been a break which was of course crap but the repair was good with the sole only slightly out. Bugger rubbing the thing back it was given to a friend who machine ground the base trimming only a slight amount, it's since been lapped and blade sharpened and is a good user. Because of the break though I doubt its worth a pinch of the proverbial if resold but that is not the intention.

    John

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
    Age
    50
    Posts
    4,844

    Default

    If you want a working plane. And your not into collecting, any old plane will do.

    Just, don't stuff around. Pick up the first plane you see. Be observant and fix whats stuffed. Gets some sandpaper and glass or whatever for flatterning.

    must have.....
    - flat sole, at least 3 high spots with one just before mouth.
    - flat frog top so the blade sits flats and slides well.
    - SHARP BLADE <- focus on that most of all. Feather the edges, so you don't run little lines in your work.

    There are other details that improve things, but, if you got those 3 things covered you'll be able to true your boards, even if you've got no handles. In fact, I quite like using an old stanley that hasn't got a handle.Wear a glove, and you've got a great deal more control with your hand pushing right under the frog...... If your still, obviously, completely stuffing up. Then be observant. Ask yourself 'why?' and your should be able to fix it yourself. There really quite simple things. Everything must remain FIXED for starters. The shavings must be able to get out cleanly....

    Learn how to sharpen and use it. You will be able to true boards with any plane. Most of the stuffing up will be caused by users inexperience.

    After this, if your STILL enjoying it. Get into the details. Cause the details are very time consuming and a distraction from woodwork.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    United States Of America
    Posts
    194

    Default Hand planes.

    Some of the older hand planes if not neglected & dont have mismatched parts are good quality indeed. Some antique planes are priced right & it seems antique plane parts are too expensive.
    Sure I like antique hand planes with oxblood wood handles that have not been tampered with & messed up by someone trying to fixing a hand plane then selling it for an outrageous price just because its old.
    If I could afford to I would buy a New Dream hand plane $200 -$300 with adjustable mouth & maybe bevel up design with hardened thicker blade.
    When compared to $15 for my junk garage sale jack plane #5 with mismatched parts & many problems giving me my first bitter taste for a hand plane. Basically it would cost approx $20.00 for a standard new blade & $13 for parts & a handle kit costing $20-25 I'll keep it in case I come across some better compatible used parts. I already hand carved new handles as I have large hands. It now works fair even with mismatched parts.
    Should a hand plane shine like a reiw view mirror right out of the box? I guess that depends on how much money was paid for a new plane.
    I've heard a lot of complaints in general about various planes not being shiny enough or flat enough. Some woods have natural abrasives in them What are you going to do then when youre new $200 - $400 hand plane sole distorts & is no longer flat. I recently bought a book about making wooden hand planes. I'm sure I'll have to tune a wooden from time to time.
    I think a $45 -59 hand plane brand new is a good value for some homeowners just starting out & learning to use a name brand hand plane.
    If I find myself using & enjoying a less expensive hand plane more often. Sure! I will most likely save back for my low angle almost friction free dream super plane costing $275.00-$600
    I deliberately purchased a priced matched $10 well designed asian import not well known #4 smooth with frog screw adj. that looked like a reasonable smooth plane with a really rough sole that was square to the sides.
    Why? I have never lapped the sole of any hand plane before & I didnt want to mess up my $49 common major name brand hand plane sole.
    It took 3 hours almost non stop. It was actually fun watching the metal gradually shine up! I had to use 50Grit 80,120,360 finally 400 for a reasonable almost mirror finish. I checked using my machinist protractor. It ended up square enough to the sides & flat after lapping on cast iron table saw using spray adhesive.

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