Thread: What type of hand saw to use?

Can't see crosscut mentioned anywhere - it says "mixed" which sounds like a hybrid xcut/rip. I think I'd be inclined to give the Japanese Pull saw a go actually ($20 + post). If you're a beginner then you probably won't have a "muscle memory" problem with pull saws, and I expect it would give you a nice thin kerf.

AS for this:
"For your safety, you should always wear eye protection and gloves when using this product"

ummmm, p'raps not. Although if you become proficient with it you may need ear muffs


Just looked again - it's 46cm long so the kerf may not be that fine, although if that includes the handle then the blade is probably about 30cm, so maybe still a thin kerf (it'd be good if it specified).

I thought I remember FF (maybe) talking about a good, cheap japanese-style saw with replaceable blades ... ?

There's these from Carbatech, eg ... no doubt others similar on ebay ... 40ish tpi ... 0.3mm ... about $40 ...

http://www.carbatec.com.au/japanese-...16ncb0d71iv394

Cheers,
Paul

Japanese style saws would be ideal for your requirements: they typically have very thin blades, as they cut on the pull-stroke, keeping the blade in tension as it cuts. Western saws cut in compression as they are pushed & therefore need to be thicker and self-stiffening. Less energy to cut a thin kerf & obviously less timber wastage: also, marginally more accurate in ripping mode.

Some however will be better than others. A "Ryoba" style is a dbl. sided rip/x-cut variety that may fit the bill. Otherwise, an alternative single sided rip style might be preferred.

There's differences in the tooth geometry between Japanes and western saws also, and between rip & x-cut in both styles. Contrary to what the marketers will say many modern impulse-hardened styles of saw will do both, just not as well as a dedicated single use style.

In regard to your Q about "TPI" it's a reference to the term "teeth per inch". With tooth no. 0 at 0 on the measure, the following teeth are counted up to an inch along the measure. A more traditional count was in "points", seldom used these days, which actually counted tooth 0 as well. This mean that an 8 TPI count would be known as a 9 Point measure. Clear as mud? Sometimes I manage to confuse myself too!

The lower the count, the "coarser" the cut. In western saws, rip saws were longer 28", 30" and even up to 36" with 3, 3 1/2 or 4 TPI., X-cut 26" 6, 7 or 8 TPI, and panel saws (for thinner cuts in sheet materials, floorboards, weatherboards etc.) 24", 22" or 20" with 8 (on the longer) or 10 TPI on the shorter.

Japanese saws are finer, shorter and smaller, but still conform to similar size conventions as their western counterparts. Typically rip saws have longer wider blades with less teeth per inch. They are still small, however, and infinitely better suited to your needs than a monster sized western rip saw.

There are some Japanese saw specialists around, but the best selection is on the interweb, with Axminster (UK) and Dick Fine Tools (Germany) being e-tailers that I've dealt with successfully in the past.

Originally Posted by Ratbag

A more traditional count was in "points", seldom used these days, which actually counted tooth 0 as well. This mean that an 8 TPI count would be known as a 9 Point measure.

I wish you were right about it being seldom used now, but when I was doing the saw file research I found the the entire USA refers to PPI, most of UK, and much of Oz. TPI is far more logical, but in the end I had to concede that PPI was just too often used

Summat else I might mention too. These eastern saws have extremely hard steels in them, making them extremely long-lasting IF USED WITH CARE. Hardness = brittleness unfortunately. They can snap if abused.

I'd suggest using a smaller, cork-lined vise to hold your blanks. Set it up at about 45 degrees in the centre top in line with the jaws & with the bottom third clamped. Cut 2/3 through & then invert, wedging your first cut. This will hopefully minimise wastage, & prevent that deadly metal to metal contact that would instantly kill your expensive saw's ability to cut.

Just as with Japanese chisels, there's a bewildering array of saws available at an equally dazzling range of price points. A mass produced machine made saw will give you 75-80% effectiveness, but there's also a whole range of smith-made ultra hard ultra ultra thin saws also (they hand forge, hammer & shave them to thickness by hand), which need to be treated like family heirlooms & are priced accordingly.

Personally I think it's a lot of ballyhoo. Who cares if the saw is made an aged smith who did his apprenticeship 80 odd years ago, and has a secret stash of thousand year old medieval anchor chain steel at his disposal?

Ratbag thanks! Your advise on the vise usage is what I do.


archerwinsak.blogspot.com.au

I actaully bought the Tajima Japan pullsaw yesterday. I'll try it this week as there'll be some downtime staying at home with the kids during the term break.


archerwinsak.blogspot.com.au

I think Ratbag has given excellent advice. Though I'm not a pull saw fan, they certainly suit many folks, so who cares which way the saw cuts if it does the job for you! Just one thing I would add, which you've probably decided for yourself anyway - get some practice sawing straight & true with your new saw, before tackling your precious scale wood. Thin saws make thin kerfs, but are also a bit more prone to wander if you're not careful. You can minimise this by making a deep line with your marking gauge, then running a shallow kerf all the way round the piece. This gives the saw an 'easy' path to follow.

Disclaimer: My experience is virtually 100% push saws, but I can't see why this won't work equally well for pull saws.

Cheers,

I would have also suggested the pull saw.

I also agree with what IanW has said.