Thread: What type of Tool is this???

Hi Steve

Your set of screwdrivers are "cabinet screwdrivers". I have the same pattern. Mine are about 50 years old. They are different to the one originally asked about. Alf is much more knowledgeable about such that I, and no doubt Sammie is as well. I would go with her (their) estimate of age.

Here are a couple of turnscrews of my own:

<div><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Screwdrivers/Turnscrews.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Sammy,
I got shown how to do this shifter/Crescent idea by an old British joiner I used to work with in the '70's. I had a closer look at my old style screwdriver and it differs, in that the main shaft is round until the forged flat section near the handle. Oval turned handle, not flat. Different tool, and does work well (using said shifter) on stuck painted screws, maybe not Kosher though:eek: .

Cheers,

Originally Posted by TassieKiwi

Hey BigPop - is that the new 10" JET supersaw in your avatar? Do you have one? I've been told that they arrive early '06?

Den

No mate it is a 10" Left Tilting JET Table saw JTAS-10XL with a 50" XACTA Fence. Have had it for a few years now and am over the moon with it. Does all I want it to and more

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Steve

Your set of screwdrivers are "cabinet screwdrivers". I have the same pattern. Mine are about 50 years old. They are different to the one originally asked about. Alf is much more knowledgeable about such that I, and no doubt Sammie is as well. I would go with her (their) estimate of age.

Here are a couple of turnscrews of my own:





Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek!

Ah! yes I see. Quite a bit different really. Those turnscrews look really nice.

One thing about the cabinet screwdrivers, though, is that they fit one's hand very well - and perhaps more importantly, fit the nice brass 'real' woodscrews that I now use in favour or Mr Philips', admittedly clever, invention.

Totally off on a non-related tangent (!!?!): I tried over the week-end using the fingers-under the sole guiding method when planing with a #7 (as I need to keep a flat surface along the length) a longish (730mm) but narrow (30 tapering to 15mm) piece of stock to try and keep the four sides perpendicular to each other. Thankfully I was trying this out on a spare piece as I got in a real tangle - ended up with a ruddy corkscrew:eek: Ok, only a couple of mm/degrees out, but noticable all the same. With this size of stock a fence isn't much use. Any hints please?

Cheers!

I tried over the week-end using the fingers-under the sole guiding method when planing with a #7 (as I need to keep a flat surface along the length) a longish (730mm) but narrow (30 tapering to 15mm) piece of stock to try and keep the four sides perpendicular to each other. Thankfully I was trying this out on a spare piece as I got in a real tangle - ended up with a ruddy corkscrew Ok, only a couple of mm/degrees out, but noticable all the same. With this size of stock a fence isn't much use. Any hints please?

Hi Steve

Two ideas immediately spring to mind:

1. Can you mark a line around the sides? This will keep you from planing away more than you need to.

2. Scribble over the top surface. Plane away the scribble. That way you can see where you are planing (one side more than the other).

As you practice more, so it become more intuitive.

Use a small square frequently to gauge your progress.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Ahhhhhhh......Derek....Derek Cohen???? "Her" inn the post above? I'm actually a bloke .......Derek....The subriquet is actually the product of a family joke, m'h daughter is Vanessa aka "Nessie" and HER sign off line is "NessieQ". Now, the only female wood butcher from Blighty gracing these pages that I know of is "Alf" aka "Jester" or Alice - see also, Ukworkshop.co.uk. Now, where did I put my HRT pills?Sam

I'm actually a bloke

Sammie

I never doubted it for one unisexual moment . The "her" I was referring to was the articulate Alf (of your shores), here under the pseudonym of UKalf.

Regards from Perth

Derek

DOOHHH!!! Having a senior moment! That'll teach me to read more slowly. Gotta go, Guide Dog needs walkies.....Sam

SCREWDRIVER it realy is that simple

Originally Posted by derekcohen

here under the pseudonym of UKalf.

Not my fault, guv. "Alf" was taken.

Nice turnscrews/screwdrivers btw, Derek; beautifully posed with similarly desirable tools. (pause to drool)


Cheers, Alf

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Steve

Two ideas immediately spring to mind:

1. Can you mark a line around the sides? This will keep you from planing away more than you need to.

2. Scribble over the top surface. Plane away the scribble. That way you can see where you are planing (one side more than the other).

As you practice more, so it become more intuitive.

Use a small square frequently to gauge your progress.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek!

Thanks for that.

I did scribble over the surface (per Mr Charlesworth's excellent DVD from LN), but found that I kept on getting full width cuts, and despite there being marked lines on each side relative to the surface being planed, when checking with a square, I found I was getting further out rather than closer:mad:

Tried again this afternoon, after giving some scrap a "good hard looking at" and giving the LV BU Jointer "a good talking to"

Lo and behold, all nice and square. Tried a few very light cuts on the legs for the side table I'm cobbling up - and it worked very well

As you said, I just need practice I guess. Glad that I tried on some scrap first though

The fence that was supplied "free" with Th LV BU Jointer is a good one (after some minor adjustment), but can't really work with a narrow piece held in a vice - nothing for it to index against.

Also, I have noticed that Red Gum takes the edge off pretty darn quickly, so tomorrow's first job is a bit of fettling of some plane irons - might as well do the lot - and the chisels whilst I've got the stuff out. Drat - there goes the morning

Cheers - and thanks again Derek!