Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Posts
    743

    Default Veritas Low angle block plane tote fix

    First and foremost, I think Veritas products are excellent but! The tote for the low angle block plane is crap. As far as I'm concerned tools should never be made from aluminium, especially cast aluminium.

    You may have one and had it break like mine did. Here's a fix.

    I bought the handle a few decades ago thinking it would turn the block plane into a nice versatile plane, far more than it was already. But when it showed up one thing was very clear from the outset. It's design and material used, cast aluminium, was a recipe for it to fail - quickly. And it did. The first thing to break off was one of the thin fork ends. But I limped it along... Then the other broke off when the handle fell off the bench onto concrete. At that point it was completely useless and lived the next 25 years in the drawer. A few months ago, I started going through all my tools and culling anything that I deemed of no value to my work. A lot of tools, no matter how painful to get rid of them, were moved on. The tote was slated to be binned as it was useless. But a small voice in my head said, there may be hope for this pathetic piece yet, as I believed the concept was good. So, it was thrown back in the drawer to await its fate. Fast forward to last night. I had just made a new cabinet to house my sudden interest in western saws and was deciding on what to put in the, as yet to be filled, other drawer. Appearing again was the tote. So I put aside my main task and pulled out a bunch of files and such and got to work, and drinking beer, to figure out if it could be salvaged...

    The pics are the result. I filed the base of the forks flat and filed the seats on the plane to increase the footprint as much as possible, so as to spread the forces acting on these two crucial points. I also filed the tops of the fork so the surfaces were flat, relative to the bottom faces. I also didn't trust the threaded holes used to anchor the tote to the plane. I think they're too shallow for the amount of torque the screws need to secure the tote, so I drilled though the base (all the Lee Valley disciples gasped!!) and re-tapped so as to maximize the amount of thread the screws would have to hold. To be honest I wouldn't normally drill a hole in any of my planes but this one isn't going anywhere soon. I've had it since the late eighties, and it's on its third blade. It's seen a lot of work, though I no longer carry it on my tool belt anymore so for the most part the tote will probably live on it, at least till it breaks again. I also had to file out the notches on the fork to allow for the screws, trying to leave as much meat on the forks as these are the weak points. Also, because the tote has moved forward about 5mm the adjuster knob now clashes with the tote fork. So I filed a fair bit of meat out to allow the knob to have full movement again. I don't think this will weaken the fork. To anchor it I used counter sunk head screws and high tensile strength washers. The idea around the counter sunk heads is they would allow the washers to adjust to sit flat on the top of the fork even if the surfaces weren't perfectly flat and or parallel to the bottom surfaces - maximizing the surface area they would bear down on. And the high tensile washers weren't going to deflect or bend - ever. So they were cranked down pretty hard.

    Overall 4 beers and couple hours and it works again - at least for now.

    Whoever designed it had no idea about material strength or their appropriate use. I get that aluminum is cost effective and easy to work with but it's a crap material for tools. I don't think even extruded and CNC'd aluminum is appropriate for such a use. The fork should have been made from cast steel because of the forces that would be exerted on those points guaranteed it's failure.

    YMMV
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,134

    Default

    As you say, "fixed for now".

    Drilling through the sole seems a bit heroic, but the holes won't affect the plane's performance in any way - there are a few old Stanleys out there that have had the tote screws driven through the sole either deliberately or accidentally.

    I've never been a fan of Veritas's handles on their bench planes, neither the angle nor the shaping are satisfactory to my taste. There was much discussion about the angles on their totes back in the day, and Veritas claimed they'd chosen it after feedback from many testers, though I've always wondered how many used the test planes for a very long session! Most owners seem to have gotten used to them over the years; the complaining has died off, at any rate.

    Being rusted on to (old) Stanley totes & knobs, I found the totes on the BU smoother & scraper I have really hard to live with - not nice in the hand & too upright for any serious planing on my bench, which was deliberately made to a height that suits me for hand-plane use based on Stanley planes. The upright Veritas handles are ok if you hold your work at a higher level, but I can't put my back into it with a higher bench, which means more arm work & less momentum from the body, and that gets tiring very quickly.

    I put up with it for a while but eventually scrapped the original handle for something much more like a 'real' tote. I had two goes at it, the first was a bit tentative because I couldn't fit the two studs through without them coming out front or back. This is try #1 compared with the original: Old and new.jpg

    That was better, but still not sloped forward enough. After thinking about it for a while I reckoned I could do a "full Stanley" if I bent the studs where they exit the sole. Luckily, Veritas uses common old 1/4" NC threads, so I got a bit of all-thread (ok, so it's BSW, not NC, but close enough for the bush) and tried out the concept. It was much easier than I'd anticipated to put the necessary bends in the studs so they would stay within the wood of a tote of the same profile as a Stanley. So now my Veritas planes sport totes that I can live happily with. This is the first & second attempt compared: handles cf.jpg

    Actually, I didn't scrap the original woodwork, I've kept them so when I pass the tools on to new owners they can choose what they prefer (so long as I can find them & the termites haven't taken a fancy to them!).

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Posts
    743

    Default

    Oh man. I always have thought the veritas design was awful but when you see two pics close together like that it really reinforces it doesn't it. Your handles make them look a lot nicer. That's the problem coming to sites like this. Something else I can put on the list to make.


    Interestingly. I pulled out all my veritas and it appears the newer it is the more they've mimicked the stanley handle angle. The jack rabbet is my newest and the handle, though still ugly, is very similar angle to my bedrock. I have a couple screw rabbets also and they're handles are leaned forward also. Whereas my smoother, from the late eighties, is upright

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor View Post
    ....... I pulled out all my veritas and it appears the newer it is the more they've mimicked the stanley handle angle.....
    That's an interesting observation, I haven't looked closely at any Veritas planes for many a year, so that had escaped my notice. I wonder if it's a response to more recent consumer feedback? When they were challenged in the early days on those 'orrible excuses for a handle (like on my smoother), they were rather defensive & claimed it was what we all wanted! P'raps more folks have taken to using their tools for longer sessions & discovered how awful the upright handles are, & why tools that were made to be used seriously all day every day had handles that are a bit easier on the user.....

    Cheers,
    IW

Similar Threads

  1. SOLD: Four Veritas Accesories for Low-Angle Block Plane
    By woodPixel in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11th April 2023, 12:33 PM
  2. SOLD: Veritas Miniature Hand Tools - Spokeshave, Router Plane, Low Angle Block Plane
    By Dean in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 20th January 2022, 12:13 AM
  3. SOLD: Veritas Low Angle Block Plane with Extras
    By Scribbly Gum in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 13th May 2021, 11:24 PM
  4. QUEENSLAND Veritas low angle block plane
    By jw2373 in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 23rd August 2020, 08:01 PM
  5. N.S.W. Veritas Low Angle Block Plane
    By Ruddy in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 23rd August 2020, 09:49 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •