Thread: Veritas rip saw chatter??

Its a new saw, so the teeth will probably have a trace of 'feather edge' from the machine sharpening process - basically its too sharp, at least compared to what you are used to. Just get some off cuts & practice starting cuts - since its a rip saw you are not going to be worried about 1st, 2nd or 3rd grade cuts, just go at it. You'll find eventually that you & the saw will come to an agreement

It may also have a more aggressive tooth profile than you are used to, and from memory there is no fleam on their rip saw as supplied, just straight 90 degrees, but most hand filed saws have at least a couple of degrees of fleam (but less than a crosscut saw), so it will take a bit of getting used to if you have been using re-sharpend saws in the past.

As bslee says with an extra question probably silly. Are you cutting across the grain?

Chook, I would have said you are putting too much pressure on the saw, but you say you have tried easing off to the point where it doesn't cut at all, so that seems to be rule that out. It's possible that your saw got through QC with a couple of high teeth, but Veritas are usually pretty careful with what goes out the door,so that also seems unlikely.

My next guess is that you are cutting hard wood, & cutting straight across the grain. That will test any rip saw, and any sawyer, particularly if the saw has a relatively high rake angle. Try starting the rip cut with the tooth line of the saw at about 30-45 degrees to the direction of the grain, and only bring it to 'horizontal' to finish the cut (e.g. when cutting a tenon shoulder). The saw should cut noticably more smoothly when used this way. If it's chattering on soft woods, then I'm beat - would have to have it in my hand to offer any other opinion......

Cheers,

Originally Posted by chook

I have bought a Veritas rip saw. When I try to use the thing it hops and chatters around in the saw cut so badly that it is almost unusable. It bites and seizes and bounces in a way I would not have believed possible of a saw. I have tried lifting the saw slightly so that the downward weight on the timber is reduced but unless I do this to such an extent that the saw does not cut at all, the problem remains.

What is going on here?

from the Lee Valley site
As supplied, these saws will have residual sharpening burrs on the teeth. These will disappear as the saw is "broken in".

Try lightly stoning the edge of the teeth -- very fine stone two or three light strokes

other possible
the saw is a rip saw?
you're not trying to rip with a crosscut saw?

I assume you are cutting with the grain as this is a rip saw. You don't say what material you are cutting, whether this is a tenon saw, dovetail saw, or panel saw. It would also help to know what pitch your saw has and the thickness of stock you are cutting. All of these things need to be known to answer you question. mIt would help to know your skill level as well and how you are holding the work.
Mke

I have been sharpening the saw and this seems to have made some difference. I have often wanted to learn to sharpen saws and since the saw was not working anyway I cannot make it any worse! My initial attempts seem to have improved it a bit.

Originally Posted by chook

I have been sharpening the saw and this seems to have made some difference. I have often wanted to learn to sharpen saws and since the saw was not working anyway I cannot make it any worse! My initial attempts seem to have improved it a bit.

Are we talking second-hand then Chook?