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Thread: Veritas Tapered Plane Blades
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18th November 2013, 09:46 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Veritas Tapered Plane Blades
For all those budding plane makers out there, here is an interesting new product.
Veritas® Tapered Plane Blades - Lee Valley Tools
I can't image that they are planning to sell millions of them but nice to see it as an option.
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18th November 2013 09:46 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th November 2013, 11:09 PM #2
If only they had a slotted hole to take a chip breaker.
There's a boat inside me trying to get out.
Was it something I ate?
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20th November 2013, 11:33 AM #3
A question for the planies...is a chip breaker really necessary anyway? Karl Holtey doesn't think so...
Maybe one of these irons will be on the shopping list after all.There's a boat inside me trying to get out.
Was it something I ate?
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20th November 2013, 01:07 PM #4
I keep getting emails on this.
Handplane Iron and Chipbreaker Kit | ShopWoodworking…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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21st November 2013, 08:21 AM #5
Stevebaby, this has been debated at some length on several occasions on several forums.
The answer is 'no'.
The answer is 'yes'
Whatever floats your boat......
Tapered vs. parallel blades has also been debated ad nauseum. The argument given in the LV blurb that back pressure on the blade tends to tighten it sounds convincing, until you realise that any force that tightens the blade is tending to loosen the wedge, since it has the opposite taper. You could make an argument that for tapered blades, the holding power of the wedge is even more dependant on the friction between wood and metal, or wood & wood, of the opposing surfaces, because the same amount of linear movement of the wedge will cause a bigger gap. In practice, it doesn't seem to matter, most of the time - both parallel and tapered blades can work very well. I've got both, & can't say I notice any difference in holding ability due to blade shape. I did have a bit of initial bother with a small woodie I made from Cooktown Ironwood. The blade I used is a piece of very flat, polished HSS, and it wanted to slip on the very smooth blade bed. I rubbed a bit of crushed resin on the bed, & that problem went away.
One vice all of my woodies have is their propensity to drop the blade out through the mouth, instantly, when the wedge loosens the teeniest fraction. With one of mine in particular, if I am not concentrating on the task & restraining the blade when I strike the plane body to loosen it, I have a very short time to make some very critical decisions. Do I try to catch it and risk a cut hand, or let it go & face a major regrind after it meets something hard, like the concrete floor? (That is, provided I move any other part of my anatomy from the trajectory,very quickly!).
Cheers,IW
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21st November 2013, 01:02 PM #6Deceased
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Here is something to read on the debate.
Old Street Tool, Inc. - Plane Articles - Single Irons vs. Double Irons
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