Thread: Old wooden plane ... any ideas ?

Thinking now it was just for sliding dovetail joints..with the plane moving cross grain droping into the saw cuts which first established the shoulders ...ie. the saw kerf guides the plane.....like cutting tennons with that #140 stanley I suppose (from recently reading Dereks post on his #140 tuning).....saw cut first.

no idea

Jake

I wanna plane with a skewed blade for my shooting board. I'm unwilling to trash one of my babies.

I give youse $20 (after ya fettle it, natch) Thats 100% profit. Even the late, lamented Kezza would be happy with that.

Originally Posted by Bodgy

Jake

I wanna plane with a skewed blade for my shooting board. I'm unwilling to trash one of my babies.

I give youse $20 (after ya fettle it, natch) Thats 100% profit. Even the late, lamented Kezza would be happy with that.

cheap bugger...$20 !...... 100% profit minus 1/2hour of work - another 1/2 hour of humming and harring at the markets on whether or not I should buy it or not .......minus the postage I"M probably expected to pay...

no....I reakon $85.95.....If you ask nicely, I might take 10 bucks off. what ya reakon ?

Originally Posted by apricotripper

not .......minus the postage I"M probably expected to pay...

no....I reakon $85.95.....If you ask nicely, I might take 10 bucks off. what ya reakon ?

Bugger off

:d :d

Jake

I would say that that is a filletster, used to make cross grain rabbets.

It is lacking a depth gauge and fence, but it could be used nevertheless.

Here is my ECE moving filletster (before restoration).

<center> <div><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/ECEMovingFilletster1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br /></center>

Regards from Perth

Derek

Could be right Derek, I don't know....

but it doesn't make a flat cut. See that first picture. Angles down similar to a dovetail plane.

Jake

You're right.. I forgot that bit. .....It could clean up sliding dovetails that were cut with a saw and chisel. Yes?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by apricotripper

Could be right Derek, I don't know....

but it doesn't make a flat cut. See that first picture. Angles down similar to a dovetail plane.

could it be a worn panel raiser? The part of the sole past the blade would act as an inbuilt depth stop.

ian

Originally Posted by ian

could it be a worn panel raiser? The part of the sole past the blade would act as an inbuilt depth stop.

ian

Thanks Ian...Maybe your right too,

The only problem I have with that is, that as a panel raiser the blade would be slicing against grain, when going cross grain.....

So I'm leaning further towards it being an early dovetail plane. Also noticed as the blade skews, it will cut the tail well, but also for right hand use.....makes it look origional since most planes are right handed like everything else.

So, thinking, really its just like Dereks dovetail plane.....except his is left handed.....just add a fence, nicker and depth stop and its essentially the same thing.

Without the add on fence it would have needed to be guided intially by a saw kerf, or a clamped on batton I'm guessing.

Some kind of scribed line in advance a must, or saw kerf, since there's no nicker. ?

And plane to a line scribed off the ends of the stock, just by eye, since there's no depth stop........ ?

I found an hour after work this afternoon to flattern its sole, fix its blade and give it a quick go.

Just ran it along some scrap, using my supporting fingers as a makeshift fence....(just checking the general blade setting uno)...Can see in second photo that familiar dovetail profile.

There you go if anyones interested. Hoping someone would have something more concrete on it though,,,,better than my suspicions.

Jake,
I thought that sliding dovetails were always cut across the grain at the end of a board. How well would this plane do that, especially as it doesn't have knickers?
The only application I know of for long grain dovetails is making dovetail keys to hold moldings in place — but I think that using such keys is mostly an artifact of the router age, making the existance of a dedicated plane unlikely.

You could email a photo of the plane to The Traditional Tools Group in Sydney www.tttg.org.au and ask them.

The lack of a knicker (as compared to lack of knickers!) probably means a long grain dovetail cutter which could have made those beautiful long battens that slide into dovetail grooves to keep table tops flat!
... back to dinner!
Fletty

Thanks Fletty....sound that could be right.

Thanks Ian. I Didn't think of the keys. Maybe too. I'll write to traditional tools as well. Thanks for the idea.
From Ian
I thought that sliding dovetails were always cut across the grain at the end of a board. How well would this plane do that, especially as it doesn't have knickers?

I don't know if this is how they actually did use the plane or not, but here's a way you can use it without a nicker....

It makes sense to me that the main purpose of the nicker is to establish a clean initial cut ....uno so it looks neat on the surface....pull that off and you can clean up latter.

So, same way as Derek does such cuts....saw cut first. My hand saws are all blunt, and I didn't have much time today, so I just cross cut a kerf quickly on the table saw. Then back on workbench, plane in hand....and just take the first few cuts slowly using finger as a fence until you've dropped the cut enough that the side of the plane finds bearing off the shoulder.....picture 1.

Then just rip into it....the further you drop the more stable vertically it is cause you gain more bearing off shoulder as it deepens. Have to find the consistant depth with marking guage lines off edges and just shave to the lines.......since you don't have a depth stop. I didn't bother in this example, but I'd say thats a way to do it. ......pictures 2 and 3

I'm unaccustomed to planing without a fence I suppose, as you can see in the 3rd picture.....the shoulders off square a little. The whole process is much easier when your relying on fence bearing and not off side of plane, cause theres more bearing from the very beginning.

Also without nickers and fence that blade corner must be aligned to the side of plane next to perfect, or it won't drop cleanly

The planes skewing with the grain, but interestingly theres a little breakout ......picture 4.

Well what I've found is the more the blade skews the less likely this occurs along. Put my little dovetail plane beside it to show the difference in skew......my dovetail plane doesn't breakout because the skews so heavy.
picture 5. (old news ..shutup jake)

Anycase the old wooden plane works as a cross grain plane. Just not ideal I think.

Its got written on it that its made for a Mr Savage......I've never seen that before. Might mean something. Like a special order.