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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    That looks to be in pretty good overall condition. Probably good to go with just a sharpen. How much of a refurb had you planned?
    Regards
    John
    The whole plane, except the sole, was the "colour" of the wedge, greasy, dirty very dark grey/brown pushing on charcoal grey! I started the clean with a mix of linseed oil with turps rubbed on the surface with some 120 grit Wet & Dry, wiped clean with cotton rags. I changed to using metho with 320 grit W&D and removing the gunk with clean cotton rags and more metho. I was worried that the linseed/turps mix would leave a film, even after wiping the surfaces clean with fresh clean rags. The sole hasn't been touched but my intention is to fettle it with 320/400 grit paper stuck to a 9mm pane of glass. I plane to use a mix of beeswax and gun turpentine to wax the surfaces once clean.

    No signs of serious rust on either the blade or the iron. Unfortunately the bevel is quite irregular in width and may need a lot of elbow grease.

    Cheers Yvan

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  3. #17
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    Feb 2007
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    If the sole needs much work you will be a long time starting at 320g. I started at 120 and finished it off at 240. Being such a long plane I got a pac of longish sanding belts and opened them up at the glue join. Clamped the strip to the tablesaw wing and had an upper body workout. I found this video that mostly explains things for that sort of plane. One thing he did not do however was have the iron and wedge in when he flattened the sole.
    Restoring an antique wooden jointer plane for use. William Greenslade of Bristol, circa 1890-1940. - YouTube
    Here is a professional doing it but it was mostly flat to start with.
    Flattening the sole of a Wooden Hand Plane with Phil Edwards - YouTube
    I treated mine to a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and just waxed the sole with a paste wax polish
    All the best with the restoration.
    John

  4. #18
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    Yes John, I may have to start with a coarser grit if the sole is not reasonably flat.
    Thanks for the two YouTubes too. I am interested in the Teak Oil used in one of them. Had not heard of such an oil before.

    Cheers Yvan

  5. #19
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    I did a look for what is in teak oil and it is just thinned down tung or linseed or a mixture of both.
    How to Make Your Own Teak Oil | Hunker
    Linseed oil has always been the traditional oil for wood planes anyhow.
    Regards
    John

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by yvan View Post
    The sole hasn't been touched but my intention is to fettle it with 320/400 grit paper stuck to a 9mm pane of glass. I plane to use a mix of beeswax and gun turpentine to wax the surfaces once clean.
    Yvan
    why are you contemplating using an abrasive to true the sole of your plane?

    Not that I own many woodies, but I always understood that wooden plane soles were trued using a jointer plane -- preferably longer than the plane being worked on.
    If necessary, the plane's mouth is closed up using a wooden insert.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #21
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    Hi Ian,

    I do not have a longer plane available to true the sole.
    The pane of glass is 1000mm x 150mm and should do the trick.

    Cheers Yvan

  8. #22
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    the issue with using abrasive paper on glass is the possibility that abrasive particles will dislodge from the paper and become embedded in the woody's sole.
    If you have an iron plane that is shorter than the woody you just need to be a little more careful when planing the sole.



    Remember, that wood sticks longer than 8 feet can be edge jointed with a hand plane. The plane you use doesn't need to be longer than the woody's sole, it's just a preference
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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