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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Default Wooden shooting plane

    Hi all. My Easter break project is almost complete. As mentioned in a previous thread, I wanted to build a wooden shooting plane and after much discussion regarding angles, soles, handedness and precedents set by history, I began. As always timber needed prepping and it was with a small amount of smug self satisfaction that I used both my wooden Jack and my wooden Try planes for much of this project. Thanks particularly to IanW for his encouragement and prototyping - I used his bed angle of 38° and skew angle of 15°. As with my other 2 planes I again used the lamination (Krenov?) method and thankfully mocked up the body, the compoundedness of the internal angles took a bit of fiddling and if I had of skipped this I would have wasted some good Beech. The mortice for the handle got a bit "pointed" and I was very thankful for the tilting table on my drill press for the ease of drilling the holes for the wedge stop dowel. Shaping the blade was easy enough but I gave up very quickly trying to use a hacksaw on the R. Sorby blade. I will have to refine the angle a little, off by about a degree. Wedge shape was inspired by both Derek C and the difficulty I have in removing the same in my previous 2 builds. Most importantly, I have tried it and it works!!! I need to just fiddle with skew angle a smidge, thin the wedge a little to move it further from the end of the iron and apply some finish. I also changed my mind as to handle position and I'm glad I did. It feels right and I do like this style, copied from an original that I kept (even though it split trying to get it out of a donor plane). Enjoy the pics.

    Clamps aplenty
    20200411_110016.jpg
    Holdfasts made by a local blacksmith
    20200412_120738.jpg
    Outside angle
    20200413_161521.jpg
    Working side
    20200413_161531.jpg
    Fancy wedge
    20200413_161557.jpg
    The blade's in there somewhere
    20200413_161641.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    77
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    12,095

    Default

    You don't muck around, MA - seems like just a couple of days since you were talking about it, & it's done already!

    I usually need to fiddle with a few details to get any new plane working to full potential. I guess if you make lots of the same thing, you'd get it down pat, but I've only made a couple of designs more than once, so far. It looks like you don't have a lot of lateral adjustment room, so you would need to get the skew angle very close on the blade, alright.

    Let us know how you feel about the handle after you have used it a while. To me, it looks a bit high & far away from the action & I would find it hard to apply the little variations of pressure needed to . If/when I get around to making mine I think I'll keep it handle-less, or at most put a small knob just forward of the mouth like on planemaker's examples.

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    3,402

    Default

    Well done!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Dandenong Ranges
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    Default

    Thanks Ian and CT. Some of the photos were taken at the dining table. I brought it up from the workshop by way of explanation of what I had been up to! Hopefully handle placement encourages both pressure down (to encourage slicing) and against (to encourage square). My first thoughts about handle (on 45°) seem silly now but the examples on the last thread (turned and in front of blade) surely mean user has to hold on awkwardly and drag past timber. You're right, time will tell. Also Ian your planes are a little more advanced than mine

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Default

    Thanks also for the likes!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    4,882

    Default

    As said that was quick. It looks good. Was it a big job regrinding the blade?
    Regards
    John

  8. #7
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    Oct 2018
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    Dandenong Ranges
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    Default

    Hi John. I was most worried about overheating the blade so tried cutting it with a hacksaw at first. I'm pretty sure these blades are laminated and the hacksaw was just skating around on the face side (with logo) because it was too hard. Angle grinder, timber guide block and a spray bottle did the trick. And going slowly, I never let it get too hot to hold - even used my fingers to absorb the heat. Over to the grinder (white wheel) but normal speed and again, go slow. Dunked in water as required to keep cool to the touch. Water stones 800, 1200 and 6000, strop and then good to go. Actually had to refine angle this morning (same process) and square up base to "tune " for shooting. Applied finish and waiting for it to soak in.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
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    3,076

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post

    Let us know how you feel about the handle after you have used it a while. To me, it looks a bit high & far away from the action & I would find it hard to apply the little variations of pressure needed to . If/when I get around to making mine I think I'll keep it handle-less, or at most put a small knob just forward of the mouth like on planemaker's examples.

    Cheers,
    Somewhat behind it will serve you better so that you can mimic the angle approaching the mouth on a bench plane.

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