Thread: Wooden tool chest

I didn't mean to imply that most baltic pine was brought out as dunnage, Ian. It was a very significant minority. If it was imported as cargo there were very high customs duty payable,. up until Bob Hawke started demolishing the tariffs.

In 1907, whilst well into the steam age, there were still a lot of sailing ships carrying low value cargoes such as grain, wool, timber, ores, etc - stuff that was not time critical. If the grain ships and wool ships could could not get a bulk load for the outward leg to Australia they would take on a load of ballast and sail "in ballast". A ship in ballast could take on a part cargo or small cargo and still be regarded as sailing in ballast. Such cargo could include baltic pine.

Although ballast tanks were invented in the 1850"s, prior to WW1 most steam ships only had single skins and ballast tanks were quite rare. Essentially, they used the same ballasting techniques as sailing ships - remember large sailing ships were also rivetted iron by then.

As to a few authors not knowing the difference between "in ballast" (adjective) and "Ballast" (noun) i have not noticed it, but I would not be surprised.

Started making the mouldings today. #10 hollow by Atkins and #6 round by me (actually the very 1st one I made).

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Cut the rebates on the tablesaw after dressing by hand . Wooden jack (shop made) and 5 1/2 for edges and new favourite 4 1/2 (Fijian Mahogany handles) for faces.

Made a little scraper to clean up cove

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Mouldings on. Not sure if proportions are right but.....

A little larger than normal but it looks good .

Itl be better if you bleach it to match if your going clear with the finish because that DF which is what it looks like will go more orange with time while the rest is nice and light .

Your chest, & your call, MA - the main thing is that it looks right to you. Meself, I would probably have gone for something very plain, like a straight chamfer, or possibly a quirked bead, but you were itching to use your moulding planes, weren't you?

I take it you have no clues at all on its origins, so no old family photos or anything else to guide you as to what the original base looked like? The nails aren't a lot of help in pinning down when it was made, they give you a pretty wide window from what's ben posted on them above.

Rob (Auscab) you are following this - what's your educated guess as to what sort of moulding might have been typical for the rough era? Trouble is, the maker may have chosen to eschew convention and use some idiosyncratic combination just to personalise it. So for all those reasons, methinks you could justify whatever style of moulding you choose, MA....

Cheers,

Thanks Rob and Ian. Yes, I have used Oregon (DF) and the contrast is stark. Very interested in the bleaching idea. Do I just, literally, use bleach? Guilty as charged as to the moulding planes. I did have the original skirts and yes they just had a chamfer (boring!!). Same height but probably a bit under 3/4" thick and full of borer dust. The chest came from my MIL but don't know if it was a family heirloom or just something gathered over time.

Originally Posted by IanW

Rob (Auscab) you are following this - what's your educated guess as to what sort of moulding might have been typical for the rough era?

They usually had a board around the bottom that could be 1/2 to 3/4" thick and just shaped on top with a chamfer /bevel or or a side bead sometimes. Older ones had Ogee types. There's only so much you can do between the top and side of such a narrow piece down there isn't there.

His chest his call is a good one . Why not improve it .

Rob

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Thanks Rob and Ian. Yes, I have used Oregon (DF) and the contrast is stark. Very interested in the bleaching idea. Do I just, literally, use bleach?

No . That wont work .
To bleach you need Hydrogen peroxide and one of a couple of others . Either Amonia or Caustic soda. Alkaline stuff .
The amonia can be 3% roughly stuff you get at a super market . And can be used to do a measured bleach by adjusting the amount of Peroxide.
If you want full bore turn it snow white almost, like drift wood, use Caustic soda. And the peroxide I use is 50% industrial stuff . Its STRONG ! Diluting that gives control if its needed. Which ever alkaline one I use I put that on first then apply the Peroxide second . It'll fizz and hiss up usually and doing it outside is best normally . I think Ive got a picture of bleaching some DF from last year. Ill see if I can find it .

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) 50% 5L, 20L | Catch.com.au

The Peroxide we used to buy years ago at the local chemist in 500ml bottles. They ordered it in for us .
I now use larger amounts so get 20 lt at a time . It goes off after time but I've had 20LT drums 6 years and it still working for me .

Bleaching a Douglas Fir Miners couch.


It went from this on left to that on right using caustic and Peroxide. .
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Applying the caustic sends it dark and soft. It can go a bit woolly . If you use amonia it wont be as severe with that woolly outcome or bleach it as much. .
That's caustic in front and Peroxide being applied on top halfway down the back.
It gets a bit hot and gets rags very hot and hissing .

Here's me doing it inside. It was mostly turnings and 4 legs . That back is the largest bit.
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Full peroxide.
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That's a chip off the bottom of the leg on the right of leg after the polish job showing the difference up.
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Rob

That looks like it will work! Thanks Rob.

That looks like something you shouldn't try at home!