Thread: Some old woodies

Bob good score regardless of age of course the $$ has to be right.

Hows the fingers??

Ray

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Bob good score regardless of age of course the $$ has to be right.

Yep - I was very happy with the price.

Hows the fingers??

One week to go to get the splints off and hope the tendons have attached.

Bob just going through them again the one you say is double blade appears to have 3 an amazing and interesting plane.

That Marples plane is broken......send it to me, I can fix it for you.

The BB Marples planes (I think) date from the 50s and 60s....so not that old really.

The other names are usually the previous owners, though sometimes they can be smaller plane-makers eg. you might have a Mathieson blade but it'll be in a Griffith body.

What a nice collection......way better than a #55.

Originally Posted by seanz

That Marples plane is broken......send it to me, I can fix it for you.

The BB Marples planes (I think) date from the 50s and 60s....so not that old really.

Thank Seanz, it does have that 50s mechano toy look about it

The other names are usually the previous owners, though sometimes they can be smaller plane-makers eg. you might have a Mathieson blade but it'll be in a Griffith body.

The bodies are all marked Mathieson or a known make. Should the blades also be marked?

What a nice collection......way better than a #55.

Why do you say that?

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Bob just going through them again the one you say is double blade appears to have 3 an amazing and interesting plane.

Maybe you're confused by the shadow of the second blade ?

I'l just been playing with the Mathieson skewy blocks and even though the soles are pretty beat up they work really well.
Is the one with the iron sole original or a has it been added on?
I'm thinking I might re-sole both of them with some brass strap?

The bodies are all marked Mathieson or a known make. Should the blades also be marked?

No, not on planes like that, you won't often see a mark on that type of blade as there's not a lot of metal to hold or retain the stamp.

Not sure about the steel sole, maybe somebody will know. I've seem ones that are obviously add-ons but others are so nice that maybe they are factory jobs.

Better that a #55? The multi-planes ( #45, #55 etc. ) were made to replace matched sets of planes. They take up less space but (apparently) they don't work as well because the blades lack the support that a full wooden body gives.
I wouldn't really know......I have an el-cheapo multi-plane but no moulding plane nor hollows and rounds.....someday.
I've got a few woodies including a few skew rabbet planes, they are the way of the future.

One huge advantage that the old woodies have over the Stanley 45/55 Record 405 etc is the fact that the woodies have a mouth, and the area of the sole on front of the mouth supports the timber being planed while shavings are being made. In a standard set-up multi-plane there is no mouth, and the timber being worked is generally unsupported in front of the blade, which can encourage the timber to split rather than break away cleanly with a smooth shaving.
Of course multi planes have optional bases that have matched blades to overcome this, but they are very expensive, and only come in a limited range of profiles.
Woodies are wonderful when you learn how to use them.
Very nice collection Bob and in great condition too.
Cheers
SG

Originally Posted by seanz

. . . . .
I've got a few woodies including a few skew rabbet planes, they are the way of the future.

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

Woodies are wonderful when you learn how to use them.
Very nice collection Bob and in great condition too.

Thanks for the explanations Fellas - I'm looking forward to working with them.

Hi BobL,
By the look of them you have already cleaned them, but if not, a soft rag & some Metho. will clean them up nicely.
From what I'm told, the other name could be the Sellers Name, & some owners of the Plane would Stamp their Name over the top of the Sellers Name, trying to block it out for some reason.
Regards,
issatree.

Originally Posted by issatree

Hi BobL,
By the look of them you have already cleaned them, but if not, a soft rag & some Metho. will clean them up nicely.

That's what I used and then I rubbed some natural wax onto them, but I have only cleaned 2 of them up so far.

Hi, I just jined this forum because I have a number of old wooden rebate/moulding planes. They are pretty grubby and I haven't cleaned them at all yet.
I will try using methylated spirit and wax but feel something more may be required to get them as clean as those in the pics. Would using a mild abrasive paper detract from their collectability?

Most of them have the name W.J.Hansen stamped on them which I presume is a previous owner.
One has the name Sargent & Co USA and has the number 717 C.

Another has D Mallock & Son Perth, Made in Scotland No 237.

Three have Mathieson & Son Glasgow.

l have had them since 1960 and were old then. It is only my recent retirement that has moved me to restore them and hopefully use them.

Any information would be well received also how can I sharpen them?

Originally Posted by captncruise

Hi, I just jined this forum because I have a number of old wooden rebate/moulding planes. They are pretty grubby and I haven't cleaned them at all yet.
I will try using methylated spirit and wax but feel something more may be required to get them as clean as those in the pics. Would using a mild abrasive paper detract from their collectability?

I used some 000 steel wool dipped in metho to clean mine - be careful not to rub any brand names off.

Any information would be well received also how can I sharpen them?

Yeah- that's something I'd like to know as well.

BobL sharpening is relatively simple provided you have no nicks in the blades themselves, a flat grind on the back should suffice then a leather hone to remove the small burr on the front, I haven't come across many of these in my 30 years of sharpening but I would start like that!, nicks and chips, well you would need a speciality grinding machine, one that does profiles, I have one but it takes a while to set it up correctly, a lovely set of fine planes!

Originally Posted by Dave50

BobL sharpening is relatively simple provided you have no nicks in the blades themselves, a flat grind on the back should suffice then a leather hone to remove the small burr on the front, I haven't come across many of these in my 30 years of sharpening but I would start like that!, nicks and chips, well you would need a speciality grinding machine, one that does profiles, I have one but it takes a while to set it up correctly, a lovely set of fine planes!

Sure - but continual back grinding will change the profile, what about reshaping the curved profile? Do you just wing it?