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Thread: The $1000 Table-Saw
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9th June 2007, 10:48 PM #16
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9th June 2007 10:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th June 2007, 11:58 PM #17
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10th June 2007, 02:43 AM #18
John
Yes, the KS-12K runs off a 10 amp plug.
Incidentally, as I recall (as I have been informed), all machinery rated for 15 amp will run perfectly well off 10 amp. I asked an electrician to rewire my garage for 15 amp and he (kindly) said that I should not waste my money (in other words, leave it 10 amp). If this is correct, you can increase your options.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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10th June 2007, 08:24 AM #19Hewer of wood
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The Leda 10" comes with a 15 amp plug so you'll need a sparky to change that if you're going to hook into a 10 amp circuit.
Cheers, Ern
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10th June 2007, 09:46 AM #20
John,
I've just had a look at Carba-Tec's catalogue to find the KS-12K.
This model has a much better fence arrangement than mine, with very good guide rails.
You will need a blade as this model does not include one as standard.
I do quite a bit of ripping on mine so I have a blade suitable for this. I bought a finer toothed cross-cutting blade for it years ago, but, to be honest I don't use it much, preferring my dropsaw for the job.
This could be because the standard sliding mitre thingie is fairly primitive.
Anyway you might want to have a little think about what you will be mostly using your saw for, and then ask the forum for advice on saw blades.
I'm sure there are plenty of table-saw users out there with evaluations of different blades.
Incidently, aren't Carba Tec Sydney having a discount on their products for the Sydney Wood show next weekend?
Happy shopping
SG.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
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10th June 2007, 10:12 AM #21Hewer of wood
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Sydney had the 10" saw at $849 and otherwise 10% off storewide, but that ended Friday They might still be open to offers.
Shipping to Brisbane might gobble up the difference though. Carbatec Melb quoted me $140 to ship across town; Gregmach quoted around a hundred to ship a contractor saw Bris-Melb. Go figure.Cheers, Ern
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10th June 2007, 01:11 PM #22
Can anyone enlighten us on this ?
Thanks everyone for your input on the subject of the $1000 TS The response to my original question has been terrific and a very educational experience for me.I will be re-reading the posts in here and taking all the advice on board. I am sure many other members will find the information posted here iinvaluable.Reality is no background music.
Cheers John
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10th June 2007, 02:54 PM #23
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10th June 2007, 03:53 PM #24Senior Member
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You don't need an electrician to change no fixed wiring.
Therefore you are quite within your rights to cut of the 15 amp plug and attach a 10 amp plug.
If you will void your warranty by doing so is another question. If you will trip your circuit will depend on how much your saw draws and what else is on that circuit.
I'm neither recommending or not recommending this.
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11th June 2007, 02:15 PM #25
I have run 3HP machines on 10 amp circuits without a problem for many years. You have to remember that we are not running these machines all day everyday. If that were the case then different rules apply.
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11th June 2007, 06:42 PM #26
My 3 h.p. Jet tablesaw runs 0K on a 10-amp outlet, but I had a co-operative sparkie
Rocker
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12th June 2007, 12:47 PM #27
15 Amp motor on 10 Amp circuit is a well-known inflamatory topic in these parts. Many previous threads: pro and con, technical and barbaric. If you put a 15 Amp motor fuse up on the wall it seems to work just fine for "normal" use. My TSC10-HB shipped with no plug. I had an English 13 Amp plug (fuse in plug type) and heavy extension cord spare so I used that. The 13 Amp fuses in the plug couldn't hack starting loads unless you held your mouth right but the motor fuse never batted an eyelid. It is designed to handle brief high loads. In summary, the starting load is probably around 13 Amp.
1st in Woodwork (1961)
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12th June 2007, 01:17 PM #28
There is only one major difference between a 15A circuit and a 10A circuit.
Both use the same circuit breakers (usually 16~20A)
Both use the same cable (usually 2.5mm2)
The difference in them is the number of outlets allowed. There is only one outlet allowed in the case of a 15A circuit, whereas the 10A circuit can have any number (it used to be limited to 15 outlets).
Bottom line is if you only use one appliance on the circuit (i.e. fuse/circuit breaker) you can get away with using a 15A appliance on a 10A outlet.
BTW a 3-hp motor only develops 3-hp under full load. When it is just running or lightly load it will develop, and use, less power.
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12th June 2007, 08:36 PM #29Intermediate Member
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I recently had a sparkie in to upgrade my shed and install a 15amp circuit, he told me that if something comes equiped with a 15 amp plug, it will most likely run OK on the 10 amp circuit, and that instead of cutting off the plug and replacing it with a 10 amp it is better to file down the earth pin to fit the 10amp outlet, because it is a higher rated plug. I know nothin about electricity though, thats why I had a sparkie in the first place
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12th June 2007, 09:33 PM #30
G'day,
I take a simple approach.
If it's 10 amp I plug it into the 10 amp points if it's 15 amp then it gets plugged into the 15 amp plug.
My FIL swears black and blue that I should just file the 15 amp plugs down. He tried to do that on the arc welder hen he wanted to use it and the one 15 amp lead I had at the time wasn't long enough for him to reach what he was welding - I told him like hell he will file it down and he can move the flamin' trailer a bit closer.
For me there must've been a reason things are like they are in the first place, so that's what I go with. (I know nothing about sparky stuff - except it packs a punch )
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