Thread: New 12” general purpose Table saw blade - is my thinking on track?

24T for ripping, 60T or 72T for general work and 96T for fine crosscut and sheet goods. All ATB grind with 5-15 degrees positive rake, don't let anyone talk you in to Triple Chip; they're harder to sharpen, don't leave sharp corners when rebating, are terrible in solid timber, and don't offer any significant benefits over a sharp ATB.

Brands of choice are Leuco, AKE and Dimar.

Plywood is a horrible timber to cut, especially if it is cheap stuff. I am spoilt because I have a scoring blade, but if you don't then you can try the tape or score with a knife first. I have even seen people cut half way through it, flip it then cut from the other side. Someone else suggested zero clearance insert, also a good idea (I have never been motivated to make one cause I am lazy)

I would not use any of those blades for plywood though, I would go for a melamine blade or something with a high bevel angle. Your standard ATB is not the blade for plywood if you want really tidy cuts with no tear out.

Originally Posted by Pearo

I would not use any of those blades for plywood though, I would go for a melamine blade or something with a high bevel angle. Your standard ATB is not the blade for plywood if you want really tidy cuts with no tear out.

Standard 96T ATB, set about 15mm higher than the panel thickness (recommendation from Leitz) works very well in ply, veneer and melamine with no scriber. I've compared it to a Triple Chip melamine blade from Leitz and there was basically zero difference in breakout on the bottom.

I agree with the triple chip, I have used one on a Radial Arm Saw and for cutting none ferrous metals.
Not used so much in table saws.

I'll also add that although you can run a 12" blade, in a smaller saw you might be better off with a 10".
I like flai but that are no longer made. I have an older Japanese blade that I like Kyco or something but not industrial grade.